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Do Cam Install Myself or Pay Shop

This is a discussion on Do Cam Install Myself or Pay Shop within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by BIG D's SS Hell if you want to get it done and over with just pay the ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member MadSeason's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIG D's SS
    Hell if you want to get it done and over with just pay the 350 and go on and have it tuned with your new intake and t/b. But if you want to save some money and take a chance then we can do it.
    yea its only 3 days work, or a learning experience that can save me money now and in the future...; plus if its gona run good i can take it back to chicago where i got it tuned originally and probably score a discount.... i guess drivability without a tune is going to be the real option, my current LSA is 113, still waiting to hear what this one is

  2. #22
    Senior Member MadSeason's Avatar
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    Well I'm about to order this cam

  3. #23
    Story of My Life!! BIG D's SS's Avatar
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    Black, Blue
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    Woo Hoo.

  4. #24
    Senior Member MadSeason's Avatar
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    haha well shit, i gota send a money order, no credit/debit cards

  5. #25
    Evr sena bdgr killa snak? Roastem's Avatar
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    I installed my cam using the "russian roulette" method. I turned it a couple times, and all the lifters stayed up. I even left the pushrods on top of the lifters while they were suspended. Someone else was working in the shop at the time, so I couldn't hear if a lifter fell. I figured if one fell, the pushrod would too, confirming my suspicions. Hell, I would have to take the oil pan off anyway, so why not. I went along each pushrod while it was suspended and tapped on them to see if they moved easily. None did, so I went for it, and I mean quick too.

    Anyway, set a good Saturday aside and you can do it yourself. Get a new front main seal, and new water and timing cover gaskets before you begin. You will catch hell finding those at the local parts store. Oh yeah, you need a BIG DAMN ratchet, or BIG DAMN puller bar, to get that balancer bolt outta there. I think I had to buy a big pulley removal tool also. That was about all the "special" tools I had to get in order to finish the job.

    That car is badass by the way. I always liked the Firehawks. I think the hood and spoiler looked cleaner and less outrageous than the WS6. The WS6 has that "I ain't happy till I am wrapped around a tree at 140 mph" look to it.
    Last edited by Roastem; 03-08-2006 at 11:36 AM.
    Heads 'n Cammed, Moser 12, 3.73's, Weight Reduction, 13" Brembo Kit
    BMR track suspension, full exhaust, the works...
    412whp/394wtq 1/4 mile slip coming soon!
    Gone: '01 Laser Red Cobra 3.73's/Full Bolt-ons

  6. #26
    Senior Member MadSeason's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advise and the comments on the car, click my username and you'll see more info about the car on my website

  7. #27
    Story of My Life!! BIG D's SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadSeason
    haha well shit, i gota send a money order, no credit/debit cards
    WTF

  8. #28
    Evr sena bdgr killa snak? Roastem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIG D's SS
    WTF


    Break out the piggy bank!

  9. #29
    So I put it in her butt.
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    don't you have to take out the damn radiator just to get the cam out?

  10. #30
    Senior Member MadSeason's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roastem


    Break out the piggy bank!
    no biggie was gona use my debit anyway... http://www.flowtechinduction.com/camshaftsqanda.htm is where Ed Curtis hails from, and yes you have to take out the radiator

  11. #31
    Awaiting Activation Liquifire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roastem
    I installed my cam using the "russian roulette" method.
    I think the hood and spoiler looked cleaner and less outrageous than the WS6. The WS6 has that "I ain't happy till I am wrapped around a tree at 140 mph" look to it.
    That is what makes the WS6 kick ass!!!!!!!

  12. #32
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    i dont think its in your best interest to let rob help on the install just kidding go for it man! do it yourself. im sure ive given Rob a few tips on the cam install.... the hardest part is making sure your #1 and #6 are up and its not the exhasut valves. you dont wanna put it in 180 out. that would fuck up alot of things!
    Nino

  13. #33
    Evr sena bdgr killa snak? Roastem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johuckabee
    don't you have to take out the damn radiator just to get the cam out?
    Yep. And it is also good to have someone around to lift the condenser up so you can slide the cam in. You don't have to remove the condenser though, just get it out of the way. Getting that radiator out by yourself is a real moth*rfu*k*r!!!

  14. #34
    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    its not that bad

  15. #35
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    Do you have a place to work on the car?

    Do you own or can borrow the tools you don't have?

    Do you have all the parts you're gonna need?

    Do you have the time?

    Are you patient?

    Do you have the knowledge/skill/ability and reference materials?

    Can you afford to do it all over again if you screw it up?

    Can you afford a new powerplant on the off chance you REALLY screw it up?

    If the answer is "no" to any of the above, paying $350 sounds like a bargain, but that's just my .02

  16. #36
    Member 408WS6's Avatar
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    Current best: 10.60/126.8
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    If you intend on doing any work on the car yourself in the future, you should go ahead and do it yourself just to get the experience.

    But then again, $350 doesn't sound like much when you consider the work involved and what could go wrong.

  17. #37
    Senior Member MadSeason's Avatar
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    I'll be doing it down in atlanta depending on the lsa

  18. #38
    Member keliente's Avatar
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    99 Firebird Formula

    $350 is a pretty good price if that includes valvesprings.

    I'm currently in the middle of a cam swap, it's not bad at all. I read a lot of stories on here and LS1tech where people have so many problems with this and that...truthfully it has been easy so far.

    I had no problem getting the radiator out by myself, it wasn't that bad.

    Also on ls1howto.com they don't go into good detail about letting the oil pan down some. They say 8-10 10mm bolts...no. There are 10mm bolts around the perimiter of the pan, but also 2 13mm bolts holding the bellhousing to the block (at least on a T56), and also two 10mm bolts on the bottom of the pan. I had no idea what those last two were for, I was thinking theres no way these help with keeping it up there...well finally I loosened them and the pan came right down. I also removed the 10mm's holding on the plastic starter cover.

    I don't think I'd recommend this install to someone who wasn't familiar with the way timing works, or more intricate things like valvetrain work...

    On a sidenote Harbor Frieght had a great sale today, three 3 jaw pullers for 9.99. I bought those, they were great for the balancer.

  19. #39
    Senior Member MadSeason's Avatar
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    all i need swapped is the cam, already have the valvesprings from the heads i have

  20. #40
    Member keliente's Avatar
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    99 Firebird Formula

    hmm then $350 does sound like a bit much...

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