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1999 Z28 Build

This is a discussion on 1999 Z28 Build within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Ok so basically I'm looking to build a nice high hp Car. What I have to work with a 1999 ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member FiretoFlames's Avatar
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    1970 Chevelle

    1999 Z28 Build

    Ok so basically I'm looking to build a nice high hp Car.

    What I have to work with a 1999 Camaro RS/Z28 T-Top Car (LS1&T56) with 190k miles and some piston slap

    Basically what I want is a nice DD I'd like to make something reliable and street-able that I can take to the track maybe once a month and put down a decent time.

    I would like 600hp but maybe that's a bit much for dd so maybe 500.

    I'd like to use and rebuild my stock ls1 and t56 but maybe that's not the way to go. for sure i don't want to use any spray. i'd really like to keep the car naturally aspirated but i may use a turbo or sc.

    I have $4k cash to spend but I can add $1k a month.

    What are some idea's for my build and should I start the build now wait till I have more saved up?

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Well welcome to the site first off. Your post is very common and will get a wide range of responses.


    I would suggest first off finding out what Cali will allow you to have. That state is the hardest state to pass inspections/emissions. So you may be shocked in how little they will allow you to mod.


    600hp & still street legal DD.......Not going to happen. To much to do and a LS1 wouldn't last long under that strain. It would take a seriously forged built motor to do so.

    For a good solid DD with some week end fun, I'd recommend:

    Suspension first - LCA's with a relocation kit, Torque Arm removed off the tail cone of the transmission, and even a pan hard bar. Adjustable if you plan on lowering. Good set of springs and shocks (no need for QA1's on a DD, Bilstein's would be almost overkill but will make it ride better then the regular shocks)

    Engine Bolt on's -
    LS6 intake - Better then the LS1 intake, but no where near the price tag of a FAST 102 (<<not needed for a DD)
    Headers - I would recommend these but Calli seems to have a heart attack. You'll have to see what you can use.
    Tune - Frost has a great mail order tune. (If you plan on a cam and heads mod, wait till after for tune. You'll need a full tune.
    Cylinder Heads - Budget build = look for a set of 243's or 799's. Next would be 5.3 truck heads. No budget = something from Advanced Induction.
    Transmission - Gearbox has a stage 2 parts kit. Great upgrade and have a local shop do the work. Next would be a LS7 clutch kit (comes with LS7 flywheel, clutch & pressure plate) good up to mid 500 lbtq
    Rear End - If you make it up above mid 400's start saving for a new rear. 10 bolt isn't worth the cost of a bolt to replace it. For M6 cars they like 9", but also do well with 12bolts' to, I wouldn't recommend a Dana 60 (more for track use). Moser, Strange, Mid West Chassis all have good reps.

    Cams - For a DD look for something in a 228 range.


    Other options - 383 stroker package, 6.0 Liter build (LQ4/9 or LS2). If you want to seriously get into force induction you'll want to look for a LQ4/9 iron blocks. Aluminum can be bored out so much while a the iron blocks can more so, plus handle higher boost.


    Seems a lot, I tried to give a shotgun blast of answers.

  3. #3
    Junior Member FiretoFlames's Avatar
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    So maybe 600hp is too much well then lets stick with closer to 500hp.

    Also I'm no too worried about emissions. Already running long tube headers so yeah.

    Intake I thinking about going with a better aftermarket unit.

    Haven't really decided on heads yet

    Transmission already has an LS7 Clutch but I am planning on building it up

    Rear End Gotta go with a 9"

    Cams also still undecided.

    I'd really like to do an LS1 383, don't really want to switch to an iron block.

    I'm really trying to get ideas for the engine and trans.

    I've pretty much got the suspension and brakes figured out.

  4. #4
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiretoFlames View Post
    So maybe 600hp is too much well then lets stick with closer to 500hp.

    Also I'm no too worried about emissions. Already running long tube headers so yeah.

    Intake I thinking about going with a better aftermarket unit.

    Haven't really decided on heads yet

    Transmission already has an LS7 Clutch but I am planning on building it up

    Rear End Gotta go with a 9"

    Cams also still undecided.

    I'd really like to do an LS1 383, don't really want to switch to an iron block.

    I'm really trying to get ideas for the engine and trans.

    I've pretty much got the suspension and brakes figured out.
    You don't need an iron block for a 383. The 383 uses a 4.0" stroke and the cylinders are honed to 3.905 I believe, which can be achieved on an aluminum block. Another thing 500hp may not be too streetable for a DD on stock cubes however on a 383 I would think it would be. Whether it is streetable is more of an opinion though.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 04-26-2013 at 08:10 AM.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
    (Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
    421 LQ9 14.8:1 on E85 Build/

  5. #5
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    You don't need an iron block for a 383. The 383 uses a 4.0" stroke and the cylinders are honed to 3.905 I believe, which can be achieved on an aluminum block. Another thing 500hp may not be too streetable for a DD on stock cubes however on a 383 I would think it would be. Whether it is streetable is more of an opinion though.
    ^^^
    Agree


    OP - I mention the iron blocks because of your possible future boost aspirations. There are a couple of guys here running Superchargers on a LS1 block running 500+ but they are limited in how much boost can be applied. With an iron block you can almost double the amount of boost, thus gaining more HP.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 04-26-2013 at 08:30 AM.

  6. #6
    LSwut tep98ws6's Avatar
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    Welcome! No matter what you do, don't over look valvetrain kits. Springs will make or break any cammed engine. I learned that the hard way

  7. #7
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    You'll find a lot of advice around here to set the car up to handle the power before you start anything too serious with the engine.

    Some advice I've receieved and was golden:

    Get subframe connectors. 3-points if you can swing the cash. I also picked up some hollow sway bars from Sam Strano and they are awesome. Solid ones will make a bigger difference, but they also add to the vehicle's unsprung weight, so that is a tradeoff.

    My plan is to wait till my rear end breaks before I replace it. I know of some cars using the same rear end pushing 500ish horsepower that have not broke yet. Probably mostly because of driving style/habbits. YMMV.

    Of course, the importance of tires (size and type) cannot be over stressed. Make sure your tires can handle whatever you plan on sending their way. You'll want to have "more tire" before you get "more power." Cars that make 500 hp from the factory have in the neighborhood of 305s (or wider) out back.

    As fun as the roads are to drive in Cali, I'd take that 4K and put it straight into the suspension/chassis. But since you're not concerned about emissions compliance, I'd have to agree that a stroker may be the way to go. Just don't skimp on your valve train: that seems to be a weakness in the LS1, even on stock internals, and especially with the age of your car.
    Last edited by Naaman; 06-23-2013 at 02:44 AM.

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