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So I decided to just rebuild my engine, where do I

This is a discussion on So I decided to just rebuild my engine, where do I within the V6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Yeah, we call those shackles. Ive seen em side loaded and they break loose, but that was loaded with 1000's ...

  1. #41
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    Yeah, we call those shackles. Ive seen em side loaded and they break loose, but that was loaded with 1000's of lbs of schedule 40 12" pipe

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    Your engine in full dress will be over the 425lbs+ mark.. That is why I stress hardened "carrage" bolts.. These bolts should only have threads @ one end..
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    Quote Originally Posted by mroby View Post
    Yeah, we call those shackles. Ive seen em side loaded and they break loose, but that was loaded with 1000's of lbs of schedule 40 12" pipe
    That's why I only use the hardened stainless steel ones..
    Last edited by Smittro; 08-20-2010 at 09:23 AM.

  4. #44
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    yeah, I'm a pipe fitter, I do new construction in chemical/petro plants. I get all kinds of free stuff. Chokers, chain falls, come-a-longs shackles, grinder, port a bands, and a RAINOUT at least once a week!

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    I believe they're 18mm.. Best take one of the bolts with you to the hardware and match it's threads up with long (hardened bolts are a must) "carrage" bolts.. Make sure they're long enough to grab the threads good, and stressing hardened bolts here, or your engine up pull the threads off the bolt and be laying on the floor or your feet like right now..
    So will the engine be fine hanging from the shop crane since I will need one of the bolts to take to the hardware store with me (I realize I'm not to this point with the engine out just trying to get stuff now)?

    Also how long is the chain in your picture, and I'm assuming I should buy the strongest chain available?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebird Phoenix View Post
    So will the engine be fine hanging from the shop crane since I will need one of the bolts to take to the hardware store with me (I realize I'm not to this point with the engine out just trying to get stuff now)?

    Also how long is the chain in your picture, and I'm assuming I should buy the strongest chain available?
    I use about 3-4 ft just to have some extra slack.. Never a good idea to leave it hanging unattended.. You don't need the strongest chain available.. Just good old piece welded link tow chain will be all the chain strength you'll ever need.. The hardware can cut it in any length you'll need..
    Last edited by Smittro; 08-20-2010 at 04:31 PM.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    I use about 3-4 ft just to have some extra slack.. Never a good idea to leave it hanging unattended.. You don't need the strongest chain available.. Just good old piece welded link tow chain will be all the chain strength you'll ever need.. The hardware can cut it in any length you'll need..
    How am I suppose to take the engine out on the crane, and take one of the bolts to the hardware store to get the 4 bolts for the engine stand? Maybe i'm missing something?

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    If you are pulling the transmission out with the engine, after you have it out of the car remove a bolt or two from the transmission and use these to match up bolts at the hardware store. Just pay attention to the difference in thickness between the flange on the transmission and the engine stand mounts.

    You can set the engine and transmission on an old tire or some wooden blocks so as not to have it hanging from the cherry picker. It's easier to separate the transmission while on the ground anyway as it won't be swinging on you. Always good to have an extra set of hands as you come up out of the car... keep an eye out for anything snagging on the wire harnesses and such.

    Hey Smittro: Ever lift an engine old school -- with a fan belt or two?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebird Phoenix View Post
    How am I suppose to take the engine out on the crane, and take one of the bolts to the hardware store to get the 4 bolts for the engine stand? Maybe i'm missing something?
    You'll only be using 3 bolts to hold the 3.4 to the stand.. One of the bolt holes has an alignment collar.. Unless you remove the collar (which I don't recommend).. Or get an extra long bolt with a nut and some washers to put through a non-threaded flange hole... also why I stress "hardened" bolts be used..
    Last edited by Smittro; 08-21-2010 at 06:18 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    If you are pulling the transmission out with the engine, after you have it out of the car remove a bolt or two from the transmission and use these to match up bolts at the hardware store. Just pay attention to the difference in thickness between the flange on the transmission and the engine stand mounts.

    You can set the engine and transmission on an old tire or some wooden blocks so as not to have it hanging from the cherry picker. It's easier to separate the transmission while on the ground anyway as it won't be swinging on you. Always good to have an extra set of hands as you come up out of the car... keep an eye out for anything snagging on the wire harnesses and such.

    Hey Smittro: Ever lift an engine old school -- with a fan belt or two?
    Yeah I already mentioned everything here except the tires.. Not sure tires is a good idea though.. The 3.4L oil filter sticks out where the tire/s would be.. A wood block craddle would work the best imho, then set it on it's oil pan flange (pan on) nice and level and safe..

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    PS. New engine should go on the stand and the old engine can just lay there.. You'll need full access to the stand anyways... This is where Jeffs tires would work and not matter much if the old engine falls over.. Though also not a good thing either way but not as important as not dropping the new motor.. Or you could always buy a second stand..

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    If you need craddle dimentions, I have them.. Takes about 20min or so to build.. Assuming you have a circular saw..

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    Thanks for the help guys so far. I felt like I didn't get much done today.

    Oil drained
    Coolant drained
    Air intake off
    Unhooked misc sensors & labeled them
    Unhooked 2 coolant hoses
    Removed serpentine belt

    Couldn't for the life of me undo the 2 exhaust bolts for each pipe, the one tool I had that actually fit (I think it was 15MM deep socket) couldn't fit in there. May have to go get 15MM deep sockets for my wrenches that have extensions.

