550-600 rwhp, n/a?

**91_RS_LS1** · 03-15-2006, 07:31 PM

Would it be possilbe to hit those numbers with bolt ons, LS6 intake, P&P TB, heads and cam? My current plans are Patriot 6.0L Stage IIIs (with the larger chamber) with a moderate cam, and a STS turbo to get in that range. But, could I do it n/a and no juice and still have daily drivability?

**juiceboxx** · 03-15-2006, 07:36 PM

Wouldnt the n/a mean no turbo?

**keliente** · 03-15-2006, 07:37 PM

I do believe you'd be needing a larger block as well to hit those kind of #'s.

**91_RS_LS1** · 03-15-2006, 07:38 PM

Yeah. I thought that would go without saying.

**91_RS_LS1** · 03-15-2006, 07:38 PM

Crap. I am swaping from a wrecked 4th Gen. I can't afford a bigger block.

**juiceboxx** · 03-15-2006, 07:51 PM

Originally Posted by 91_RS_LS1

Would it be possilbe to hit those numbers with bolt ons, LS6 intake, P&P TB, heads and cam? My current plans are Patriot 6.0L Stage IIIs (with the larger chamber) with a moderate cam, and a STS turbo to get in that range. But, could I do it n/a and no juice and still have daily drivability?

"and a STS turbo" ??

**senicalj4579** · 03-15-2006, 08:02 PM

Originally Posted by 91_RS_LS1

Would it be possilbe to hit those numbers with bolt ons, LS6 intake, P&P TB, heads and cam? My current plans are Patriot 6.0L Stage IIIs (with the larger chamber) with a moderate cam, and a STS turbo to get in that range. But, could I do it n/a and no juice and still have daily drivability?

have you seen the How to Build High Performance Chevy ls1/ls6 v-8 book writen by Will Handzel? chapter 7 shows you how to build a 500+hp na street racer. And you do not need a bigger block

**Mr. Luos** · 03-16-2006, 04:07 AM

Stage III head valves are too big for a stock bore motor.

Cam, stock heads, all the bolt-ons, and the STS could be good for right around 550 if tuned properly.

**Killer_bluebird** · 03-16-2006, 05:14 AM

WOW, Funny how many people started posting but didn't read the question carefully. Quick answer to your question is "More cubes". You are going to need a 383 rotating assembly minimum and some AFR 225 Heads (225's may be a little big for 383) with a fairly aggressive cam to get to 500rwhp. If you get a 402ci LS2 block with 225 heads you an a decent cam you should be around 500-550rwhp. The bigger block will be more streetable because you can use a bigger cam without having the car idle like a funnycar. You are probably better staying with your current plans for that kind of power unless you plan to road course the car, then a bigger cubes set up will be better. My .02

**91_RS_LS1** · 03-16-2006, 06:52 AM

If I had the exrta money, I would opt for the 402. But, since I currently have a L03 (TBI 305cid, 170@4200), I don't really have the money for another block and a donor car. I know the trans in the car won't hold up to even the stock LS1, so I am buying a wrecked LS1 F-body and taking the entire drive train. It will be a while before I can even start with the heads and cam. What heads would be recommended since the Patriot IIIs valves are too big? I am planning on making the car a road course car, so I might just ride with the stock LS1 until I can afford the 402 block and setup and go with that. I've heard that a turboed car isn't easy to handle on road/auto-x courses.

**Killer_bluebird** · 03-16-2006, 08:14 AM

It is not that turbo wouldn't work is more a matter of setup. It is harder to set up because of if you autoX you need to size the turbo for quick spooling, If you road course you have to worry about under hood temperatures and Durability during 20min runs at over 3k sustained rpms figuring on 4 or 5 runs in a typical open track day. I would suggest to stick with the stock engine with boltons which will give you 350rwhp or so and the focus the rest of your money in handling. There are plenty of competitive AutoX and Road course cars that are competitive with 350hp. I would look at the rulebooks and figure out a class that you want to compete in then do you mods accordingly. It will save you a lot of headaches. When you are ready for Heads I think the PP Stage 2 might work better, I do not believe you would have P2V clearance issues if they are not milled depending on the cam specs.

