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Thread: Removing 3.8 K-member
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08-14-2009, 11:00 PM #1
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2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
Removing 3.8 K-member
Ok so i bottom out my car on a curb, crushed the k-member, and fucking up the oil pan. today i worked on taking it apart, i got the tie ends takin off, and the lower control arms loose.
we ran into a problem with the motor mounts though...looks like we can leave them attached to the motor, if we take out the one long bolt hold each to the k-member. but on the pass side, the A/C compressor is in the way.
just wondering if anyone has done this, and if they have any advice.
I'm hoping to leave most of the suspension intact if possible...so far it looks like i can do it with pulling the rotor, spindle, UCA or strut
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08-14-2009, 11:12 PM #2
Looks like you'll have to remove the A/C compressor...
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08-14-2009, 11:35 PM #3
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2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
yeah, i figured that...its just got 2 bolts...that i know off, looks like i can just unbolt it and swing it out of the way.
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08-14-2009, 11:38 PM #4
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08-14-2009, 11:42 PM #5
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2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
will do...I have a chilton.....somewhere, lol
its just pissing me off that a lot of these bolts look the same...im hoping i can get them back in the right places
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08-14-2009, 11:44 PM #6
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2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
oh an another thing, i have my front end up on jack stands...one on each sub frame...then i have a jack under the bullhousing, supporting the motor and tranny since im about to take the motor mounts loose, now ill need another jack to support the k-member while i lower it out...i dunno where the fuck im gonna get, lol
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08-14-2009, 11:55 PM #7
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08-14-2009, 11:56 PM #8
China mart!! lol just be carefull that's an all iron motor over your head !! ...And another heads up,, if you have them jack stands where I think you do KEEP AN EYE ON THEM, they'll have a tendancy to walk along the sub frame that curves up twards the fire wall, if you get yanking on things too hard under there..
Last edited by Smittro; 08-15-2009 at 12:02 AM.
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08-15-2009, 09:26 AM #9
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2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
the tops of the jack stands are U shaped. one side on the U goes up into one of the holes down there, the other side side flat against it so it wont walk around
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08-15-2009, 11:50 AM #10
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08-15-2009, 08:35 PM #11
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2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
yeah...ive been kinda scared under there, since ive never done this...i dunno whats gonna happen each time i pull a bolt...but i figure all the weight bearing ones wont slide out until i get the motor jacked up
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08-18-2009, 03:39 PM #12
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always dirty- 2013 Ram 2014 Caddy ATS
Some masking tape and a marker will help with putting the bolts back in the right spot. For some extra insurance a steel pipe with some chain holding the engine up is an idea, unless you already have a strut tower brace.
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08-18-2009, 04:09 PM #13
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2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
yeah i have a strut tower brace...i think were gonna loop some cable or chain around that, and up underneath the intake
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08-30-2009, 05:48 AM #14
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Black- 1990 Firebird
It's easier to pull the entire cradle out the bottom, but if you want to leave the motor in the car, you will need a brace that goes to the strut towers to keep the engine in place.
Just did this the weekend before last (3.4, but it's the same process as the LSx and 3800)...
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08-31-2009, 02:05 PM #15
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08-31-2009, 02:16 PM #16
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Black- 1990 Firebird
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08-31-2009, 02:20 PM #17
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11-03-2009, 08:14 AM #18
You get that thing back together yet Mr. Bond?
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11-03-2009, 10:21 AM #19
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2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
fuck you, lol
well my dad wasnt helping me, and being 75 miles away, i have no time with school and work to go work on it.
So i took it to our body shop guy, my dad said hell pay, well the guy threw out his back pushing it into his shop, and has been laid up since then...as of 2 weeks ago, it hadnt been touched.
mind you this guy is retired and just works on cars for his friends and family
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11-03-2009, 10:25 AM #20
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