So I decided to just rebuild my engine, where do I

**Firebird Phoenix** · 08-11-2010, 12:03 PM

Ok I'm beyond fed up of just watching my Firebird collect dust day after day in my garage up on jack stands. On New Year's Eve the engine blew/stop working due to exact unknown reason. Up to that point it was running like ****, and when I tried to start it that day it made several LOUD back-fire/extreme engine noise and stopped working. I had the idea that since I was getting another car that I would do my dream of eventually swapping a V8 in so over the next couple months I slowly ripped off misc **** on the engine/front, but that's about it. Well as I said I'm sick of letting it sit around, and the cheapest option it looks like to me is to just go ahead and rebuild the engine.

So where do I start? It's a 1995 Firebird 3.4 5-speed. Most of the engine is intact. What tools will I need? I'm ready to take on this project, even though my mechanically level is low (brakes/oil changes/etc etc minor stuff), but want to start it so yeah *shrug* Thanks for reading all of this.

**Smittro** · 08-11-2010, 01:30 PM

Start @ the top and work your way down.. Disconnect and label every connection.. Take pictures from start to finish that will help too.. Once the engine is not connected to anything like hoses, lines, and electrical, you're ready to pull it.. Get started and then when you have (?) you can pm me.. It's not a hard task just tedious.. Once the engine is free then we'll talk about what can be done to make it better.. good luck! I'm on evreyday so I'll see it.. The more you can remove from the engine prior to removel the better..

**Smittro** · 08-11-2010, 01:42 PM

Tools:

Various wrenches metric and SAE. Same for socket sets shallow and deep wells, in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2in. drive, with various length extensions.. Torx bits.. Alen keys and various screw drivers. Hammer.. That will get you started..

**Smittro** · 08-11-2010, 01:53 PM

If you don't have any tools... A good set would be bulk sets found @ sears.. A good starter set would be in the 250-350 piece range.. It will come with everything you need to dig into it for starters..

**sunsetorangess** · 08-11-2010, 02:21 PM

Yepp, your best bet is to pull the motor and find out what the noise was. Have you done a compression test on the engine? Once you remove the oil pan you should be able to determine the culprit, Ie broken rod, worn or scarred crank or bearings, etc etc.
It may be cheaper for ya to find a used motor to swap in the beast.
What did the noise sound like?
J

**Firebird Phoenix** · 08-11-2010, 06:48 PM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Tools:

Various wrenches metric and SAE. Same for socket sets shallow and deep wells, in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2in. drive, with various length extensions.. Torx bits.. Alen keys and various screw drivers. Hammer.. That will get you started..

Thanks Smittro, I don't start school for another week and a 1/2 so I think I'm gonna start hitting it hard. I have a decent set of sockets/wrenches so I should hopefully be ok. I think I'll ask most of my help here (asked over at firebirdv6 too) as you seem really knowledgeable Smittro. I'll try to get a pic tomrorow of the current condition. I unfortunately unplugged/remove a lot of shit as I said in my original post wildly with some friends so I well start labeling stuff I unplug. Last time I worked on it I was having a HELLA time remove the back right bolt on the intake manifold, and STUPIDLY yanked up on the intake in anger so the bolt is bent..so can the engine be removed with the intake on still as it's hard to get that bolt out with the cowl.

Originally Posted by sunsetorangess

Yepp, your best bet is to pull the motor and find out what the noise was. Have you done a compression test on the engine? Once you remove the oil pan you should be able to determine the culprit, Ie broken rod, worn or scarred crank or bearings, etc etc.
It may be cheaper for ya to find a used motor to swap in the beast.
What did the noise sound like?
J

No I haven't done a compression test, and how do I do that? I'll probably drain the oil and take off the pan tomorrow to see if I messed up a rod or not. I'm now really hoping it was something simple that caused it to stop working and I just wrote it off as "blown" lol.

**Smittro** · 08-11-2010, 07:04 PM

Originally Posted by Firebird Phoenix

Thanks Smittro, I don't start school for another week and a 1/2 so I think I'm gonna start hitting it hard. I have a decent set of sockets/wrenches so I should hopefully be ok. I think I'll ask most of my help here (asked over at firebirdv6 too) as you seem really knowledgeable Smittro. I'll try to get a pic tomrorow of the current condition. I unfortunately unplugged/remove a lot of shit as I said in my original post wildly with some friends so I well start labeling stuff I unplug. Last time I worked on it I was having a HELLA time remove the back right bolt on the intake manifold, and STUPIDLY yanked up on the intake in anger so the bolt is bent..so can the engine be removed with the intake on still as it's hard to get that bolt out with the cowl.

No I haven't done a compression test, and how do I do that? I'll probably drain the oil and take off the pan tomorrow to see if I messed up a rod or not. I'm now really hoping it was something simple that caused it to stop working and I just wrote it off as "blown" lol.

60* v6's are kinda my thing (in case you have'nt noticed

) so label what you got left and I can help you get the rest back together.. The upper intake being off will aid quite a bit if you're pulling it from the top tho. Yes it's a bish but what can ya do we did'nt design them lol, some guy whom did'nt have to work on it did

.. Just be prepaired to bleed..

My pm's and the v6 section are linked to my e-mail so I'll get your (?) shortly after you post.. Best way to tell if it spun a bearing is to look @ the con rods where they ride on the crank and to "wiggle" them each.. If it's real bad you'll see it right away.. I have all the specs for you motor too so don't sweat it.. Good luck..

