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Camshaft Degree Question

This is a discussion on Camshaft Degree Question within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Does anyone know if it is possible to check a camshaft to make sure that it had been degreed properly ...

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    Member 408WS6's Avatar
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    Camshaft Degree Question

    Does anyone know if it is possible to check a camshaft to make sure that it had been degreed properly without removing the front cover off the engine?

    Is so, how?

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    I do not believe so.
    2008 Trailblazer SS
    Yank PTB3600, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's, 4" intake, E-fans, Magnaflow, Sonnax kit, tranny cooler, tune.
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    531.1 RWHP 481.3 FT/Pounds all motor.

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    No, degreeing a cam involves having pretty much a bare block. At least to my knowledge.

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    Yes, it can be done easily with the manifold off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dyno355
    Yes, it can be done easily with the manifold off.
    Depends on the motor.
    This won't work on the LS1.


    408WS6, are you wanting to check dot-to-dot???

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
    Depends on the motor.
    This won't work on the LS1.
    Even with a long stylus dial indicator down the pushrod hole???

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    That will tell you roughly how the cam is timed. But not in relation to the crank.
    At least I believe that is how that works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
    Depends on the motor.
    This won't work on the LS1.


    408WS6, are you wanting to check dot-to-dot???
    well, that too. but all I need to do for that is pull the front cover off. I would like to stick a degree wheel on there and get more precise. Shops do cam installs without removing the heads, surely they use a degree wheel to check the cam??

    I had a motor built and I am seriously questioning whether the cam was degreed properly. Its a 408 w/ AFR 225 heads LS6 intake (I know, I need a FAST) etc etc. Car only put down 380 rwhp. The low end feels good but fades pretty quick getting closer to 6k rpms. Something is seriously wrong. That combo should put down 500 rwhp or close to it.

    I'm just wondering if the cam is too far advanced or a tooth off or something. It seems like I checked the dot-to-dot before I installed the motor and it looked ok.

    Oh well, it doesn't run that good but it sounds pretty good. Check it out:

    http://media.putfile.com/idle1-18

    http://media.putfile.com/idle2-24

    I'm determined to get to the bottom of this!!!
    Last edited by 408WS6; 06-05-2006 at 08:54 PM.

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    yea, that doesnt sound right.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po
    yea, that doesnt sound right.

    Are you referring to the idle?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
    That will tell you roughly how the cam is timed. But not in relation to the crank.
    At least I believe that is how that works.
    Thats why you use a positive stop down the spark plug hole to set your degree wheel. If your not checking camsahft instalation in relation to the crankshaft then your wasting your time.

    408WS6
    I've degreed cams before that have been gound out of phase up to 7 deg. This means that fitting a cam dot-dot is pot luck. This is more commen with the larger well known cam grinders unfortunately.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dyno355
    Thats why you use a positive stop down the spark plug hole to set your degree wheel. If your not checking camsahft instalation in relation to the crankshaft then your wasting your time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 408WS6
    well, that too. but all I need to do for that is pull the front cover off. I would like to stick a degree wheel on there and get more precise. Shops do cam installs without removing the heads, surely they use a degree wheel to check the cam??

    I had a motor built and I am seriously questioning whether the cam was degreed properly. Its a 408 w/ AFR 225 heads LS6 intake (I know, I need a FAST) etc etc. Car only put down 380 rwhp. The low end feels good but fades pretty quick getting closer to 6k rpms. Something is seriously wrong. That combo should put down 500 rwhp or close to it.

    I'm just wondering if the cam is too far advanced or a tooth off or something. It seems like I checked the dot-to-dot before I installed the motor and it looked ok.

    Oh well, it doesn't run that good but it sounds pretty good. Check it out:

    http://media.putfile.com/idle1-18

    http://media.putfile.com/idle2-24

    I'm determined to get to the bottom of this!!!
    that doesnt sound right.

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    Member 408WS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dyno355
    I've degreed cams before that have been gound out of phase up to 7 deg. This means that fitting a cam dot-dot is pot luck. This is more commen with the larger well known cam grinders unfortunately.
    This is exactly what I am afraid of. Guess its time to go get greasy...

    thanks for the help guys

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    Just listened to it.
    What is your valvetrain set-up???
    What pushrods..length included?
    What lifters?
    What cam?
    What springs?

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    And since I am here....can you get footage of it idling with the hood up??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
    Just listened to it.
    What is your valvetrain set-up???
    What pushrods..length included? 7.400" comp rods, stock rocker arms
    What lifters? Crane hyd rollers
    What cam? Cammotion 244/249 .630" lift 114+4 LSA
    What springs? Comp dual springs w/ titanium retainers
    The heads were milled .030" so I shimmed the rocker arms so that they had about 1/3 to 1/2 turn preload on the lifters, so I'm pretty sure thats ok.

    Give me a minute and I'll get a video......

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    Here is a vid of the engine running w/ the hood up:

    http://media.putfile.com/idle3-82

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    There IS alittle more to the story. Im using a TH400 w/ reverse valve manual body and transbrake (the transbrake is alot of fun ) and a loose 3600 stall converter (no lock-up). I've been told that combo right there zap alot of power, but I didn't think it would be 100 hp!!

    Also, I bought used SVO 42# injectors (I know, bad idea) so I'm thinking about havin them flow tested, or just ditch em and get some new ones. I'm wondering if this isn't the source of my lost power.

    Any ideas on why this motor is missing at least 100 hp let me know, I would greatly appreciate it!!

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    Something doesn't seem to sound right, but I can't put my finger on it.

    Is it running REAL rich?? Backfiring at all??
    What length pushrods?

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