Need Help Badly

**turbonatormr2** · 08-19-2006, 05:32 PM

I am a noob and was wondering is some one could help me out.

I have a 2000 V-6 Chevey Camero. I changed all of the 3 coils, new spark plugs gaped at .060 and new spark plug wires the car wont stay on now. I dont know if I put the wires back on correctly on the coils or if I did something else wrong. When you open up the hood you have 3 set of spark plugs to the left and 3 to the right. Does anybody know where the spark plug wires would go to the coils to match the spark plugs.

Please advice

**sunsetorangess** · 08-19-2006, 06:37 PM

Allrighty then, Chevy camaro...... My ex wife miss spelled chevy camaro in our divorce paperwork and i wouldnt sign.. but anyhow this should help you out....
firing order is. 1-6-5-4-3-2
This is what it would look like from the front of vehicle
even is on the left "passenger side" Odd are on the right "driver side"
6 5
4 3
2 1

**0rion** · 08-19-2006, 07:10 PM

Originally Posted by sunsetorangess

My ex wife miss spelled chevy camaro in our divorce paperwork and i wouldnt sign..

I like your style.

I've never even popped the hood on a 6 cyl f-body. How are the coils set up? Are they set up like the 3.8's in the GTP's? If so they're numbered. Just go from the numbered coil to the corresponding plug that sunsetorangess posted.

**turbonatormr2** · 08-19-2006, 07:10 PM

Originally Posted by sunsetorangess

Allrighty then, Chevy camaro...... My ex wife miss spelled chevy camaro in our divorce paperwork and i wouldnt sign.. but anyhow this should help you out....
firing order is. 1-6-5-4-3-2
This is what it would look like from the front of vehicle
even is on the left "passenger side" Odd are on the right "driver side"
6 5
4 3
2 1

Lol! I least you got to keep the car. (he,he,)

The fireing order on the coils that you gave me 1-6-5-4-3-2 is this starting from the the first coil which is in the front or starting form the coil farthest to the back of the car.

Also when I changed all 3 coils I took of the bracket they are mounted on. In back of the bracket is a conector with a hexagon screw in the middle of the connector that attaches to the barcket that the coils are sitting on I took that off and disconnected the connector took the bracket off with the coils still attached to the braket so I could replace all 3 coils out side of the car instead of inside the engine bay which has very little room to remove them. I hope I did not mess something up by removing that little hexagon screw.

**sunsetorangess** · 08-19-2006, 07:45 PM

The coil packs should be numbered, Check the old ones as well too see if they are numbered. As long as you connected the lil connector back where it originaly went then u should be ok. Why did you replace the coil packs to begin with?
At the coils in front of the car they are
1
4

5
2

3
6

J

**turbonatormr2** · 08-19-2006, 09:46 PM

Originally Posted by sunsetorangess

The coil packs should be numbered, Check the old ones as well too see if they are numbered. As long as you connected the lil connector back where it originaly went then u should be ok. Why did you replace the coil packs to begin with?
At the coils in front of the car they are
1
4

5
2

3
6

J

The reason why I replaced them was because the car was running funny so I took it to a shop they put it on the machine for a diagonistic test and it came out with a code saying one of the coils was bad. I didn't know which one was bad so I decided to change them all. They were charging me $550.00 to change one coil and the spark plug wires so Idecided to do it myself. I went to the dealer and bought a set of new ones including spark plugs and spark plug wires now the car wont stay on. It starts right up but hen it just dies.

Thank you for your help I really appriciate it.

**sunsetorangess** · 08-20-2006, 07:08 AM

Any time, just let me know if that fixes your issue.
J

**turbonatormr2** · 08-20-2006, 03:51 PM

Originally Posted by sunsetorangess

Any time, just let me know if that fixes your issue.
J

The car is still miss fireing. I replaced all the coils the spark plugs and spark plug wires could and I checked to make sure the plug was pluged in all the way. Is there anything else that might cause it to keep miss fireing. Also how can I check if the new coils I got are good. I put them exactly like the diagram you sent me. Is there aything else I can check?.

**bene** · 08-20-2006, 04:51 PM

How many miles on stock coils? Check/replace coils and check for coil interface (bottom plate that coils are bolted on). Make sure the connections aren't bad ie not corroded. If its corroded get a wire brush and clean it off. Since you're already checking everything/replacing, go ahead replace your fuel filter if you're still running the original one.

**sunsetorangess** · 08-20-2006, 04:53 PM

Ok so all the wires are good and not burnt right? Your plugs are gapped at .60 right? Is your check engine light on? If so take it too autozone and let them scan the codes for free and post. Is it running worse then befor you replaced coils or the same? You reconnected your harness right? One way too check your coil packs is too pull out the plug and touch a piece of metal while someone cranks the car too see if it arcs. Becareful if you go this route not too touch the bottom of the plug where you can get shocked. How many miles are on the car? when did the issue start? after a mod or a high speed run or anything abonormal?
J

**turbonatormr2** · 08-20-2006, 07:23 PM

Originally Posted by bene

How many miles on stock coils? Check/replace coils and check for coil interface (bottom plate that coils are bolted on). Make sure the connections aren't bad ie not corroded. If its corroded get a wire brush and clean it off. Since you're already checking everything/replacing, go ahead replace your fuel filter if you're still running the original one.

