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cam lesson needed..

This is a discussion on cam lesson needed.. within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; i know there are a million posts about "what cam should i get"... but i need help.. (i read some ...

  1. #1
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    cam lesson needed..

    i know there are a million posts about "what cam should i get"... but i need help.. (i read some threads and the sticky...i know nothing about cams, heads, etc)

    first, can someone explain the #s you list like 220/220 115LSA and what they mean briefly?

    second of all, if i was to get a cam, what would fit my needs:

    *Use stock heads
    *100% Reliable
    *gain 40 or so HP

    i have a 2000 z28 M6 with 63k miles on it.
    mods are catback LM1 and soon to have SLP intake lid.. thats all

    so i would need to buy a cam, pushrods, and springs?

    what are some cam suggestions for this and how much would this project run AS AN AVERAGE $ if i was to do it myself?

    thank you in advance.

  2. #2
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    On your ass flashing
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    h-po has a sticky that in the internal that should answer that.
    220 is the duration and the 115 is lobe seperation angle.
    If you don't get headers then I doubt your going to get 40hp out of any cam. Also since you have stock exhaust manifolds the duration has to be longer on the exhaust side to get rid of the exhaust, it will also help torque
    gm hot cam
    slp hot cam
    or something along the lines of a 214/230 cam.

  3. #3
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    so the first number is intake duration, second number is exhaust duration?

    like 200/220 means 200 (units?) intake duration, 220 (units?) exhaust duration?

    ok well.. so what classifies a cam as a "mild" cam... because i dont want a crazy one.. i would get just one that gives a little mroe oomph

    speaking of headers.. thats a good point. what are good headers? kooks?

  4. #4
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    i know there are a million posts about "what cam should i get"... but i need help.. (i read some threads and the sticky...i know nothing about cams, heads, etc)

    first, can someone explain the #s you list like 220/220 115LSA and what they mean briefly?

    second of all, if i was to get a cam, what would fit my needs:

    *Use stock heads
    *100% Reliable
    *gain 40 or so HP

    i have a 2000 z28 M6 with 63k miles on it.
    mods are catback LM1 and soon to have SLP intake lid.. thats all

    so i would need to buy a cam, pushrods, and springs?

    what are some cam suggestions for this and how much would this project run AS AN AVERAGE $ if i was to do it myself?

    thank you in advance.
    Should consider ditching that LS1 intake for a LS6.

    The 220/220 are the duration number. The 115LSA is the Lobe separation Angle.

    Easiest way would be to refer back to the sticky, read and apply those two to the definitions listed there.

    It would fit your numbers. You didn't list any exhaust mod's, and your still on the stock intake. Those are going to seriously work against any power gains the cam install should/would give. I would do exhaust before cam.

    220/220 is a fairly small cam. I personally wouldn't go below 228, but that's MY opinion. Street driving relies solely on your tuners abilities. I wouldn't do any camshaft swap with stock exhaust. Just will not see the gains.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    so the first number is intake duration, second number is exhaust duration?

    like 200/220 means 200 (units?) intake duration, 220 (units?) exhaust duration?

    ok well.. so what classifies a cam as a "mild" cam... because i dont want a crazy one.. i would get just one that gives a little mroe oomph

    speaking of headers.. thats a good point. what are good headers? kooks?
    Mild cam is all personal preference. It can change from one opinion to the next. To me, my 230/236 cam is mild Like said, the tune will decide if the car is drivable on the street.

    Lots of good headers. Kooks being way up there on the list. Maybe check out the External section and check this thread out. The Complete (Hopefully) Header Thread

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    Do headers and y-pipe before the cam. Every one on here can agree with this. Look here and around in other f-body classifieds and if you are patient you will come across a good deal.

    Don't forget with a cam you will need a tune also. Street tunes usually go in the $250 range and a dyno tune around $500.......

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    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    hmm well thanks for the information guys.. hi po you especially know your stuff.

    thanks!

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    1997-2000
    0.472/0.479, 202/210 on 117


    thats quoted from your sticky, so what do the .472/0.479 represent?


    Condition --Wide Separation Angle -----Narrow Separation Angle
    Overlap -------------Decreased -------------- Increased
    Low End Power ------Higher ------------------ Lower
    High End Power ------Lower------------------- Higher
    Detonation Potential- Lower ------------------- Higher
    Intake Events --------Later --------------------Earlier
    Exhaust Events ------Earlier --------------------Later
    Overlap -------------Decreased ----------------Lower
    Manifold Vacuum ------Higher------------------ Lower

    also quoted... shouldnt the overlap for narrow separation be "higher" than "lower"?
    Last edited by mammoth713; 01-11-2010 at 09:57 PM.

  9. #9
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    1997-2000
    0.472/0.479, 202/210 on 117


    thats quoted from your sticky, so what do the .472/0.479 represent?


    Condition --Wide Separation Angle -----Narrow Separation Angle
    Overlap -------------Decreased -------------- Increased
    Low End Power ------Higher ------------------ Lower
    High End Power ------Lower------------------- Higher
    Detonation Potential- Lower ------------------- Higher
    Intake Events --------Later --------------------Earlier
    Exhaust Events ------Earlier --------------------Later
    Overlap -------------Decreased ----------------Lower
    Manifold Vacuum ------Higher------------------ Lower

    also quoted... shouldnt the overlap for narrow separation be "higher" than "lower"?
    The .429/.479 refers to valve lift

    Good catch! Actually, its supposeed to say, INCREASED.

    I would change it now, but I can no longer edit thos threads. Good catch though

  10. #10
    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
    2000 Z28 - A4 - Pewter

    Duration @ 0.050?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    1997-2000
    0.472/0.479, 202/210 on 117


    thats quoted from your sticky, so what do the .472/0.479 represent?


    Condition --Wide Separation Angle -----Narrow Separation Angle
    Overlap -------------Decreased -------------- Increased
    Low End Power ------lower ------------------ higher
    High End Power ------Lower------------------- Higher
    Detonation Potential- Lower ------------------- Higher
    Intake Events --------Later --------------------Earlier
    Exhaust Events ------Earlier --------------------Later
    Overlap -------------Decreased ----------------Lower
    Manifold Vacuum ------Higher------------------ Lower

    also quoted... shouldnt the overlap for narrow separation be "higher" than "lower"?
    Fixed that too. Narrow LSA will hit earlier and harder but will not carry as far. It is why my cam is on a 111LSA.......
    Last edited by SOMbitch; 01-13-2010 at 06:50 AM.

  12. #12
    O U 8 1 2 Spaz's Avatar
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    http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm

    if you got time to read that it's pretty kewl...

    don't forget you're going to need a tune with the new cam...

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post

    *Use stock heads
    *100% Reliable
    *gain 40 or so HP

    i have a 2000 z28 M6 with 63k miles on it.
    mods are catback LM1 and soon to have SLP intake lid.. thats all
    If you need to meet those criteria, and have only a catback and lid, a cam is NOT what you want or need. An LS6 intake, headers with y-pipe (ditch that poor excuse for an exhaust LM), and dyno tune will make the power you want, with stock heads, and be more reliable than a cammed car.

  14. #14
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    If YOU CHOOSE to stick with STOCK exhaust, the Thunder Racing CHEATR cam will net you respectable gains WITHOUT a tune......That's a proven fact. BUT why do that when you can just get PACESETTER LT's, a Texas Speed ORY and a 224R?????? AT least this is a proven combo that a lot of people have STARTED with.......if you want more....research and go from there.....if you like it....keep it.......just my.02

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