**Firebird Phoenix** · 08-12-2010, 03:00 PM

So here is a picture of it as of today. I don't even know where to fricking start. Also do I need to buy an engine stand, and what about a cherry picker? So will I be pulling it through the top or would it be easier to drop the whole thing on it's front wheels (I think i've seen a pic of that before)????

**Smittro** · 08-12-2010, 04:23 PM

Originally Posted by Firebird Phoenix

So here is a picture of it as of today. I don't even know where to fricking start. Also do I need to buy an engine stand, and what about a cherry picker? So will I be pulling it through the top or would it be easier to drop the whole thing on it's front wheels (I think i've seen a pic of that before)????

You've actually got quite a bit done from what I can see there. I would get an engine stand for sure and you may be able to find a place to rent a picker.. Or you can just buy one. Both depending on whom makes it will be relatively cheap.. If you're not dropping the trany I'd say go out the top since you have a lot of stuff removed already.. Plus the 3.4 ohv is a short/tiny motor compared to the LS1/LT1/3800-II..

Starting point...

Remove anything that looks like it will snag or hold the engine back durring the lifting.. To rebuild it you'll need to strip it down anyways so pick a spot and start a'wrenchin'.. Just take your time and don't YANK stuff..

**Smittro** · 08-12-2010, 04:36 PM

If you do deside to drop it out the bottom this is about what you'll be looking/needing to do.. Spooky huh?lol

**Smittro** · 08-12-2010, 05:00 PM

Here this should help get you going..

3.4L OHV F-body engine removel..(out the top)

**pajeff02** · 08-12-2010, 05:08 PM

^^ Great info to have. Not a bad idea to invest in a shop manual. As already mentioned, take lots of pictures and label everything. I use sandwich baggies and drop in slips of paper for any small parts, bolts, etc... Don't get impatient with stuff, especially electrical and vacuum connections that have been heat baked. They are brittle.

Was any diagnostic work done before you ripped into things? Does the engine turn over? Did you pull the plugs and take a look at them? Is there water in the oil? Any chance the exhaust was plugged up (bad cats)?

**Firebird Phoenix** · 08-12-2010, 07:05 PM

Thanks for the above posts (gonna read them here ina sec).

What do you think about this, someone I know offered to do the rebuild for $300 + parts cost....do you think it's worth it or do the experience myself?

**Smittro** · 08-12-2010, 08:30 PM

Originally Posted by Firebird Phoenix

Thanks for the above posts (gonna read them here ina sec).

What do you think about this, someone I know offered to do the rebuild for $300 + parts cost....do you think it's worth it or do the experience myself?

That's a hell of a price.. That's a tough one though. Maybe have them build it and you go and watch step by step.. Tough call fo sure.. But there's nothing like building it youself..

**mroby** · 08-12-2010, 11:52 PM

yeah dude, you're halfway there. Good luck. That's how I learned how to work on cars, out of necessity.

**Firebird Phoenix** · 08-13-2010, 06:49 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

That's a hell of a price.. That's a tough one though. Maybe have them build it and you go and watch step by step.. Tough call fo sure.. But there's nothing like building it youself..

Looks like the guy is gonna back out after hearing all fact it's a "wiring mess" as he put it and not carbed lol.

Oh well I kinda want to do it myself, and if I have to work on it a little here and there throughout the school semester then why not...I mean it has been sitting like that since January so *shrug*

When I was looking around at things to undo yesterday, one thing I don't see how to disconnect is those fuel lines??? The pressure is already relieved. I'll hopefully go buy a crane and engine stand this weekend.

**Smittro** · 08-13-2010, 07:51 AM

Fuel line disconnection.. Slide the rubber collars back you will then see the exposed metal female ends of the fuel lines. Inside the are round clips with tabs that hold the hard lines in place.. Look closely you will need to compress the tabs inside to release the fuel line from the female ends.. They make a tool, but unless you're doing this a few times over and over there's no reason to purchase the tool.. You can simply take a small flat screwdriver and working around the inside of the female end depress each tab while slightly pulling on the soft line. As each tab gets depressed, (there are 4) the line will begin to come out of the female end, you will see the lip on the male end(hard line) begining to release.. When you get to the last tab inside and depress it the line will free from the connection.. Be carefull not to lose the keeper after the lines are seperated they sometimes like to fall out of the female end..

An even easier way and less technical.. Cut a piece of cereal box about 3 inches by 2 inches.. Then roll the cereal box square around the hard line and slide it into the female connector this will release all the clips @ the same time and the line will pull right out with a little wiggling..

**Smittro** · 08-13-2010, 08:05 AM

Originally Posted by Firebird Phoenix

Looks like the guy is gonna back out after hearing all fact it's a "wiring mess" as he put it and not carbed lol.

Oh well I kinda want to do it myself, and if I have to work on it a little here and there throughout the school semester then why not...I mean it has been sitting like that since January so *shrug*

When I was looking around at things to undo yesterday, one thing I don't see how to disconnect is those fuel lines??? The pressure is already relieved. I'll hopefully go buy a crane and engine stand this weekend.

Well the only way it would be a mess is if someone got in there and just started cutting and not labling the connections.. Every harness plug has it's place and will only fit in the socket they were intended for.. Sounds like you're prolly better off doing the job yourself in my oppinion.. The idea here is to keep it plug and play. So that when you're finished reinstalling the engine and bolting everthing back on it, it's only a matter of pluging it back in..