The coils are the original ones on the car. The car has 59 thousand miles on it. Original miles on it. I will change the fuel filter. They look brand new and are not corroded.

**turbonatormr2** · 08-20-2006, 07:25 PM

Originally Posted by sunsetorangess

Ok so all the wires are good and not burnt right? Your plugs are gapped at .60 right? Is your check engine light on? If so take it too autozone and let them scan the codes for free and post. Is it running worse then befor you replaced coils or the same? You reconnected your harness right? One way too check your coil packs is too pull out the plug and touch a piece of metal while someone cranks the car too see if it arcs. Becareful if you go this route not too touch the bottom of the plug where you can get shocked. How many miles are on the car? when did the issue start? after a mod or a high speed run or anything abonormal?
J

Ok I pulled the number 6 spark plug off and it smells like fule on it. Let me tell you what happened from the begining. I was driving the car and the weld came off right where the pipe and the catilac converter meet. If you where to go to the passanger side of the car you can see the cat without lifting the car. The weld that came off is torwards the back right where it meets the pipe. I hope this makes sense. So I took it to a welding shop and the guy looked at it and he said that even if he weled it, it was going to happen again becasue there was something else wrong that was causing it to heat so much that it cut the pipe from the heat right where the pipe meets the cat. He showed me, he turned on the car and let it idle for a while and the pipe got so hot that I could actually see it get so bright orange and it was day time. So he did not weld it back on. He said I should get fixed what was causing it to get so hot that it would acutlually cause it to come off at the weld. I took the car to get a diagnostic test for $80.00. The guy said that one of the coils was not working and it was causing the unburned fuel to go to the cat and making it get so hot. He said he could fix it for $550.00 for one coil and the change the spark plug wires. For that much I decided to do it my-self. I bought the spark plug wires, 3 coils and spark plugs for a total of $266.00 all brand new from the dealer.They gave me a discount (he,he). So I changed everything and followed the diagram to perfection.
http://www.turbov6camaro.com/images/wires.JPG

The Cat is still disconnected at the back weld could this cause it to miss-fire?. I wanted it to get the coil problem fixed first then I was going to get it welded to stop the over heating on the cat and pipe.

So now the car stay on but has a bad miss-fire and you can smell allot of fuel fumes even when sitting in the car, but he spark plug that I pulled off, the number 6 smells like fuel all around the threads and the point of fire on the spark plug. So that's where I am at now.

3 new coils changed
6 new spark plug wires changed
6 new spark plugs changed with the smell of fuel at th tips and around the threads gaped at .060
Catilac converter not welded to the pipe where they meet (back of the cat)

The car is totally stock with no modifications what so ever. The car is now runnig worse than before. Harness was reconected to perfection. I will take it to auto zone on Tuesday and will post the codes I will not have time until then also I will get the pipe and the cat welded.

**VChula** · 08-20-2006, 10:38 PM

This sounds similar to what happened to my 02 RS recently.

The dealer replaced my ignition control module and the problem went away.

**turbonatormr2** · 08-20-2006, 10:55 PM

Originally Posted by VChula

This sounds similar to what happened to my 02 RS recently.

The dealer replaced my ignition control module and the problem went away.

How much did you pay for the igniton control module? Is the Module where the coils sit on?.

**sunsetorangess** · 08-21-2006, 12:14 AM

The price for a new icm is about 130.00. That could be the issue but i doubt it. From what you posted it sounds like you have got one bad "not firing" cylinder. You replaced the the coil pack that goes too this cylinder. so that should have eliminated that. In my opinion i would say it sounds like a stuck open injector. But befor you go buyin more parts have the codes scanned and post them so we can help you further.
You said all of the plugs smell like fuel or just #6?
J

**VChula** · 08-21-2006, 07:12 PM

Originally Posted by turbonatormr2

How much did you pay for the igniton control module? Is the Module where the coils sit on?.

The dealer price for the module is around $300.
The Autozone cost is around $130.

When mine went, it threw a code (don't know which one).

Due to cost, I wouldn't replace it until you get the proper code.

**turbonatormr2** · 08-21-2006, 10:25 PM

Originally Posted by VChula

The dealer price for the module is around $300.
The Autozone cost is around $130.

When mine went, it threw a code (don't know which one).

Due to cost, I wouldn't replace it until you get the proper code.

Ok I called the dealer and they are charging me $300.00 for th moduel.

Also the reason why my cat broke at the weld is because the cat is clogged and no good so it caused it to heat so bad that it broke the weld. What would cause the cat to get clogged?.

**VChula** · 08-22-2006, 08:40 PM

As my dealer explained it to me, when the ignition module goes, the car will run very, very rich, which can cause the catalytic converter to overheat and melt its "innards", thus causing blockage.