    I felt like I was staring at the engine for too long unsure where to go next so I started on things like removing the fenders (decided to just part out the car instead of sell it whole), but had to stop due to social plans. Hopefully I can get more done tomorrow.

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    Nice. You'll make more $$$ parting it out. It just might take a while.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mroby View Post
    Nice. You'll make more $$$ parting it out. It just might take a while.
    I hope so (I have the room to store the parts), but at the same time there is unfortunately some parts that are trashed like the front bumper and hood. Oh well, i'd be stroked if I made my $ back lol, but even if I make this engine "cheaper" is a plus either way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebird Phoenix View Post
    Thanks for the help guys so far. I felt like I didn't get much done today.

    Oil drained
    Coolant drained
    Air intake off
    Unhooked misc sensors & labeled them
    Unhooked 2 coolant hoses
    Removed serpentine belt

    Couldn't for the life of me undo the 2 exhaust bolts for each pipe, the one tool I had that actually fit (I think it was 15MM deep socket) couldn't fit in there. May have to go get 15MM deep sockets for my wrenches that have extensions.

    I felt like I was staring at the engine for too long unsure where to go next so I started on things like removing the fenders (decided to just part out the car instead of sell it whole), but had to stop due to social plans. Hopefully I can get more done tomorrow.
    Squirt the bolts with PB-blaster and let sit (over night) if needed.. Should make breaking them old dry bolts a little easier..

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    So I haven't done anything to the Camaro this week as I started school, and my new job. I will hopefully get a chance Saturday & Sunday to do some work.

    One thing I want to tackle is how do I SLOWLY drain the fuel system? I made a stupid mistake of filling the Camaro up full with gas when I bought it out of habit, and would like to slowly drain the fuel into a gas can so I can't just dump the full amount. Plus I need to know how to do this since I should probably do this on the Firebird too since the fuel in it is old, and could use drained.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebird Phoenix View Post
    So I haven't done anything to the Camaro this week as I started school, and my new job. I will hopefully get a chance Saturday & Sunday to do some work.

    One thing I want to tackle is how do I SLOWLY drain the fuel system? I made a stupid mistake of filling the Camaro up full with gas when I bought it out of habit, and would like to slowly drain the fuel into a gas can so I can't just dump the full amount. Plus I need to know how to do this since I should probably do this on the Firebird too since the fuel in it is old, and could use drained.

    They make a simple pump type siphon that you can get at most parts stores.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebird Phoenix View Post
    So I haven't done anything to the Camaro this week as I started school, and my new job. I will hopefully get a chance Saturday & Sunday to do some work.

    One thing I want to tackle is how do I SLOWLY drain the fuel system? I made a stupid mistake of filling the Camaro up full with gas when I bought it out of habit, and would like to slowly drain the fuel into a gas can so I can't just dump the full amount. Plus I need to know how to do this since I should probably do this on the Firebird too since the fuel in it is old, and could use drained.
    Well, let me tell you Smittro is the go to guy on these things, and he really helped us out. When we purchased our 2000 Firebird, we were going to pull the motor/trans, and install our HP SBC Race Motor in it. Then, we decided to sell the whole car, as it's like "New", with only 40,000 miles since a complete rebuild. The passenger side valve cover leaked, and there is a bracket right in the way of the bottom rear valve cover bolt. He helped me with info on pulling the bracket, then the stages of installing the new valve cover gasket with RTV Sealant. Never leaked again. Then, we noticed that the oil pan gasket has a slight leak at the rear, and again, he gave us the info on how to replace this, as it's more difficult than normal, but possible.

    Now, weíve decided to sell the Motor/Trans, so weíll change the oil pan gasket after we pull the motor. Havenít listed it on this site yet, but at $1,200, itís an absolute steal. Listed it on a couple of other sites a few days ago, and the phone and computer have been going hot and heavy. Too bad we didnít see this post, as you could have upgraded to a much newer motor/trans with much more power, and with the wiring/computer whatever, Smittro could have guided you thru any updates and changes you would have needed to do.

    MAXX


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    Quote Originally Posted by MAXX2 View Post
    Well, let me tell you Smittro is the go to guy on these things, and he really helped us out. When we purchased our 2000 Firebird, we were going to pull the motor/trans, and install our HP SBC Race Motor in it. Then, we decided to sell the whole car, as it's like "New", with only 40,000 miles since a complete rebuild. The passenger side valve cover leaked, and there is a bracket right in the way of the bottom rear valve cover bolt. He helped me with info on pulling the bracket, then the stages of installing the new valve cover gasket with RTV Sealant. Never leaked again. Then, we noticed that the oil pan gasket has a slight leak at the rear, and again, he gave us the info on how to replace this, as it's more difficult than normal, but possible.

    Now, we’ve decided to sell the Motor/Trans, so we’ll change the oil pan gasket after we pull the motor. Haven’t listed it on this site yet, but at $1,200, it’s an absolute steal. Listed it on a couple of other sites a few days ago, and the phone and computer have been going hot and heavy. Too bad we didn’t see this post, as you could have upgraded to a much newer motor/trans with much more power, and with the wiring/computer whatever, Smittro could have guided you thru any updates and changes you would have needed to do.

    MAXX

    WOW! Thank you very much! Just shows that some of us take the little American V6 just as seriously (...and then some lol) as do the v8 guys.. We ALL bleed red under our hoods..
    Last edited by Smittro; 09-07-2010 at 04:45 AM.

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