So I decided to just rebuild my engine, where do I
This is a discussion on So I decided to just rebuild my engine, where do I within the V6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Ok I'm beyond fed up of just watching my Firebird collect dust day after day in my garage up on ...
08-11-2010, 12:03 PM #1
So I decided to just rebuild my engine, where do I
Ok I'm beyond fed up of just watching my Firebird collect dust day after day in my garage up on jack stands. On New Year's Eve the engine blew/stop working due to exact unknown reason. Up to that point it was running like ****, and when I tried to start it that day it made several LOUD back-fire/extreme engine noise and stopped working. I had the idea that since I was getting another car that I would do my dream of eventually swapping a V8 in so over the next couple months I slowly ripped off misc **** on the engine/front, but that's about it. Well as I said I'm sick of letting it sit around, and the cheapest option it looks like to me is to just go ahead and rebuild the engine.
So where do I start? It's a 1995 Firebird 3.4 5-speed. Most of the engine is intact. What tools will I need? I'm ready to take on this project, even though my mechanically level is low (brakes/oil changes/etc etc minor stuff), but want to start it so yeah *shrug* Thanks for reading all of this.
08-11-2010, 01:30 PM #2
Start @ the top and work your way down.. Disconnect and label every connection.. Take pictures from start to finish that will help too.. Once the engine is not connected to anything like hoses, lines, and electrical, you're ready to pull it.. Get started and then when you have (?) you can pm me.. It's not a hard task just tedious.. Once the engine is free then we'll talk about what can be done to make it better.. good luck! I'm on evreyday so I'll see it.. The more you can remove from the engine prior to removel the better..
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08-11-2010, 01:42 PM #3
Various wrenches metric and SAE. Same for socket sets shallow and deep wells, in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2in. drive, with various length extensions.. Torx bits.. Alen keys and various screw drivers. Hammer.. That will get you started..
Last edited by Smittro; 08-11-2010 at 01:44 PM.
08-11-2010, 01:53 PM #4
If you don't have any tools... A good set would be bulk sets found @ sears.. A good starter set would be in the 250-350 piece range.. It will come with everything you need to dig into it for starters..
08-11-2010, 02:21 PM #5
Yepp, your best bet is to pull the motor and find out what the noise was. Have you done a compression test on the engine? Once you remove the oil pan you should be able to determine the culprit, Ie broken rod, worn or scarred crank or bearings, etc etc.
It may be cheaper for ya to find a used motor to swap in the beast.
What did the noise sound like?
J2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....
08-11-2010, 06:48 PM #6
08-11-2010, 07:04 PM #7
Last edited by Smittro; 08-11-2010 at 07:07 PM.
08-12-2010, 03:00 PM #8
So here is a picture of it as of today. I don't even know where to fricking start. Also do I need to buy an engine stand, and what about a cherry picker? So will I be pulling it through the top or would it be easier to drop the whole thing on it's front wheels (I think i've seen a pic of that before)????
08-12-2010, 04:23 PM #9
Remove anything that looks like it will snag or hold the engine back durring the lifting.. To rebuild it you'll need to strip it down anyways so pick a spot and start a'wrenchin'.. Just take your time and don't YANK stuff..
08-12-2010, 04:36 PM #10
08-12-2010, 05:00 PM #11
Here this should help get you going..
3.4L OHV F-body engine removel..(out the top)
Last edited by Smittro; 08-12-2010 at 05:08 PM.
08-12-2010, 05:08 PM #12
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Mansfield, PA
Black & Blue
- '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban
^^ Great info to have. Not a bad idea to invest in a shop manual. As already mentioned, take lots of pictures and label everything. I use sandwich baggies and drop in slips of paper for any small parts, bolts, etc... Don't get impatient with stuff, especially electrical and vacuum connections that have been heat baked. They are brittle.
Was any diagnostic work done before you ripped into things? Does the engine turn over? Did you pull the plugs and take a look at them? Is there water in the oil? Any chance the exhaust was plugged up (bad cats)?
08-12-2010, 07:05 PM #13
Thanks for the above posts (gonna read them here ina sec).
What do you think about this, someone I know offered to do the rebuild for $300 + parts cost....do you think it's worth it or do the experience myself?
08-12-2010, 08:30 PM #14
08-12-2010, 11:52 PM #15
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- 2002 Camaro v6
yeah dude, you're halfway there. Good luck. That's how I learned how to work on cars, out of necessity.
08-13-2010, 06:49 AM #16
Oh well I kinda want to do it myself, and if I have to work on it a little here and there throughout the school semester then why not...I mean it has been sitting like that since January so *shrug*
When I was looking around at things to undo yesterday, one thing I don't see how to disconnect is those fuel lines??? The pressure is already relieved. I'll hopefully go buy a crane and engine stand this weekend.
08-13-2010, 07:51 AM #17
Fuel line disconnection.. Slide the rubber collars back you will then see the exposed metal female ends of the fuel lines. Inside the are round clips with tabs that hold the hard lines in place.. Look closely you will need to compress the tabs inside to release the fuel line from the female ends.. They make a tool, but unless you're doing this a few times over and over there's no reason to purchase the tool.. You can simply take a small flat screwdriver and working around the inside of the female end depress each tab while slightly pulling on the soft line. As each tab gets depressed, (there are 4) the line will begin to come out of the female end, you will see the lip on the male end(hard line) begining to release.. When you get to the last tab inside and depress it the line will free from the connection.. Be carefull not to lose the keeper after the lines are seperated they sometimes like to fall out of the female end..
An even easier way and less technical.. Cut a piece of cereal box about 3 inches by 2 inches.. Then roll the cereal box square around the hard line and slide it into the female connector this will release all the clips @ the same time and the line will pull right out with a little wiggling..
Last edited by Smittro; 08-13-2010 at 08:00 AM.
08-13-2010, 08:05 AM #18
Last edited by Smittro; 08-13-2010 at 08:07 AM.
08-13-2010, 08:12 AM #19
Also if the builder is'nt familier with certain tecniques required for a 60* v6 build there will be problems durring/after the build..
Last edited by Smittro; 08-13-2010 at 08:17 AM.
08-13-2010, 11:28 AM #20
I will give you the tech.. You will be a master..
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