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3.1 v-6

This is a discussion on 3.1 v-6 within the V6 forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I have bleed it several times. My water pump has a small screw on top of the metal tube above ...

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    I have bleed it several times. My water pump has a small screw on top of the metal tube above it. This is where i bleed it. The upper rad hose has a hard line running from the top front of the t-stat housing over to the overfow tank. It definitly is a PITA. I don't know all the history on this car. It does seem to have been abused before I got it, brakes were metal to metal. It was also very dirty, but ran/drove good. I did get this car cheap. Maybe I got duped, It is still worth fixing though. I think anyway. I would try some sealer but I want this car dependable enough for my wife or kids to drive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass View Post
    I have bleed it several times. My water pump has a small screw on top of the metal tube above it. This is where i bleed it. The upper rad hose has a hard line running from the top front of the t-stat housing over to the overfow tank. It definitly is a PITA. I don't know all the history on this car. It does seem to have been abused before I got it, brakes were metal to metal. It was also very dirty, but ran/drove good. I did get this car cheap. Maybe I got duped, It is still worth fixing though. I think anyway. I would try some sealer but I want this car dependable enough for my wife or kids to drive.
    I see, maybe they got it stuck and over heated it once.. That could be a reason for the head gasket, or head problems too. It nearly always seems to be a kick to the nuts when we buy used..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    I see, maybe they got it stuck and over heated it once.. That could be a reason for the head gasket, or head problems too. It nearly always seems to be a kick to the nuts when we buy used..
    Yeah not too many people say yeah this is a P O S now I would like full asking price when its all said and done I should still be under $1k total.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass View Post
    Yeah not too many people say yeah this is a P O S now I would like full asking price when its all said and done I should still be under $1k total.
    Welcome the the world of 660's..lol

    There are so many interchanges between the various 60*v6 flatforms all one has to do is shop around..

    You should get 150k+ out of an average 660..

    Especially after correcting the GM fopaws..

    Your engine also has the specialized timing chain retainer.

    As seen here on my TDC 660:


    It's spring loaded and constantly takes up slack that comes with chain wear and stretch.

    So unless the chain breaks it will always run within lash specs..
    Last edited by Smittro; 02-14-2011 at 04:14 AM.

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    That is the strangest motor I have ever seen! Looks like it has 5 cams. I didn't know about the tensioner thought that was for overhead cam motors. With any luck I will have mine apart late this week or weekend.

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    Ok so I found a motor from a wrecked corsica did some research and its a direct swap. What I need is some advice on how to check it out since the one I have would pass my inspection without running.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass View Post
    Ok so I found a motor from a wrecked corsica did some research and its a direct swap. What I need is some advice on how to check it out since the one I have would pass my inspection without running.
    Has to be after 93 for it to work.. Early 3.1 (obd-I) did'nt have a cam sensor.. And the coil pack pick up (crank sensor) was block mounted..

    Check the oil pump drive to be sure the O-ring is'nt or has'nt been leaking..

    Fuel pressure reg, and EGR is a common issue on the older engines.. Unfortunely the regulator is under the upper intake..

    Engine should turn easy by hand. Bottom ends are usually good in them even with limited oil changes. Just as long as it was'nt ran low.. Pull the pan and inspect the caps by trying to "wiggle" the caps while in there inspect the cylinder walls for scoring and/or damage from sitting due to moisture.. Check for a coolant trail down the front of the engine as the lower intake gaskets liked to leak.. I would replace all the intake gaskets as a percaution...

    I'd replace the knock sensor while it's out of the car as well.. It's cheap for the 3.1 and is a PITA to get to while the engine is in the car..
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    Its a 95, sounds like I may as well pull mine apart. I doubt the guy will let me take it apart before I buy it. Great tips!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass View Post
    Its a 95, sounds like I may as well pull mine apart. I doubt the guy will let me take it apart before I buy it. Great tips!!
    Let us know how it goes/went..

