desperate need help

**neverlate** · 01-15-2006, 05:28 PM

Installed new ls1 2 weeks ago in my 99 vette. Chased an electrical gremlin until today, finally started but now the oil pump won't prime. This was a brand new engine but has a late 1998 mfr date which means it has been crated at least 7 yrs. does anyone have any suggestions???

**ninobrn99** · 01-15-2006, 05:46 PM

it should have some warranty right? what exactly are you asking? it should be fine unless its rusted, but im sure that stuff was checked before it was installed..who did the install btw?

**neverlate** · 01-15-2006, 08:00 PM

I installed it myself with my son. Engine now has 30-40psi pressure at 1500-2000rpm but tends to fall off at idle. I have Mobil 1 10w30 in it maybe I should switch to regular oil to break in. Wonder if assy lube dried up after sitting and is restricting oil passages?

**hammertime** · 01-16-2006, 05:44 PM

Originally Posted by neverlate

I installed it myself with my son. Engine now has 30-40psi pressure at 1500-2000rpm but tends to fall off at idle. I have Mobil 1 10w30 in it maybe I should switch to regular oil to break in. Wonder if assy lube dried up after sitting and is restricting oil passages?

If you got the engine up to operating temp, I'd venture a guess all that hot oil washed most of the assy lube into the filter. It would be worth disecting the oil filter to see what it looks like. How much pressure are you reading at idle?

**Street Lethal** · 01-16-2006, 05:53 PM

Originally Posted by neverlate

I installed it myself with my son. Engine now has 30-40psi pressure at 1500-2000rpm but tends to fall off at idle. I have Mobil 1 10w30 in it maybe I should switch to regular oil to break in. Wonder if assy lube dried up after sitting and is restricting oil passages?

Do you hear any "chatter" at higher RPM's? You said that you installed it yourself, did you use you're stock oil pressure sensor.... or did it come with a new one?

**neverlate** · 01-16-2006, 07:30 PM

Think I found the culprit when we switched the oil p/u tube and pan the o ring that we did not know had to be on the oil tube prior to insertion was left in position and was more than likely pushed up the hole in the pump. This will cause the pump to suck air and not get a good seal . I guess the easiest way is to get the pump off, fix the o ring and chalk it up to not paying close enough attention. Hopefully this is it as i can't see anything else that we did to this engine. Thanks for the help.oil pressure at idle would drop to 0 and dic would come on low oil pressure.I would shut it off right away.engine sounds fine as long as the pressure stays up

**Street Lethal** · 01-17-2006, 04:10 AM

Hey, it happens. Ninety percent of every engine swap, there's always "something" that gets overlooked. You're diagnosis sounds right.... but had it been the other way around (the higher the RPM, the lower the oil pressure), I'd be pointing elsewhere. Let us know how everything turns out...

Originally Posted by neverlate

Think I found the culprit when we switched the oil p/u tube and pan the o ring that we did not know had to be on the oil tube prior to insertion was left in position and was more than likely pushed up the hole in the pump. This will cause the pump to suck air and not get a good seal . I guess the easiest way is to get the pump off, fix the o ring and chalk it up to not paying close enough attention. Hopefully this is it as i can't see anything else that we did to this engine. Thanks for the help.oil pressure at idle would drop to 0 and dic would come on low oil pressure.I would shut it off right away.engine sounds fine as long as the pressure stays up.

**neverlate** · 01-17-2006, 04:09 PM

I am working on it a little each night as work keeps getting in the way. Should have it done by Sunday.Thanks for all the help everyone. I will post the results when complete. Hopefully I will have one of those smiley faces.

**Raven02ta** · 01-18-2006, 12:28 PM

Originally Posted by neverlate

Think I found the culprit when we switched the oil p/u tube and pan the o ring that we did not know had to be on the oil tube prior to insertion was left in position and was more than likely pushed up the hole in the pump. This will cause the pump to suck air and not get a good seal . I guess the easiest way is to get the pump off, fix the o ring and chalk it up to not paying close enough attention. Hopefully this is it as i can't see anything else that we did to this engine. Thanks for the help.oil pressure at idle would drop to 0 and dic would come on low oil pressure.I would shut it off right away.engine sounds fine as long as the pressure stays up

That happens quite often. Happened to me twice in a row......

**neverlate** · 01-22-2006, 05:44 AM

Just an update I dropped the engine cradle and oil pan removed the p/u tube and out came the o ring in three pieces. installed tube with new o ring and like magic I now have 45 psi at idle imagine that.
Cost : o ring $4.65 @ dealer
Time : around 7 hours working in garage on floor.
Dealer wanted 6.5hrs with a lift @$122.00 per hour.
Now after an alignment and brake flush I can actually start to enjoy the car again. I will post the results of the old engine tear down if I find anything that might be a concern for all of the LS1 owners. I just can't imagine an engine failure at 85k. By the way recieved a letter fronm the dealer I purchased it at and they said since it was 2 days out of warranty @ the time of failure and the fact I did not purchase an extended warranty they were not going to help cover any of my losses. So much for their printed statement
of having an impeccable reputation for service before ,during and after the sale.Just another typical car dealer.

**Street Lethal** · 01-22-2006, 05:56 AM

Originally Posted by neverlate

I dropped the engine cradle and oil pan removed the p/u tube and out came the o ring in three pieces. installed tube with new o ring and like magic I now have 45 psi at idle imagine that.

Good work...

Originally Posted by neverlate

By the way recieved a letter fronm the dealer I purchased it at and they said since it was 2 days out of warranty @ the time of failure and the fact I did not purchase an extended warranty they were not going to help cover any of my losses.

Typical.

**02z28ls1** · 01-22-2006, 08:14 AM

Maybe I'm missing something here-the 99 corvette was 2 days out of warranty? Or the crate motor was?

**neverlate** · 01-22-2006, 07:52 PM

The car was 2 days past the dealer used car warranty. I don't know if I will do anything else to try and get something back from them but I would rather just start to enjoy the car now that it has been completely gone through and all things fixed.

**jersaerocoupes** · 01-23-2006, 02:29 PM

Originally Posted by neverlate

The car was 2 days past the dealer used car warranty. I don't know if I will do anything else to try and get something back from them but I would rather just start to enjoy the car now that it has been completely gone through and all things fixed.

if you purchased a crate engine from a gmc, pont, or chevy dealership there should be a warrenty on the eng. if you have all the paperwork from the purchase and the warrenty time has not expired, it should be covered. the fact that you did the work yourself at home is the glitch.

**neverlate** · 01-23-2006, 07:05 PM

Just to clarify the situation I purchased this car the last week of Oct.2005
the selling dealer did not back the warranty on the entire car. The engine went bad 2 days out of warranty period.The new engine I purchased is absolutely fine now that I fixed the pickup tube o ring that we damaged when we switched the pans. I installed the exhaust tonight and the engine is absolutely quiet. I can't wait to get it on the street.