2002 z06 Cam

[SShArK>]

I have a good opportunity for getting a 02 z06 cam at a cheap price. I've been wanting a good economical cam and that also puts out good power. My current set up is good and perfect for a cam. Full exhaust and full intake, that way the cam will be able to do its best. Some feedback would be good on the cam if possible. Will be very appricated. Thanks..

[Hurley711]

Better cams out there for the $$$$. From what I understand a Z06 cam is going to shine on the dyno above 4000 rpms, whereas other cams will give you power lower in the RPM band, or across the whole powerband. If you are going to spend the $$$ it takes to install, do it right and get a better cam then the Z06 one.

[Mr. Luos]

Z06 cam is small compared to even smaller aftermarket cams. 15-20 RWHP gain with the LS6 hotcam.

[SShArK>]

I found another cam i might want, can i have some info on it, heres the specs, is it to big for economical use?

Lingenfelter Cam Shaft #098108B
218/313 on 114.
Intake 217Deg, Exhaust 219Deg @114
The Lift is .532 on both intake and exhaust.

would I need a tune after?

[Mr. Luos]

Wouldn't require a tune.
But with ANY cam, to maximize its potential, a tune is needed.

That cam is still pretty small, but slightly more agressive than the Z06 cam.

I would say look for something like 224/224 570/570 114.

[FUTURESTRADER]

You'd be a fool to think you could swap a cam that's worth anyting without a tune.

[danno-SS]

If the price is under a $100, I'd say do it and go bigger later on. With intake, full exhast, LS6 cam, and a tune you should be able to see ~365-375rwhp.

My car went 338.0rwhp/336.8rwtq up from 309.6/328.0, thru the stock exhaust manifolds without a tune.

[Mr. Luos]

You'd be a fool to think you could swap a cam that's worth anyting without a tune.

I gained 41 RWHP WITHOUT tune with my old cam.

[SShArK>]

the reason is, I live kinda in middle of nothing, the desert, to intall the cam wouldnt be a problem but noone tunes here in my city. I would have to drive 3 hours just to get my car tuned. Or buy a programmer.

[todds87ss]

I gained 41 RWHP WITHOUT tune with my old cam.

what was your old cam?

[silverTA2002]

Honestly, if you're going to go through all the labor to swap the cam, you might as well get a decent one.

And, if you're gonna swap the cam, you might as well tune the car. I'd suggest HP tuners, then you can keep tuning as you keep modding. Plus, you can always sell the HP tuners later and recover some of your $$.

[Liquifire]

Honestly, if you're going to go through all the labor to swap the cam, you might as well get a decent one.

And, if you're gonna swap the cam, you might as well tune the car. I'd suggest HP tuners, then you can keep tuning as you keep modding. Plus, you can always sell the HP tuners later and recover some of your $$.

This is true but if you drive your car on a regular basis then take the time to get a professional tune along with a bigger cam than the Z06 cam......this will optimize performance, driveablility, power and gas mileage. It might take a day out of your time but if you drive your car a lot or plan on having this set up for awhile it will be worth it.

[KP1]

One thing is for certain. It does take a bunch of work to do a cam install and you are well advised to make certain you get what you really want the first time. Since it's your daily driver, you probably do not want a cam that kicks in a higher rpms and has driveability issues under normal street conditions. You might want to take a look at the VHP accelerated lift cam offerings by Vinci. They have some sticks with a bunch of torque from 1200 RPMs to 6000 RPMs and that's more than likely where you'll be driving most of the time. As far as the Z06 goes, I've got a dyno graph on a stock box '03 that shows 300 ft lb of torque @ 2200 RPMs with an almost linear rise to 352 ft Lbs @ 5000 rpms and then falling back down to 290 ft lbs @ 6500 rpms. Maximum HP is 363 @ around 6000 rpms. You won't see the same numbers with that cam in your LS1 but it is illustrative of how the cam reacts to increased RPMs. I think the
Z06 heads allow for different timing than the LS1 heads and it produces more torque for that reason. Anyhow, I don't see it as only catching fire @ 4k RPMs according to this graph, but I haven't seen this cam in an LS1. I do see that you have a 2000, so if you have the OEM manifold you do not have the LS6 manifold and you can get some easy HP by getting that and installing it. I have seen some dyno graphs that show 20 RWHP gains with just the LS6 intake. I'd like to see dyno results of a Z06 cam only LS1 if anyone has one thay can post.

