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need help!! please

This is a discussion on need help!! please within the V6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; ok. so connecting rod snapped in my 3.4l camaro many months back. well now with my money saved i ordered ...

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    need help!! please

    ok. so connecting rod snapped in my 3.4l camaro many months back. well now with my money saved i ordered my parts coming in tomorow or the next day hopefully. my new connecting rod is here already. im just re-ringing it NOT ordering new pistons. i have a chiltons book for my car but it was no help on these points.

    point one; (more immediate) i need a way to remove the piston pin and take the old broken rod off and a way to reinstall the piston pin with the new rod on there.. and the chiltons book didn't help. any ideas? the goal is to not break anything lol. im hoping for some step by steps please..

    Point two;(less immediate but in teh near future) when i was removing the 3.4l i thought i was replacing with a new bigger v6. but after research and removing the motor i realized a rebuild would be better. wat i din't do was take pictures or notes on all the vaccum lines and stuff on the motor and the vaccum stuff on the top of my SFI system.. i know rookie mistake. lets just say that will never happen again. so if i could get pictures or descriptions it would help immensly..

    Thanks for bearing with me i know its a long post but hey i need some help from some of you with more experience. and since im 18 that doesn't take much. you guys are great thats y this is the only forum i belong to. and with this rebuild im sure these aren't teh last questions i'll have. thans again guys

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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    The wrist pins are pressed in by a machine press. You can't remove them yourself with out the right tools. You can try having it pressed out, but the piston may not survive..
    Your best bet is replacing the piston too. Did you replace the crank too? If yo threw a rod the old crank will be junk too.. Don't forget that the oil pump may have ingested metal fragments and spread them through out the engine aswell. Meaning a complete rebuild will be in order. If you don't get all the little metal pieces out of the motor it will just self destruct again with your new build.. IMHO I'd take the money you saved up and purchase an engine you can hear running. Then freshen it up.. Good Lock..
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    Sorry can't help ya on the VAC lines.. Always mark and/or take pics.. All the time saved being too quick during the tear down, will now bite you in the ars. Sorry not being a dick, just a fact.. BUT when you do finally get it ironed out you should have a healthy if not complete understanding of the VAC system your engine uses..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    The wrist pins are pressed in by a machine press. You can't remove them yourself with out the right tools. You can try having it pressed out, but the piston may not survive..
    Your best bet is replacing the piston too. Did you replace the crank too? If yo threw a rod the old crank will be junk too.. Don't forget that the oil pump may have ingested metal fragments and spread them through out the engine aswell. Meaning a complete rebuild will be in order. If you don't get all the little metal pieces out of the motor it will just self destruct again with your new build.. IMHO I'd take the money you saved up and purchase an engine you can hear running. Then freshen it up.. Good Lock..
    shit.. well my kit is already here along with my connecting rod... i just oredered a rering kit with gaskets and stuff. so i guess i gotta just have the piston pin pressed out and hope the piston survives.. i did have the crank checked and the machine shop said it was fine.. i have taken the engine completely apart and cleaned cleaned cleaned though so i should be good on the metal shard self destruction bit. do i need to clean my oil pump out? if so how would you suggest? and when im getting it all back together do i need to prime this pump or should it pick it up on its own?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Sorry can't help ya on the VAC lines.. Always mark and/or take pics.. All the time saved being too quick during the tear down, will now bite you in the ars. Sorry not being a dick, just a fact.. BUT when you do finally get it ironed out you should have a healthy if not complete understanding of the VAC system your engine uses..
    o and i don't really have the money anymore to grab a new engine... so i guess its shoot and hope its a hit with the rebuild.. and i understand your just trying to help and your right its coming back to bite my ass. and any sugggestions on places to start looking or reading to help my understand and complete my VAC system?

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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalinejunkie View Post
    shit.. well my kit is already here along with my connecting rod... i just oredered a rering kit with gaskets and stuff. so i guess i gotta just have the piston pin pressed out and hope the piston survives.. i did have the crank checked and the machine shop said it was fine.. i have taken the engine completely apart and cleaned cleaned cleaned though so i should be good on the metal shard self destruction bit. do i need to clean my oil pump out? if so how would you suggest? and when im getting it all back together do i need to prime this pump or should it pick it up on its own?
    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalinejunkie View Post
    o and i don't really have the money anymore to grab a new engine... so i guess its shoot and hope its a hit with the rebuild.. and i understand your just trying to help and your right its coming back to bite my ass. and any sugggestions on places to start looking or reading to help my understand and complete my VAC system?
    In that case just tear down the oil pump and clean its parts up good, flush out the pick up in a backwards direction that way hopfully you'll get any metal shavings out of the pickup screen. Brake clean, or carb clean works wonders even on just a rag. Blow it all off with compressed air if you can. For assembly grab a tube of prelube for building engines if you don't already have one. Then lube up it's moving parts and reassemble. No need to prime. You may need to pick up a GM certified repair manual for the VAC routing. It's been years since I've looked @ a 3.4L in a Camaro. Sorry about that.