    Sorry I forgot about this thread..

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    turns out the other motor was bad. My heads are at the machine shop. It was a blown gasket hopefully the heads are good.

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    Well my heads are not good and would cost more than they are worth to fix. I have found another engine but its a 3.4 from a shop. The guy tells me its a direct replacement. I really don't know. Is the 3.4 a direct swap? If not what do I need from the 3.1 to make the swap?

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass View Post
    Well my heads are not good and would cost more than they are worth to fix. I have found another engine but its a 3.4 from a shop. The guy tells me its a direct replacement. I really don't know. Is the 3.4 a direct swap? If not what do I need from the 3.1 to make the swap?
    The 3.4/3.1 FWD swap is mostly plug and play. Most of the sensors are indentical from one to the other right down to part numbers. Both have 19-21 lb injectors and so forth. Only thing that maybe slightly different is the location of the alt and coolant pump.. Remanned 3.4 ECM's are under or slightly over 100 bucks iirc.. Both engines upper intakes have the TB in pretty much the same spot as well.. Definetly an upgrade in power too..

    I would salvage the timing cover from the 3.1 so if the 3.4 has a different one you can simply bolt on the 3.1 cover in it's place if you desire. Motor mounts and all are in the exact same places on both engines (same blocks). The 3.4 will run on the 3.1 ECM too but the fueling maps are slightly different so you will likely not get the power out of the 3.4 running 3.1 ECM. Internally they are identical with the 3.4 having a slight over bore than the 3.1.. You can literally do the swap in a few hours by dropping the engine/trany and k-frame out the bottom as one unit.

    This makes it easy to remove the old motor bolt up the new one right on your shop floor, then drop the car over it.. I kid you not, it's far harder to change the engine/trany in our f-bodies than in a late model 660 FWD car.. Especially since you're replacing it with it's nearly identical cousin.. Even if the timing covers are not the same you can still make use of the one that's on the 3.4. It retains all the same coolant hose connections. Though as I said, they may be in a slightly different spot or angle. The interchangablity between the 660 high features is what drives us 660 enthusiasts to try many different combos with parts from various 660 engines and build hybrided motors.. This all may seem foreign to you but believe me it's far easier than it looks. Just take your time and make sure everything is pluged in and routed so not to damage the harness or the plug ends and you should be golden..

    Good luck! If you have any questions or need help let me know..
    Last edited by Smittro; 02-27-2011 at 09:21 PM. Reason: forgot to say FWD swaps only..

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    sounds great! I actually pulled the whole motor out from the top, I didn't want to have to get it re aligned. didn't take too long prob 2 hrs. I do have a lift though so that made it way easier. Other than the 2 lower bell housing bolts and power steering lines it was pretty easy. I will start looking for the ecm, or hopefully the guy has that too. With any luck i will pick it up today. when I am done with this i will have some parts to sell where do you suggest I list them? I have only used craigslist, and e-bay.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass View Post
    sounds great! I actually pulled the whole motor out from the top, I didn't want to have to get it re aligned. didn't take too long prob 2 hrs. I do have a lift though so that made it way easier. Other than the 2 lower bell housing bolts and power steering lines it was pretty easy. I will start looking for the ecm, or hopefully the guy has that too. With any luck i will pick it up today. when I am done with this i will have some parts to sell where do you suggest I list them? I have only used craigslist, and e-bay.
    Yeah I pulled my LQ1 out the top too.. But either way as you found out it's a cake walk..

