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Best stroker short block option

This is a discussion on Best stroker short block option within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hello fellow power junkies, I'm trying to come to a conclusion on what short block will get me the best ...

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    Best stroker short block option

    Hello fellow power junkies, I'm trying to come to a conclusion on what short block will get me the best gains for my money. The current setup is a stock bottom end ls1 with PRC 225as heads, tsunami v2 cam, ported fast 92 intake mani,36lb injectors and lt 1 7/8 headers with full true dual 3" exhuast. My next step is a short block, so what short block is going to net the most gain using my current setup? I'm looking at building iether a 383 from a spare ls1 block or should I get a ls2 block and do a 408? This will be a N/A car.

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    Why not simply go with an iron 6.0 block?

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    Ls2 block is 100lbs lighter and only cost a couple hundred more. If I planned to go F/I I would go iron block

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    The only reason the weight matters to me is because I'm trying to get this car into the high 6s in the 1/8th N/A, I've already got a tubular k with a arms to lose some weight there that I picked up really cheap as well. To hit that goal every lb matters right now

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    I run a iron block 400" motor, race weight was just over 3800 pounds. Big cam for nitrous use and a converter that wasn't right (still trying to get the right one). With a yank ss4000 it ran 6.8's @ 100-101mph and 10.7 @125-127 showing 13-15% converter slip at the line at 7000 rpm. Tried a ptc 4000 out of my old Ls1 set up and gained 3mph in the 1/8 and hit the 7600 limiter about the 1000' mark at only 122mph so it slipped a lot worse. Motor has not seen nitrous yet so a iron block is plenty capable up getting down in the 6's even with is weight.

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    Those are pretty good times for having converter issues! I'm not completely against the iron block, I actually have a lq4 block sitting but it needs inspected and if usable it will need a lot of machine work. I was really thinking about doing a 383 with the extra ls1 block I have but I can't seem to find a good answer on if I will get much if any gains from it. If I do go with a 6.0 stroker using my current setup what gains could I expect?

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    From all the 383's I've seen I haven't been impressed. Hp numbers are almost the same as a stock stroke Ls1 with the same heads and cam and only gaining minimal tq. I go buy hp per dollar according to my eyes. I got my iron 6.0 for $100 with a bad rod bearing so that's why I used it. Now that I am trying to cut a little weight out I'm thinking the extra money spent on a Ls2 block may have been worth it. Swapping no other part will net you near 100 pounds except this one. And if you was to add up all the chromoly parts you'd have to buy to get 100 pounds saved it would be a no brainer. So in the end the I should have went aluminum. No need to go 408 though, run it as a 402 and leave the meet in the cylinders for future rebuild.

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    Google "02 camaro parts pile" and you'll find my junk.

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    I got all my tubular k and arms from a buddy who parted out his build so I got it for less than half price otherwise I wouldn't of gotten it lol but yea I'm really thinking 402 using ls2 block with my current setup but possibly a more radical cam to untilize the extra cubes. I would like to be in the 500whp range or more with keeping it streetable

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    I went all tubular on our suspension. I weighed each component as it came off the car and compared it to the new tubular one. In some instances, the tubular component was actually heavier or the weight difference was negligible. I think the Burkhart Chassis front bumper support was another item that just did not shave off as much as I had hoped. That being said, it does all add up and a pound less is a pound less going down the track.

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    I plan to weigh everything when I put all my tubular parts on also. I'm planning to keep a full interior in this car also as it will be street driven a lot so that makes it even harder to lose any weight. ehat other ways are people losing weight in these cars? Also with building a 402 short block what kit would be recommended?

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    If you're really wanting to go all out on a LS2 with as much cylinder bore then look into DART sleeves. They cost a pretty penny but it will let you put a serious bore on an aluminum block but keep it from grenading itself.
    In the end you'll probably be cheaper using an iron block and adding an extra shot of nitrous to get to your goals.

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    If I use an ls2 block it will most likely be a 402 if I remeber correctly with a 402 it's stock bore so I won't need to worry about sleeving. I have considered a ls3 block and 427 but I have never looked into pricing and I'm guessing that's a hefty amount more than a 402

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    Sorry I'm a serious fanboy of the iron 6 liter blocks cause of all the options over aluminum.

    With the iron block bore out enough you can run LS3 heads and intake and get even a better cam profile ending with more power and torque. We've already hit on that more boost can be applied to iron blocks over aluminum.

    In all honesty 100lbs difference really isn't that much regarding engine weight. You can make that up like I said with a nitrous shot or weight reduction in other areas.

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    I just really want to keep it N/A and light as possible. I may still end up using an iron block but no matter what build I'll be using my PRC 225 heads. Possibly have them ported but I don't want to switch to anything else head wise. My end goal is to run better times then some of the nitrous guys at my local track with a n/a car. Most of them are running 6.7-7second 1/8th

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I understand. I did mine that way but on a budget.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

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    About how much do you think you had into just your short block?

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    Block - $200
    Forge K1 4" Crank - $850
    DSS Pistons 4.005" $400
    SCAT 6.125" Rods - $ 380
    ARP2000 rod bolts - free
    Rings - $120
    ARP Studs - $220
    Melling 10296 Oil Pump - $130
    LS2 Timing Chain - $80
    Used LS3 Injectors - $180
    FAST 102 Intake - $900
    NW102 TB - $440
    used 243 heads - $400 after rebuild add another $100
    Cam - $375
    Gaskets - $280ish
    Chromemoly pushrods - $ 130
    Lifters LS7 - $95

    Also add in $250 for machine shop to bore to 4.005", check block structure, and blueprint my parts to make sure they all worked together.


    I'm sure I'm missing a little stuff but got most of it.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 04-02-2018 at 01:07 PM.

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    So realistically I would be looking at around 2600-2700 plus another 500 for odds and ends if I used my lq4 block (assuming it's usable) and used my current top end. That's very doable

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    http://www.jensensenginetech.com/machining.pdf
    Here's a price sheet for the machine shop I use. I feel they are very respectable prices and once you start adding up everything you need that 26-2700 is gone pretty quick.

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