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09-06-2016, 12:40 PM #1
Chirping/ grinding sound from valve cover
Through the process of elimination I have determined that the sound isn't coming from an exhaust leak or a squeaky belt. From what I've read, I think the sound is coming from a lifted scraping the cam. The sound begins from a cold start and eventually disappears. How detrimental is this to the engine? Should I stop driving until I fix the problem? (New cam and heads waiting to be installed). I haven't noticed any difference in performance, I just don't want to break anything.
2005 Impulse Blue GTO
Kooks Longtube Headers (off-road mids) , SLP Loudmouth II Catback, Vararam OTRCAI, MSD Spark Wires, 238/242 .595, Trickflow 225cc Heads, SLP 25% UD Pulley, Breather, Elite Engineering Catch Can, 3200 TC,Hayden Trans Cooler, P&P TB, Dyno tune by Sunshine Performance
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09-06-2016, 01:45 PM #2
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
STOP!!!!!!!!!
If you wipe a lifter or cam you'll be doing a hell of a lot more than a C'H swap.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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09-06-2016, 03:15 PM #3
will the swap fix this issue? any way I can be sure of the culprit?
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09-06-2016, 04:05 PM #4
The sound is only present from cold start and is gone by the time I reach operating temp. If this helps any...
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09-06-2016, 05:11 PM #5
Is it possible this is piston slap? You have an LS2, so I'm not sure if this issue carried over, but, some LS1s are known to have piston slap during initial start up, and the noise goes away after op temp is reached.
Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter
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09-06-2016, 07:03 PM #6
I think Ive found the problem, and its an exhaust leak. The header bolt farthest forward on the passenger side broke off (during install I guess?) and the gases are escaping past the gasket. I figured this out by letting the car run until the chirping stopped, and sprayed the suspected area with water. The water cooled the gasket enough for it to contract and the chirping began again. I hope I don't sound too stupid, but this solves 2 questions at once. 1. what the hell that noise was 2. why the cabin smells like exhaust when I accelerate. I feel much better to know that nothing is being ground down inside the engine.
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09-06-2016, 11:26 PM #7
Glad you solved it. So just get some new hardware? Or will you need a new gasket, too?
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09-07-2016, 04:25 AM #8
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Chirping/ grinding sound from valve cover
no kidding. Sometimes it's nice to have an easy win.
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09-07-2016, 06:51 PM #9
New heads go on in a little while. I don't really feel up to the task of extracting the broken bolt in my head if I don't have to. New gaskets and bolts when the trickflows go on. And yes, sometimes simplicity is one of life rare gifts.
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09-08-2016, 07:36 AM #10
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Wouldn't either if I had new heads. Glad it was something easy.
MAKE SURE YOU CHECK EVERY HOLE FOR LIQUID. They need to be 100% dry or you'll crack your block.
You may be able to sale your old heads..
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09-09-2016, 05:54 PM #11
please elaborate on your warning. I don't want a cracked block, but I don't know what your referring to.
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09-09-2016, 09:45 PM #12
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Once you pull the heads there is always some coolant that gets into the lower head bolt holes. You will need to dry them by any means.
I hit it with a blast from an air hose, then I cut a bunch of paper towel squares and using one of those pick up tools that grab stuff I put a square on the end and insert in the holes, keep doing it till they are dry. Long q tips help too. I made mine on using those long wooden sticks for cooking kabobs taping q tips to them. I used a ton.
It will take you longer to make sure the holes are clean then it does to do the swap of heads.
Check every head bolt hole. Always!! Don't forget to swap over your coolant temp sensor and plugs onto the new heads.
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