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05-29-2008, 07:32 AM #1
Dropped the K member & engine? Step inside!
Tonight I begin the process of removing my engine, trans & K member from my 02 WS6 after I developed a knock in the bottom end this past Monday.
I'm going the route of raising the car off the entire assembly in my garage with nothing more than a couple ramps, some heavy duty jack stands and an engine hoist. I've found 2 write ups with pictures showing what needs to be done, but I'm fairly certain that neither of the two are very complete.
So I'm asking for anyone that has done this before to post their advice here! I'll be taking pictures and documenting as much of this as I can so hopefully my experience can help others out as well. So far I haven't really found anything too intimidating so I hope things go smooth.
I'll keep this thread updated with my progress as I go. Goal #1: Have the assembly out and the engine on the stand by the Sunday night!
-Eagle| '02 WS6 M6 | KOOKS/ORY | LC-1 | LOU'S SS | UMI SFCs | BMN LCAs & RELOC's | Hotchkis STB | HSW 150 shot | Lid | 42# Lucas | HPTuner Pro |
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05-29-2008, 08:00 AM #2
http://www.stealthram.com/engineswap.htm
some things you don't have to do, as i was replacing the front suspension at the same time.Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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05-29-2008, 08:12 AM #3
Here are the other two links I also found:
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/Hea...ineRemoval.htm
Thanks mrr! I still have your IM, might bump ya if I get stuck! That cool?
-Eagle
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05-29-2008, 08:29 AM #4
Like you mentioned, that link has the control arms coming off too, I think I'm going to leave that jazz as intact as possible as I just did my suspension not 2 months ago.
Did you have to vent your AC system?
Any suggestions on the steering shaft? Can the airbag fire without the battery connected? I hear that if you spin the steering wheel after disconnecting the shaft the airbag can fire. Any truth to this?
I dont want to pull the M6 before pulling the engine. Can I take them out together, or will I not have access to everything that needs to be disconnected without pulling it first?
Sick build btw! I'm looking to replace the clutch and swap cams. Hopefully the wife approves my budget. All that depends on the amount of damage I need to repair to get back to a solid bottom end though, so we'll see.
Looks like a breeze with a lift. Hopefully its not too much more difficult with a engine hoist!
-Eagle
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05-29-2008, 08:43 AM #5
ok, done bout 30+ of these. Here is what i can name off the top of my head that needs to be unhooked.
radiator support/airbox assy
radiator hoses
fan plugins
main power cable to driver side (underhood) fuse panel
a/c lines to dryer and condensor
the electrical pulgins on top of the passenger side front wheel
the ECM needs to come out
2 plugins inside the driverside kickpanel (go through firewall under ECM)
steering shaft bolt
6 large cradle bolts
4 tranns x-member bolts
exhaust (either from manifolds or where it connects to the catback)
front 4 sway bar bolts
shock tower nuts and bolts
shifter linkage(if auto) or shifter itself (m6)
I think that covers just about all of it. may have missed something
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05-29-2008, 09:03 AM #6
Andrew-
The ECM needs to come out just to get access @ the hole under it, or for another reason? What are the two connectors inside the car for? Do they then need to be pulled through to the engine bay from the hole under the ECM?
I'm also looking for what needs to be done for the line to the clutch slave. Any special tools required to take this off, or will a box end (or crows foot) wrench do the job?
This really doesn't look that bad @ all. I think the hairiest part will be lifting the car off the engine! Ought to make for some great pictures.
-Eagle
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05-29-2008, 11:58 AM #7
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- Orlando, FL
- Posts
- 47
Red- 1998 Camaro Z28
two plug ins are on the passenger side under neath the carpet, not on the drivers side. Pull kickpanel pull carpet back and they are under there
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05-29-2008, 01:15 PM #8
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05-29-2008, 01:28 PM #9
just remove the top mount bolts and leave everything together.
no. i left the AC compressor hanging.
there are two 11mm bolts. one at the rack and one where the two shafts come together under the brake booster. loosen the second one to slide the shaft off the rack. no truth to any of that.
you can take it all out at the same time. just remember the ground wires on the back of the heads.
thanks. on the ground will be a little more fun. getting the car up high enough to roll out the motor is the hard part.
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05-29-2008, 01:30 PM #10
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05-29-2008, 02:10 PM #11
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- Madrid, Iowa
- Age
- 49
- Posts
- 304
red- 02 trans am ws6
If you pull your pcm out underneth it is a rubber grumit with your pcm wires going thru it. take the grumit out and disconnect the wires inside the engine bay tie them up to something so they don't slide back into the car. it saves the b.s. of tearing your kick panels out. and you don't need to remove the a/c like someone else said... let it hang
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05-29-2008, 02:40 PM #12
Awesome, guys! I've seen the grommet under the PCM, my nitrous lines run through it Past that, LET THE GAMES BEGIN TONIGHT!
-Eagle
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05-29-2008, 02:45 PM #13
Here's a question for yall that have seen crankshafts after spinning a rod bearing. My motor has a faint knock, it still runs fine and I didnt drive but maybe 4 miles after I initially heard the noise.
What's my chances of just needing to polish out the affected journals and slap in new bearings? Or am I for sure looking at a replacement crank too?
-Eagle
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05-29-2008, 06:44 PM #14
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Savannah, MO
- Posts
- 23
Black and Red both M6's- 1998 Z28 and 1996 Z28
Keep up with all the good info cause i am about to drop my motor out also. except i will be able to use a lift.
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05-29-2008, 08:49 PM #15
hang the AC up with tie wraps and leave it in, don't dare unhook lines for this
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05-30-2008, 07:41 AM #16
Got through disconnecting a ton of things last night...
*master cyl
*ABS
*front brakes & ABS connectors
*strut tower bolts
*exhaust after the headers
*alternator... to remove the O2 part of the harness that ran behind it for some reason...
*all of the harness on top of the engine
*ECM & 2 interior connectors
*nitrous stuffs (not everyone has to worry about this!)
*ground straps everywhere!
*icantevenrememberwhatallelse...
Anyways... more work tonight. shifter removal... fluids drained... carts positioned and readied for removal on Sat AM!
-Eagle
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05-31-2008, 03:58 PM #17
Sure enough. Dropped the engine and all out fairly easily taking my time, now its out and apart and found one spun bearing on #6. Crank is probably too far F'd up to bother turning it. Slapped the cover back on the car and am off to begin researching wtf to do now.
Needless to say after several late nights of wrenching on the car I'm tired and frustrated, so give me a day or so to rest up and come back with a clear head!
Plenty of pix in the camera, just need to get around to uploading some of them.
For anyone looking to drop the engine on the K member from the bottom of the car in your garage, don't feel intimidated. The job isn't that difficult at all.
-Eagle
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05-31-2008, 08:29 PM #18
sorry to hear that.............now stroke it and make it worth it.
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05-31-2008, 08:32 PM #19
BLING! Wish I could but I only have about $2k budget and I HAVE to get a new clutch (ls7) and wanted to do a cam too...
-Eagle
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06-01-2008, 08:34 AM #20
call your local parts store and see if you can get a crank kit. it'll be a reman crank with new bearings.
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