[kimchi_xtreme@yahoo.com]

like most people have said it depend on what your long term goals are for your vehicle. It takes quite a bit of work just to swap out the cam in the ls1/ls6. The swap itself is reletively easy but requires that you remove the engine(done by lifting car off the engine). While your at this stage you might as well get a ported oil pump/ port your own/or go aftermarket. Get a better timing chain setup/do rocker swap/ or anything else that is in yoru heart and wallet's boundary. It is much easier to do most of the engine related work while the engine is out of the vehicle.

I am currently doing a build up somewhat like yours. I too am using the z06 cam with ls6 heads, lsx intake manifold, slp headers/y-pipe/high flow cat/loud-mouth exhaust/1.8 rocker arms and a dyno proven products supercharger. I am drive to build an emissions legal, noise legal, safety inspection legal vehicle. If I lived in an area that didn't have emissions laws, noise polution laws, or safety inspections then my build would be completely different. All this is going to be done on a stock block with built bottom end(forged crank,rods,full float forged pistons-all stock dimensions)my end displacement will still be factory 346 cu in.

[mcamp001]

who told you the engine has to be removed to do a cam swap??? Dude, do some research, almost NO ONE removes an engine for a heads/cam swap. This would be like removing the engine to change spark plugs or a water pump, lol

[smokeyburnouts]

i have the LS6 cam in my 02 ws6. i have some other minor bolt-ons and i am pretty impresed w/ it for the money. i got the cam cheap and it was like new (04 w/ less than 10,000 on it) and i have a buddy who did the work for cheap, so i did it. i wanted driveability/reliability so i wasnt concerned w/ anything bigger. im sure there r better cams out there but i like the LS6 alot. i had it tuned after it was done and the car runs really good. it does seem to kick in after about 3500pms but its fun to drive. if u can get a deal and install yourself or get the install cheap, i say go for it if your goals w/ your car are not to build an all-out racer.

[kimchi_xtreme@yahoo.com]

You dont have to but I have found it relatively easy to remove engine from vehicle. I also work at a dealership so I have the luxury of having my own lift. It takes all but maybe an hour or so to unbolt the engine/front end assembly. Not much that really holds it in there. I am not a backyard mechanic so I like to do things a different way. And for your record I have done much research mostly hands on and more than likely have done this alot more than you have.

[KP1]

Well, if you have all of the equipment to raise the car and drop the engine safely, that might be better, but you must understand that most of the people doing this stuff don't have access to dealership or shop lifts, etc.. If you look at some of the pictures some guys post showing the ways they block their cars up to work on them, it will scare the hell out of you. Having said that, you don't have to get the car off the ground to do it the way most forum members do it - swap the cam w/o removing the engine. It generally takes a buddy to help hold the ac condenser out of the way to remove the old cam and slide the new one in, and it is somewhat tedious, but it is effective none the less. If removing the engine were the only way to do it, the aftermarket cam manufacturers would have darn few buyers for their cams. BTW, I'm going do a heads & cam swap in the next few weeks and I have a lift, but I prefer the in-the-car method, so I won't be dropping the engine. To each his own. Don't take offense at it. Most of us appreciate the voice of experience, especially those of us who have been at this kind of thing for 40 years or so. But I never discount what anyone says works for them, I just make my own decision and go the direction I prefer.

[JimK02conv]

going for a Z06 cam, valve springs and new pushrods change on10/10/05,also adding headers,cats,Xpipe. If car doesn't come alive until 3500 rpm. I guess YANK converter will be coming real soon,will be retuned after work is done. will post on ET improvements or lack of. o'ya NOS 100# wet shot just for insurance

[mcamp001]

thats a ton of mods at once, it will feel/sound like a completely different car