Another $$$$ to performance.
This is a discussion on Another $$$$ to performance. within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Firebirdjones Well the LQ4 is only 364 cubes. Not big enough to support using the cheaper L92 ...
01-05-2011, 08:20 AM #21
01-05-2011, 09:21 AM #22
If and when I do this. I'll find a used LQ4, used cam if i can, and used heads. "maybe" a fast setup. I know all this can be found used for around 3k or less.
Everyone acts like these LQ4s are weak or something. The aluminum LS1 sees 200k and takes a beating the whole time. The LQ4 is iron...I wouldn't worry about dependability as much and it's not like they are expensive to fix.
Sure there are better ways to go about it, but this way is A LOT cheaper and easier. Depending how much power you intend to make.
01-05-2011, 09:32 AM #23
Getting older now and not liking to do things twice leads me down the path of doing it right the first time even if it means spending more money.
You can get away with used short blocks so long as compression checked out okay and it has minimal wear. No way I'd throw a heads and cam on an LS1 with 200,000 miles, that's just asking for trouble.
From my experiences on just about any gasoline combustion V8 engine, when they reach 100,000 miles, they are getting tired and show some wear. Just because it still runs fine and might go another 100,000 without issues probably isn't incentive enough for me to want to throw speed parts at it.
As far as cost,,,,they are in fact expensive to fix. Compare it to the original small block chevy these LS engines were derived from and there is a huge difference in cost. These things still aren't the cheapest engine to work on.
I don't think anyone claims the LS family of engines are weak, but mileage does take a toll. At least you can bore a high mileage LQ cast iron engine, you probably won't be so lucky with an aluminum LS1.
01-05-2011, 09:47 AM #24
Just to add to that for people that aren't aware,,,,finding a good LQ4/LQ9 isn't the cheapest thing to do.
I've been searching for a suitable candidate for a few months now. All the major retails chains that have take outs have plenty of these engines forsale,,,,but they all seem to have 120,000 miles or more on them and they cost anywhere from $1,000 for 180,000 miles or more,,,,or as high as $1,400 for slightly less miles.
Don't know about you guys, but coming from a gen 1 backround with engines a dime a dozen, I'm a bit reluctant to spend a grand or more on an engine that 75% of it's life is already gone. I don't want to do this retro swap with an engine that might have to come back out after a couple of years of driving. Like I said, I don't like to do things twice.
I guess you guys are younger and have more energy than me
01-05-2011, 09:48 AM #25
Plus it helps that i do all the work my self!
01-05-2011, 09:59 AM #26
5.3 engines are a dime a dozen! also a good platform to start with. Just swap to a car intake (LS1 or LS6) throw a nice cam and call it a day. Same parts as an LS1 and the 5.3 will produce only about 10-15 hp less
01-05-2011, 10:02 AM #27
You're more ambitious than I am
I'm a "one and done" kinda guy. Plus I'm doing this retro swap in something that I want to drive 4,000 miles back and forth accross country hauling the family. It has to be rock solid. If there is even the slightest hint that I can't trust it then it won't work for me. Buying an engine that might have to come back out in 2-3 years doesn't qualify in my case.
For a weekend toy that is driven around town,,,,well that's all fine and dandy then.
01-05-2011, 10:04 AM #28
01-05-2011, 10:23 AM #29
To small for me too! Just an option for others... And like you said it can be had in an iron block too
01-05-2011, 10:46 AM #30
I'll agree, definitely not as cheap as it used to be.
The reason I say I'd go used is, it's cheaper, and even brand new built engines have blown up on the dyno. I've seen plenty of those threads.
01-05-2011, 10:48 AM #31
Traded it in for a new duramax. I wouldn't hesitate to mod a 5.3 either. These are damn good engines...5.3, 6.0. etc.
01-05-2011, 10:56 AM #32
I'd rather start with say,,,,,60,000 or even 80,000 miles. Especially since a 6.0 in a truck has probably seen some form of towing. I would probably trust that to go another 80,000 miles without any issues.
I don't plan on modding it more than exhaust, it just has to be something I can trust 1,000's of miles from home with the family in tow.
Last edited by Firebirdjones; 01-05-2011 at 11:00 AM.
01-05-2011, 11:04 AM #33
01-05-2011, 02:00 PM #34
My question is why are you guys worried about the miles, think about this. For one if your like me the block will get flat decked and bored no matter what. If I am to biuld an lq4 I will bore it at least .040 I am more comfortable reworking a used block vs. a new one from gm, because the metal is settled.
The block I will probably use, was WORKED that thing had over 300k on it, and the truck was consistantly over loaded, the owner used it to pull a big ass dump trailer full of asphalt shingles. It was a roofers work truck. I remember personally taking it to the dump one day, don't remember how I got roped into it, I think his roofers all had suspended liscesnces lol any way it weighed in at 20,000 pounds. Yeah its illigel as hell in a 3/4 ton save it. The truck got crashed, thats how I picked it up for 500$. Tore the block down and it looked like it had maybe 100,000 miles. It was unbeleivable. I would measure it to let ya'all know how far out it is, but I am not going to waste my time, I know once it gets, boiled, decked, and punched it will be able to handle what ever I end up buying for it.
01-05-2011, 02:03 PM #35
Also My daily is an 04 yukon, with a 5.3, 135,000. I bought it with over 100,000 just because I knew it would be way cheaper since people are scared of high miles. and I am confident it will run till 300,000.
01-05-2011, 02:18 PM #36
The biggest money issue with the high mileage used stuff is machine work...unless your lucky like me and have the tools (good friends) to do all the machine work for free...
Just having that option will cut the build price by as much as or more than in half
01-05-2011, 02:21 PM #37
These engines are very durable
01-05-2011, 02:30 PM #38
01-05-2011, 03:21 PM #39
So it's either low mile or a new crate for me.
Nothing wrong with rebuilding one at all, in my case it's a matter of,,,,,why?? With low mile engines still out there,,,and also crate engines that are still offered I have no reason to rebuild one.
Now if I were building the typical weekend worrior,,,I wouldn't care so much. That doesn't mean I'd throw speed parts at a 150,000 mile motor however.
Last edited by Firebirdjones; 01-05-2011 at 03:28 PM.
01-05-2011, 03:48 PM #40
I agree that rebuilding one and keeping it a 364 verses the 402/408 is nearly a wash as far as cost. You're into the shortblock anyway for pistons, why not do a crank and rods? Hard to justify the cost of machining the factory crank and factory rods at that point.
I don't recall the combustion chamber size on the 5.3 heads, but I seem to remember they are tight. 59cc maybe??
If so you might have to get fancy with deck height, style of piston used, and head gasket thickness to keep a freindly pump gas compression ratio.
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By Ed Blown Vert in forum Camaro / SSReplies: 5Last Post: 04-01-2009, 06:56 AM
By Ed Blown Vert in forum Camaro / SSReplies: 0Last Post: 10-17-2008, 06:10 PM
By Ed Blown Vert in forum Camaro / SSReplies: 0Last Post: 03-26-2008, 07:10 PM
By Ed Blown Vert in forum Camaro / SSReplies: 0Last Post: 02-11-2008, 10:00 PM