    Ps a lone piston is'nt very expensive. Then with your old wrist pin out of the old piston, put your new piston into the freezer. Yes the freezer, get it very cold (like sticky cold), then apply heat to the wrist pin with a propane torch, don't need to be red hot. Working quickly, the wrist pin can be slid into position by hand.. then quench it with motor oil carefull not to let the pin shift.. Good luck..
    Last edited by Smittro; 12-04-2009 at 02:41 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    In that case just tear down the oil pump and clean its parts up good, flush out the pick up in a backwards direction that way hopfully you'll get any metal shavings out of the pickup screen. Brake clean, or carb clean works wonders even on just a rag. Blow it all off with compressed air if you can. For assembly grab a tube of prelube for building engines if you don't already have one. Then lube up it's moving parts and reassemble. No need to prime. You may need to pick up a GM certified repair manual for the VAC routing. It's been years since I've looked @ a 3.4L in a Camaro. Sorry about that.

    Ps a lone piston is'nt very expensive. Then with your old wrist pin out of the old piston, put your new piston into the freezer. Yes the freezer, get it very cold (like sticky cold), then apply heat to the wrist pin with a propane torch, don't need to be red hot. Working quickly, the wrist pin can be slid into position by hand.. then quench it with motor oil carefull not to let the pin shift.. Good luck..
    awesome! thanks alot for the quick write up on cleaning my oil pump that should help alot and keep from moving any metal shards caught in it to the rest of my motor. a certified repair manual sounds like a good idea for my VAC crap. definately kicking myself for not being slower safer and more methodical with my teardown.. well i guess every car lovers gotta learn sometime.

    i got my crank installed and im waiting till my parents can run my piston by the machine shop to have them press out and reinstall my wrist pin/new connecting rod. hopefully this week. then its just grabbing the degree timer i think (times the crank and cam together?) and reing compressor and putting my pistons in with new rings. then it should be quick work to dropping it back in and figureing out the mess i made there getting there slowly but surely

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    o and thank you alot smittro. your an awesome guy and have really helped me alot with any questions i have had. i really appreciate it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalinejunkie View Post
    o and thank you alot smittro. your an awesome guy and have really helped me alot with any questions i have had. i really appreciate it.
    No problem bud..

    You can hit your timing marks without the degree wheel though. With bolts losely holding the cam sprocket on , find the timing marks. They will be small marks usually a little stamped circular mark made just below the sprocket teeth (some have a tooth marked with a stamped line). Line up the 2 marks with the cam sprocket mark pointing south(down), and the crank sprocket mark pointing north(up). You have now timed to factory specs without any special tools..

    Good luck let me know if I can help more..

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    Oh yeah, as a precaution: Get yourself a couple of pieces of rubber hose about 4-5 inches long and slide them over the connecting rod bolts so you don't accidently score the crank when tamping the piston into their bores, and remember the notch in the top in the piston should face the front of the engine block. If there is no notch in the top of the piston it will be marked near the wrist pins hole "F" for front, use a magic marker to mark the tops of each piston for quick refferance. Also tie a laytex glove around the sharp parts of the lower end of the connecting rod so if it shifts while tamping them in it wont scratch or mar the cylider wall.. Take your time, check, check, and recheck.. good luck.
    Last edited by Smittro; 12-07-2009 at 06:03 PM.

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    Here's a pic of the TDC with the marks on the pistons to make sure they all face front.


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    For all the vacuum lines you should have a diagram for emissions on your radiator support. It will take some time. Maybe someone here can take a pic of there car for you.

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    thanks alot smittro thats alot of useful info and precautionary stuff that will help alot im sure.

    and yeah hopefully someone here will find this thread and post me a pic of the VAC lines and stuff especially on the top of the fuel injection system

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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalinejunkie View Post
    thanks alot smittro thats alot of useful info and precautionary stuff that will help alot im sure.

    and yeah hopefully someone here will find this thread and post me a pic of the VAC lines and stuff especially on the top of the fuel injection system
    have you thought to run to autozone and have them print off diagrams from alldata/motors? that may be something to look into!

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    http://www.zorly.com/images_camaro/g...V6%20(L36).jpg

    there is a picture of the 3.8 fully assembled so you have idea of what goes where

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    AH i'm retarded. i'll post up the right picture for you



    http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/g...NJ_EQN_LoR.jpg


    there! sorry for my absentmindedness
    Last edited by tep98ws6; 12-09-2009 at 02:36 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tep98ws6 View Post
    AH i'm retarded. i'll post up the right picture for you



    http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/g...NJ_EQN_LoR.jpg


    there! sorry for my absentmindedness
    Haha Still the wrong one hun.. That's a chinese 3400.. He needs the L32 3.4L for the 93-95 Camaro totaly different engine..
    Last edited by Smittro; 12-09-2009 at 09:42 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tep98ws6 View Post
    AH i'm retarded. i'll post up the right picture for you



    http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/g...NJ_EQN_LoR.jpg


    there! sorry for my absentmindedness
    Good effort though...

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    haha lol thanks for the effort bro. bigrons idea worked and the picture no my radiator cover worked just fine for the most part. there is one thing on the back of the fuel rail that looks like a hose might or should be there or maybe not. on the diagram it is depicted but it has no hoses or lines coming from it or leading anywhere and all it says is "to access" any ideas?

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    Maybe this will help..

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