    You may be able to unload parts @ 60*v6.com.. It's a site dedicated to only the 660.. You may need to be a member for a while like here tho.. But ebay and craigs list are good places to try aswell..
    Last edited by Smittro; 02-27-2011 at 08:41 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass View Post
    That is the strangest motor I have ever seen! Looks like it has 5 cams. I didn't know about the tensioner thought that was for overhead cam motors. With any luck I will have mine apart late this week or weekend.
    Missed this one.. Yes sir "he" is the hemispherical LQ1 and fourunner to the northstar platforms.. And yes he has 5 cams. The center cam is a blank with no lobes and should not be confused with a counter balance shaft like the 3800 employs.. It's soul purpose is to drive the cog for the cam belt and to run the factory high volume oil pump.. The average LQ1 runs @ 70-80 PSI oil presure under normal driving conditions.. It can also go as high as 95-100 psi @ 7100 rpms.. The tensioner was a GM after thought after the early 2.8 and 3.1 high features arrived.. Huge improvement over the single "foot" that was used before it.. Not only did it take up slack but it now controlled back side chain lash as well. The old set up allowed the back side of the chain to rely on valve spring tension only. This caused vibration to acure and in some cases premature chain failier.. The other up grade was the use of a 3/4 ton pickup v8 timing chain.. Counting teeth, the top and bottom sprockets outside DIA. specs are that of the SBC... yup that is correct you can take a 660 t-chain and put it on your 305-350 etc.. I'm running LS7 valve springs instead of shimed stockers as I was originally..
    Last edited by Smittro; 02-27-2011 at 09:32 PM.

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    Sounds like a pretty advanced/expensive motor. While I was swaping timing covers I did not find a tensioner just a stamped piece of metal with plastic guides. Seems like its there to control chain slap doesn't actually touch the chain. I will be listing the parts soon, anything you need?

    Also have a complete trans looks as if it was rebuilt not too long ago.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass View Post
    Sounds like a pretty advanced/expensive motor. While I was swaping timing covers I did not find a tensioner just a stamped piece of metal with plastic guides. Seems like its there to control chain slap doesn't actually touch the chain. I will be listing the parts soon, anything you need?

    Also have a complete trans looks as if it was rebuilt not too long ago.
    Yeah there are some that don't have it I guess..

    There are some pricely parts but no after market makes it expensive because parts have to be either altered or made if you plan to mod an LQ1..
    I had to have a forged after market crank for the all iron 3.4 truck engine altered for use with my LQ1 project..
    Thanks for the offer.. But the LQ1 is a different beast..
    Last edited by Smittro; 02-28-2011 at 05:44 PM. Reason: too much info

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    What kind of power are you getting out of it? and will it idle

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    Quote Originally Posted by joejenkinsglass View Post
    What kind of power are you getting out of it? and will it idle
    When it's finished it will idle like a kitten with some growl and scream like a banshee over 7k..

    The cams are recut stockers because there is no after market cams made for the LQ1.. .475 lift and nearly unlimited LSA (within reason) sinse the LQ1 does not have splined cogs. Giving me and engine that can be physically tuned as well as electronically.. I'm running a custom build Megasquirt-II and will be tuned in SD with an in dash touch screen ECM interface..

    Expected crank hp will be300-400+ with 350-375 my goal to the road..

    Iron block can hold over 500 crank but it's only been done a couple of times with no proof they lasted or are still running..

    LQ1 responds well to boost in stock form over 400hp.. I added a forged crank to my mix. Factory rods are forged (not to be confused with the powder forging in the 3800). Had them heat treated and shot peened for added strength.. LQ1's come with high speed domed pistons with releafs for the valves.. Every 60*v6 is a very well balanced unit from stock.. I sorta took mine to the next level for added durrability.







    Here's how they come factory:

    Last edited by Smittro; 03-01-2011 at 11:22 PM.

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    I basicly took some stock parts had some stuff tooled/machined and/or made stronger/better and then got rid of all the crap not nessasary for the basic engine to run.. Most of which is/was all emissions related.. My LQ1 z34 is a gen-I and is 19 this year and has been emissions exempt for the past 3 years or so.. It still has to pass a visual so I will still run the factory 3.5 inch high flow and prolly dump it out the side near the rear passenger wheel so I can hear everything lol..
    Last edited by Smittro; 03-01-2011 at 11:43 PM.

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