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  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Terryville, CT
    Posts
    1

    Navy Blue Metallic
    1999 Camaro SS

    Best Heads/Cam for my application

    Hey guys,

    I'm a proud owner of a 1999 Navy Blue Metallic Camaro SS M6 with some of the usual bolt-on mods. These include:

    TSP Longtube Headers
    TSP True Duals with Dynomax Bullet mufflers
    FAST 92/92 ported intake with 92mm throttle body
    Volant CAI
    Spec Stage 3 Clutch
    Moser 12 Bolt with 4:10 gears

    and a tune among other things. I haven't run it on a dyno yet so I don't have any specific numbers for you guys, just the parts I put into it.

    Lately I've been considering putting a cam and some heads into the car to give it a little more kick, while still being streetable. I know a lot about cars, and I did all of the previous work on the car by myself, but I'm not an expert when it comes to heads and cams. I was wondering what would be a good set of heads and a cam to get the most horsepower possible out of the car while still being able to be a daily driver. I was thinking somewhere around 450 to the rear wheels, but that might be a bit unreasonable..so in that case, just help me out with a heads/cam combo that will get me as close as possible. However, if you think I can squeeze more than 450 out of it, by all means post the better combo.

    Thanks for your help.
    -Matt

  2. #2
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Marylandistan
    Posts
    5,761

    Black
    2001 Trans Am (sold)

    I'd go with a mid 230ish cam and PRC 5.3 or LS6 heads.

  3. #3
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Mar 2008
    Location
    mercersburg pa
    Posts
    6,443

    hugger orange
    2004

    like INMY01TA said, or if you have some money and want to get a package, the trickflow 515hp package will net you around 450rwhp and be very streetable

  4. #4
    Member c5z28's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    8,114

    On your ass flashing
    my highbeams

    So many choices
    230/224
    228R
    F13
    228/232
    230/228 with dyno graph
    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...-do-heads.html
    5.3's with 228r
    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamo...e-doctors.html
    230/224 stalled auto cam only
    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamo...4-a4-dyno.html

    yep, so many choices
    Last edited by c5z28; 05-25-2009 at 09:27 AM.

  5. #5
    Member TACE02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Age
    48
    Posts
    568

    ASC #753
    2002 Collector's Edition

    Never base your mods off of what someone else dyno'd with. Might set yourself up for disappointment. Dyno numbers don't really mean crap except bragging rights, which can be quickly squashed at the track.

    I would suggest if you have the money, look at AFR or Trickflow. These 2 seem to be the best out there, but you will pay for them. Roughly $700-$1000 more than the normal budget build heads. Take note also on flow numbers... a good intake flow number doesn't guarantee a good exhaust flow number, and look at flow numbers throughout the lift range. Will give you a better idea of what kind of power it will give under the curve compared to other heads. Ex. AFR 215cc do not flow as well top end intake wise as some of the other heads, but their exhaust flows much better than most LS6 style P&P stage 2 heads. Or TF 215cc, flow great up top on intake and exhaust. To each his own, but I personally am going with the TFs on my next setup and ditching the LS6 stage 2.5s I currently have.

  6. #6
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    DFW
    Posts
    9,285

    '18 CTS-V
    '13 ZL1

    id go PRC Ls6 stage 2.5 heads and a custom grind cam. sure a cam like the 228r or the Tv2 are very nice, make proven power, etc., but your money would be better well spent going custom cam to meet what your build goals are.

    you already have a solid starting point, so figure out what you want and get the parts that meet your goal. good deals are out there and no need to spend premium $$$ when its not necessary...

    also, you have to realize that with a heavier rear end and gears, that going off what numbers you see on a dyno mean nothing to how the car's manners are on the street or the track, so sure while 450rwhp is possible w/the 12-bolt, anything 420-440rwhp would just be nasty...

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