Double row timing chain?

**Mr. Hyde** · 05-27-2007, 01:06 AM

How many of you guys are running with a double row timing chain? Any horror stories out there about broken original chains? I'm at about 450/475HP and am wondering if it's worth the trouble to replace my chain or not. Is it a worthwhile investment? Is it noisier? I've heard that small modifications need to be done, in addition to the spacing of the oil pump, how 'bout it guys? Anyone have any input? I don't mind spending the $125.00 to buy it, but if it's just another "Oh you GOTTA have it" BS, I'd rather not...on a closing note, those of you that do have it, and it's adjustable, have you obtained any noticable HP? Thanks guys!

**SexyTransAm** · 05-27-2007, 01:13 AM

i cant say that iv done this but alot of ppl that i know and that iv seen on here and other sites go with a ls2 timing chain with high HP

**LS2Tuner** · 05-27-2007, 01:41 AM

Originally Posted by 01LSS6Camaro

How many of you guys are running with a double row timing chain? Any horror stories out there about broken original chains? I'm at about 450/475HP and am wondering if it's worth the trouble to replace my chain or not. Is it a worthwhile investment? Is it noisier? I've heard that small modifications need to be done, in addition to the spacing of the oil pump, how 'bout it guys? Anyone have any input? I don't mind spending the $125.00 to buy it, but if it's just another "Oh you GOTTA have it" BS, I'd rather not...on a closing note, those of you that do have it, and it's adjustable, have you obtained any noticable HP? Thanks guys!

How many miles are you working with.....? If it's 75,000 plus I sure your shit is stretched out. Which means your cam timing is not stable. It all depends on who's gear and chain set you get. Yes there is more noise than than the stock chain but it's not like it turns it into a gear drive. If your pushing that kind of power I would upgrade to a LS2 ported oil pump anyways. Your looking at atleast a 5-10 hp gain just by switching to a true double roller.
Make sure you look at the chainand inspect the rollers they should be one rounded roller not a bushing that is rolled around the pin where you can see a split.
Yes you can also change cam timing but you are VERY generic on what you have now as in your total set-up. There is drawbacks and gains in changing cam timing all depending on what your trying to do.

**danziger** · 05-27-2007, 06:37 AM

I have a RollMaster double with no probs. I hear the LS2 chains are almost as good, tho...

**mrr23** · 05-27-2007, 06:58 AM

i have the crane double row adjustable in my 408. used to have it in the wife's motor. having two chains takes twice as long to stretch.

**Mr. Hyde** · 05-27-2007, 09:39 AM

It's a brand new motor (LS6) and I've got all the bolt ons.SLP LT headers, SLP LM, Factory LS6 manifold, descreened MAF, SLP CAI, Comp cam's XR281HR, with appropriate Comp cam's beehive valve springs, and pushrods. I replaced all these before the LS6 crate motor ever turned over. The reason I'm wondering now about the double roller is I recently read an article about my cam that states that most of the HP is generated above 6200RPM. They recommended that the fuel curve, and rev limiter be changed, all well and good, as I'm not going to tune it until it's broken in. Saying that, I didn't really expect to be turning those RPM's when I put the motor together, but now am thinking that maybe I should have put the stronger chain in before the install. I have heard that the stock chains have been known to break in moderate to high HP engines at higher RPM's. I was thinking of going with either Comp's own double roller, or SLP has one too. Both are adjustable. I was thinking the tuner could install it at tune time, and adjust the timing then.....

**mrr23** · 05-27-2007, 09:43 AM

it's not that easy to adjust the cam. you have to drain the coolant, pull the water pump, balancer, an cover. then adjust it. reinstall parts and refill coolant. here' a pic of the crane one i have.

**Mr. Hyde** · 05-27-2007, 10:21 AM

Nice pic! So...if I went with the chain, and it sounds like I should, if you were to recommend a set it and forget it setting, would you advance it a few degrees, or retard it a few. Does this change the differance when the cam makes it's power? I'd like to lower it a bit down the RPM scale by about 500 RPM's. Prefering not to go above 6300. I don't fully trust the factory connecting rods, as this is how my original LS1 blew a hole through the side of the block, by a broken rod. I know the LS6 has the same rods. My LS1 broke a rod at a simple cold start!

**mrr23** · 05-27-2007, 05:35 PM

most cams have advance ground into the cam to make up for chain stretch. advancing it will bring the power band down. i would say +2* would do the trick. but, you have to look at where the valve events for the cam are at, to make sure you aren't getting into piston to valve clearance issues.

**LS2Tuner** · 05-27-2007, 05:49 PM

Yeah you'll need to rotate that bad boy around with the tell tale degree wheel and see where that IVO ends up after advancing it. We usually only see a 200-300rpm window change on 2* of advance. I would say 4* would be closer to your 500 rpm change your after.
But EVERY gring is different and until you advance it and roll it over to get the real #'s you'll never know. We have found MANY timing sets to be 2.5-3* off from straight up as they are marked.