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Buying a Cam! Need some advice.... Actually ALOT of it

This is a discussion on Buying a Cam! Need some advice.... Actually ALOT of it within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have decided to commit to it and Cam the car. I have no idea what size cam i want ...

  1. #1
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    2001 Camaro Z28

    Buying a Cam! Need some advice.... Actually ALOT of it

    I have decided to commit to it and Cam the car. I have no idea what size cam i want or need. My car is not a daily driver so gas mileage is no issue, I do however autocross my car quite a bit so I need something with a good low end power range. My car is an 2001 Z28 M6 with 30k miles on it, headers and full exhaust, and LS6 intake and a lid. Those are the only HP related mods. it dynoed at 325hp and 345tq and I would like to end up around 360 hp and 390tq if possible. Also what else would be good to buy when doing this job (new motor mounts, sensors, hardware etc.) And will my car throw any codes with an aftermarket cam install.

    So any suggestions are welcome and money is not an option with this. Im just wanting something with a good low to mid range power band. I also plan on a dyno tune after install

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter

    did you do longtubes for the headers? normally a bolt on m6 with a good tune should be right around 340whp. at any rate with a good cam you will be knocking on 400 whp forget 360. to keep it streetable i'd recommend something in the high 220's and low 230's duration. A tight lsa will give a good chop and keep the torque low and flat.

    Look into the f13 or tv2 both ahve a 112 lsa around.600 lift and are 230/232 or 228/232. Both tuned correctly will drive very good with a proper tune and will make killer power. you can also have a cam custom spec'd for what you want from a sponsor and that way it will be taylored to exactly what you want

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    Yes the headers are long tubes and I have an electric cutout after the Y pipe. And I had my car dynoed after the header install and only made 325hp and 345tq with a mail order tune from Frost.

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    Member Blue28's Avatar
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    Take a look at the EPS 224/230 111lsa, or a TICK 226/234 110+3. I'd also install Poly engine mounts, and a manual belt tensionier like the one from New Era performance.

    PM sent.
    Last edited by Blue28; 02-06-2013 at 03:24 PM.

  5. #5
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Another important question what heads are you using? Stock 241's or have you gotten 243's or 5.3 heads. A buddy of mine was using a Vindicator cam with his 241's and it ran pretty good with a 9" rear.

    Also with the increase of hp mods you're going to need to start investing in a new rear, suspension upgrades (if not already have them) and a quality clutch.


    Other items to include with cam purchase:

    LS6 oil pump (P&P is you want)
    LS2 timing chain.
    Replace Knock Sensors, not needed but you may want to.

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    SMW- I have the stock heads. I have quite a few suspension upgrades, the car has been lowered and has bilsteins all around SFC's LCA's Adjustable panhard bar, and LCA relocations. One of my concerns is the stock 10 bolt rear.... I dont plan on launching the car very hard but should I be worried about blowing out my rear end? And how long will the stock clutch last? the previous owner had it completely replaced where it had seized up from sitting so long, so it only has about 10K miles on it.

  7. #7
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Clutch - you should be ok for a while, what to go to next, well that depends on taste, purpose, & money. A good solid kit is a LS7 clutch kit. I'm using it and it's pretty good up to about 500 lbs tq. Hp rating is not as important as tq rating. Others prefer SPEC III or Monster.

    Rear end - how should I put this.....some guys do a cam/heads and run with no issues while others launch from a red light and blow its guts out under stock power. I want to say it's the luck of the drawl. GM screwed us by putting in this POS 10 bolt rear end. You could run it for awhile or break it 1st launch out Just start a rear fund, you can get one complete for about $2500. Moser, Strange, MidWest Chassis all have good reps. A4's like the 10 bolt, M6's like 9" and both like Dana 60 (hardcore racing).

    Suspension - Since you're lowered have you gotten an adjustable torque arm yet? If no - I recommend one. Being lower changes the pinon angle on the rear and drive shaft. Over time it will wear out and if you add more power it will break.

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