**91_RS_LS1** · 03-16-2006, 12:58 PM

I don't know if I really want to compete. I just like driving road courses. Downside, is, there are none local, and most of my driving is done on back roads. I do know that I want a car that is in the 11-12 second range and one that handles well... I know that may not be very feasable. I think I might just get a good set of heads and a cam and let it be. I've been at the bottom of the bucket (speed-wise) since I got the car.

If I got a bigger cam and the PP Stage II heads and decided to compete in auto-x or road course racing, I should be ok. I think I am going to research some different classes and see what I should shoot for if I do decide to go competitive.

**hammertime** · 03-25-2006, 09:50 AM

A stock LS1 with bolt-ons would be a mid 12 second sleeper in a 2nd gen. Don't make this to hard on yourself. Get a wrecked LS1 car, put the engine and trans in there and get it running first. You are effectively doubling the power your putting to the wheels now. Enjoy it like that before you put a ton of money into it. It's gonna be fast!

Good Luck!

**91_RS_LS1** · 03-25-2006, 10:47 AM

I hadn't really thought about the difference in weight between the 3rd (my cars 3rd, not 2nd...lol) and 4th gens. There is about a 200-400 lbs difference. That will be a couple of tenths of difference in the quater. The car should be pretty fast with the LS1.
Finding the wrecked car is going to be the hard part, especially with a T56 behind it. It will be next summer before I can start doing anything more serious than headers. Thanks. It is gonna be a pain. But worth it.

**RainMan** · 03-25-2006, 11:35 AM

Originally Posted by juiceboxx

Wouldn't the n/a mean no turbo?

Normally Aspirated

**hammertime** · 03-25-2006, 03:29 PM

LOL, I meant 3rd gen!

If you do the free mods as you get it in your car, and try for a low restriction exhaust after the converters you should do fine. I don't know if anyone makes bolt in headers for a 3rd Gen LS1 yet, but no matter which way you go, they probably won't be cheap.

**91_RS_LS1** · 03-25-2006, 03:50 PM

They make them, and there was a guy at thirdgen.org that was making them himself and having them coated for a very good price. But he's not doing it anymore, and I really don't want to see the prices on the manufactured ones. More than I want to spend, probably. If I could fab stuff, I would try, but I have no experience.
I plan to do the free mods as I go. I'm not going to use the stock breather set-up. I am planning on building a custom twin CAI from aluminum. Well, I'm not, but I have a friend that works at a place that does alot of aluminum fabrication. (Come to think of it, I wonder if they could do the headers.) I want to have the intake come off the TB and then split behind the radiator. I am going to relocate the battery to the back of the car. The intake will have a cone K&N filter behind the headlights on either side.

**RainMan** · 03-25-2006, 05:21 PM

Originally Posted by hammertime

LOL, I meant 3rd gen!

If you do the free mods as you get it in your car, and try for a low restriction exhaust after the converters you should do fine. I don't know if anyone makes bolt in headers for a 3rd Gen LS1 yet, but no matter which way you go, they probably won't be cheap.

Try here: http://www.fbodymotorsports.com/inc/sdetail/12167

**91_RS_LS1** · 03-25-2006, 05:24 PM

Yeah.... those look nice, but WOW. That is without y-pipe or anything, and they are shorties. May be the way I have to go. Probably have to have the y-pipe fabbed by a local shop.
But, I really love that yellow IROC.

**Redphoenix1998** · 03-26-2006, 02:43 AM

You sound like you're going the general direction of my camaro project. I have a spare LS1 sitting and waiting to go it, but I don't know, I might stick with the L98 and stroke and bore the crap out of it while running a supercharger. BTW, on stock cubes, it is possible to get almost 500 rwhp n/a with the right H/C and right tuning