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Bent Push Rods on LS1 M6 Cars?

This is a discussion on Bent Push Rods on LS1 M6 Cars? within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; What are you guys replacing the bent push rods with? Need ideas on Brands and types of material. Are the ...

  1. #1
    Member Sunset T/A's Avatar
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    Bent Push Rods on LS1 M6 Cars?

    What are you guys replacing the bent push rods with? Need ideas on Brands and types of material. Are the hollow stem LS6 good replacements on a stock
    motor with a possible mild cam upgrade at a later date. Thanks.

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    Member silverz28camaro's Avatar
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    look for some chromemoly push rods, call up crane or comp cams, they will be able to hook you up

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    yeh, got some better pushrods. . .and stop missing shifts, lol. They are all hoolow, oil flows through them

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    Valvetrain stock??

    If so, keep it that way. Replace with GM stock pushrods. Help prevent damage in case of over-rev from a missed shift.
    2008 Trailblazer SS
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    1999 Pontiac Trans Am WS.6 #1747 SOLD
    531.1 RWHP 481.3 FT/Pounds all motor.

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Valvetrain stock??

    If so, keep it that way. Replace with GM stock pushrods. Help prevent damage in case of over-rev from a missed shift.
    Good point

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    i have the hardened ones from texas speed seems to be good 7.400

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    down in it 310stanger's Avatar
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    the benefit of aftermarket pushrods vs stock pushrods on the ls1 and pretty much all factory installed pushrods are the pressed balls on the ends of the pushrods on stock ones, and the tensile strength/diameter being weaker. Basically stock ones can break and or bend do to deflection.

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    right, but luos' point is that if all of your valvetrain is stock and you upgrade pushrods, the next time you miss a shift somthing else will break when the pushrod doesn't give. It's better to bend a pushrod than bend a valve, break a spring, or collapse a lifter

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    I just pulled my valvetrain apart and found that I had bent pushrods. Missed the 3rd to 4th shift a couple times and went to 2nd, that will do it. I got Comp Cams pushrods from Speed Inc to replace the old ones. The stock LS1 pushrods are just too weak, guys with automatics have pulled them out and had bent ones...

    Just need to be more careful in the future
    Last edited by Wesman; 08-24-2007 at 08:58 PM.

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    So how hard is it to replace pushrods? Are there any write ups on this?

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drummer52910 View Post
    So how hard is it to replace pushrods? Are there any write ups on this?
    1. Remove coilpacks.
    2. Remove valvecovers.
    3. Remove rocker arms.
    4. Remove pushrods.
    5. Coat new pushrods in oil.
    6. Install pushrods.
    7. Install rocker arms and torque bolts to 22 ft/pounds.
    8. Install and snug bolts for valvecover.
    9. Install coilpacks.


    Hardest part is the last bolt holding on the coilpack on the passenger side. Once I got it out of there, I never put it back.

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    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    wow, that's easy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post


    Hardest part is the last bolt holding on the coilpack on the passenger side. Once I got it out of there, I never put it back.
    WERD
    I havn't had mine in since I pulled it the first time either, on either side. I'm shocked that GM thought the coils get rowdy enough under the hood to require 5 bolts each anyways

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    Member tyxpx's Avatar
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    What about the ls2 pushrods?...I've never missed 3rd and hit 1st but I have missed 3rd all together and probaly overreved it a little...Think I need to pull mine to have a looky? Any other ways of knowing if they are bent other than pulling them out?

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    Doesnt sound to bad then. Thanks for the help

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    It sounds fairly easy.
    But give yourself 3-4 hours if you haven't done it before.
    And you WILL need a deep socket 10mm and make sure you use a six-sided 8mm to remove the rocker arm studs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Valvetrain stock??

    If so, keep it that way. Replace with GM stock pushrods. Help prevent damage in case of over-rev from a missed shift.
    +1,000,000
    I keep a bag of stock pushrods on hand just in case.

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    Formulatastic yellowv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post

    Hardest part is the last bolt holding on the coilpack on the passenger side. Once I got it out of there, I never put it back.
    A good 10mm gear wrench works great to get in there.

  19. #19
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    1. Remove coilpacks.
    2. Remove valvecovers.
    3. Remove rocker arms.
    4. Remove pushrods.
    5. Coat new pushrods in oil.
    6. Install pushrods.
    7. Install rocker arms and torque bolts to 22 ft/pounds.
    8. Install and snug bolts for valvecover.
    9. Install coilpacks.


    Hardest part is the last bolt holding on the coilpack on the passenger side. Once I got it out of there, I never put it back.
    I actually did mine without even removing the coil packs. But mines a '98, so it has perimeter valve cover bolts, and you don't need to remove the coils to gain access to them.

    I noticed that you left out the part about getting the engine at Top Dead Center before tightening the rocker arm bolts to 22 ft/lbs.

    According to the Haynes manual:

    Rotate crank until #1 piston is at TDC, compression stroke.
    Tighten intake valve rocker arms for cylinders 1,3,4, and 5.
    Tighten exhaust valve rocker ams for cylinders 1,2,7, and 8.
    Rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
    Tighten intake valve rocker arms for cylindes 2,6,7, and 8.
    Tighten exhaust valve rocker arms cylinders 3,4,5, and 6.

    Did you forget to mention that part or is it just unnecessary??

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    I actually did mine without even removing the coil packs. But mines a '98, so it has perimeter valve cover bolts, and you don't need to remove the coils to gain access to them.

    I noticed that you left out the part about getting the engine at Top Dead Center before tightening the rocker arm bolts to 22 ft/lbs.

    According to the Haynes manual:

    Rotate crank until #1 piston is at TDC, compression stroke.
    Tighten intake valve rocker arms for cylinders 1,3,4, and 5.
    Tighten exhaust valve rocker ams for cylinders 1,2,7, and 8.
    Rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
    Tighten intake valve rocker arms for cylindes 2,6,7, and 8.
    Tighten exhaust valve rocker arms cylinders 3,4,5, and 6.

    Did you forget to mention that part or is it just unnecessary??
    I havn't ever bothered to do that. I don't have double springs or anything though. If your springs are really stiff I could see reasoning behind it, but with stock springs I wouldn't consider it necessary. Won't hurt anything though, won't add more than 5 minutes to the job at most. Don't think I'm telling anyone not to do it though. Nobody listen to me!

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