If this is your problem, your "Service Engine Soon" light should have turned itself on - possibly in a couple of different ways.

I never was told what trouble code number my IC module set off, but when that code activated, my "Service Engine Soon" light was blinking. A blinking "Service Engine Soon" light is very bad and the car should not be driven any further than a couple of miles (according to the dealer).

After it stopped blinking it went to a "steady on" state. This is when code P0420 occurred. After a minute, the light went totally off. About another 30 seconds later, the light repeated the blinking on/off, steady on and steady off phase.

Code P0420 is set when the catalyst's oxygen storage capacity is less than an acceptable threshold.

The dealer wanted to investigate replacing my car's y-pipe, which also contains the converter. The said that the pipe could be clogged. I refused to let them do this because they wanted to charge me. In California, it is mandatory that emissions-related components be fully warranted for 8 years, or 80,000 miles. My car has only 60k on it. I halted the dealer from performing any more work and made them start up my car. It ran fine and showed no further codes. I then liberated my car from the dealer, after paying for the IC module replacement.

When I got my car back from the dealer, it ran fine, but smelled like it was still running a little rich. Later, my "Service Engine Soon" light came back on.

I then decided to inspect the exhaust system for leakages, dings or breaks, because my car was also rattling quite a bit before the module was replaced. A little smoke had also entered the cabin through the parking brake area during this condition. I also experienced a wet/stale burning smell, both of which I had originally reported to the dealer.

My inspection resulted in absolutely no leakages, dings or breaks. But, there was a trace of charring on a little corner of the converter exhaust hanger. I also decided to change my oil at the same time. When I started to remove the oil filter (from under the car) I discovered huge wads of newspaper stuck up into the radiator area. The burning smell I encountered was likely from the newspaper contacting the radiator, or a piece flying off and attaching itself to the catalyst. This newspaper could have also partially blocked the air induction path, causing the car to run rich. I then plugged in my scanner and erased the trouble code events and code event history.

After two weeks of daily driving, no trouble codes have been reencountered and the car runs great. However, I am still keeping an eye on the situation.

Fortunately for me, I only drove my car in the conditions above for only a couple of miles. If it was driven any longer, I would probably be replacing my converter as well.

**turbonatormr2** · 08-23-2006, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by VChula

As my dealer explained it to me, when the ignition module goes, the car will run very, very rich, which can cause the catalytic converter to overheat and melt its "innards", thus causing blockage.

If this is your problem, your "Service Engine Soon" light should have turned itself on - possibly in a couple of different ways.

I never was told what trouble code number my IC module set off, but when that code activated, my "Service Engine Soon" light was blinking. A blinking "Service Engine Soon" light is very bad and the car should not be driven any further than a couple of miles (according to the dealer).

After it stopped blinking it went to a "steady on" state. This is when code P0420 occurred. After a minute, the light went totally off. About another 30 seconds later, the light repeated the blinking on/off, steady on and steady off phase.

Code P0420 is set when the catalyst's oxygen storage capacity is less than an acceptable threshold.

The dealer wanted to investigate replacing my car's y-pipe, which also contains the converter. The said that the pipe could be clogged. I refused to let them do this because they wanted to charge me. In California, it is mandatory that emissions-related components be fully warranted for 8 years, or 80,000 miles. My car has only 60k on it. I halted the dealer from performing any more work and made them start up my car. It ran fine and showed no further codes. I then liberated my car from the dealer, after paying for the IC module replacement.

When I got my car back from the dealer, it ran fine, but smelled like it was still running a little rich. Later, my "Service Engine Soon" light came back on.

I then decided to inspect the exhaust system for leakages, dings or breaks, because my car was also rattling quite a bit before the module was replaced. A little smoke had also entered the cabin through the parking brake area during this condition. I also experienced a wet/stale burning smell, both of which I had originally reported to the dealer.

My inspection resulted in absolutely no leakages, dings or breaks. But, there was a trace of charring on a little corner of the converter exhaust hanger. I also decided to change my oil at the same time. When I started to remove the oil filter (from under the car) I discovered huge wads of newspaper stuck up into the radiator area. The burning smell I encountered was likely from the newspaper contacting the radiator, or a piece flying off and attaching itself to the catalyst. This newspaper could have also partially blocked the air induction path, causing the car to run rich. I then plugged in my scanner and erased the trouble code events and code event history.

After two weeks of daily driving, no trouble codes have been reencountered and the car runs great. However, I am still keeping an eye on the situation.

Fortunately for me, I only drove my car in the conditions above for only a couple of miles. If it was driven any longer, I would probably be replacing my converter as well.

Ok! That's what the dealer told me. That the number 2 and the number 5 was not firing and that it was causing the fuel to go to the cat and burned it up. I am arguing with them right now becuause they had just replaced it and they want me to pay for it. But they diagonsed the car with fuel in cat and they just replaced the cat but did not tell me about the moduel and now they want me to pay $550.00 for the moduel and another $475.00 for the cat.

Bastards!! It's there fault I have all the receipts to prove it to.