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Wheel hop????

This is a discussion on Wheel hop???? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Not long ago finished up my Ls7 clutch install and have been on the break in period. Attempted a to ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Wheel hop????

    Not long ago finished up my Ls7 clutch install and have been on the break in period. Attempted a to put some power to the rear wheels yesterday( about 15mph and a little clutch) and I had a serious amount of wheel hop. Thought it may have been the road tried it again different road and same result. Never had that before just spun, any help on cause or repair.
    Everything under rear stock. Planing on complete rear change possible for next year, with UMI suspension stuff.
    99 Trans Am, SLP Lid, Blackwing filter, smooth bellow, Ported TB, LS6 intake, Ws6 lower ram air box, OBX LT's, Magna Flow cat back, LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Hurst Shifter, Frost Tune, UMI SFC,LAC, STB, PB, Torq Arm, Super Hawk hood, Torq Thrust II, Kee Audio.
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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I run stock suspension parts and then box the control arms and panhard myself so I still get the comfy quiet ride with the rubber bushings.

    Never once has that car hinted at bouncing the tires.

    Could have a few things going on, maybe a worn bushing somewhere allowing some play, shocks?

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Never had a problem before I pulled the tranny. Going to get under and look around. Really only thing I removed was the Torq arm from its bushing. I'm assuming the Torq arm would play a huge part in wheel hop? Getting it back on was a huge pain in the ass. The rear leavers down had to jack the front (pinion) up and still struggle to get the bolts in.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Yes, it would. Re-check everything and also your pinion angle of the torque arm.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
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    The stock suspension pieces are pretty flimsy. UMI tubular LCA's and panhard will help keep things planted out back. As suggested, a quick check under the car to ensure that nothing came loose can't hurt. Since you are all stock the pinion angle isn't adjustable. I rotate our rear up with an undercar screwjack. You can do the same with a floor jack and the bolts should install easily.

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Checked everything out and don't see anything for concern, other than the LCA's and panhard bar are going to be replaced in the spring, I also am looking into a new Torq arm bushing any help on a replacement ( keeping stock arm ) would help.

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    The stock suspension pieces are pretty flimsy. UMI tubular LCA's and panhard will help keep things planted out back. As suggested, a quick check under the car to ensure that nothing came loose can't hurt. Since you are all stock the pinion angle isn't adjustable. I rotate our rear up with an undercar screwjack. You can do the same with a floor jack and the bolts should install easily.
    There have been a lot of changes to this car, wheels 16" to 17" , UMI SFC'S, power, as well as mileage and age on the factory stuff so I'm also thinking the pinion angle is off, so upgrades are in the planing book

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    Investing in the UMI crossmember mount that moves the torque arm bushing off the transmission is a good idea.

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Was looking into new bushing for Torq arm, summit has a poly unit listed for stock arm. Listing says bushing will help with wheel hop due to increased horsepower and suspension changes.
    Any advice on using a poly bushing over a factory replacement?

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    The only drawback to using the poly bushing there, is that they will transmit a little more noise up to the cabin, you may feel or hear it through the shifter, especially with an aftermarket shifter that isn't insulated. But they do stiffin things up.

    I do run a poly torque arm bushing in my wifes car along with a poly bushing for the trans mount to keep those 2 items as still as possible, but with a factory Hurst shifter that still has the insulation boot on the floor, and the isolator from the factory stick is removed (using an aftermarket short stick) and I get a little more noise in the cabin, but not bad, and certainly not as bad as an aftermarket setup that usually hacks up the floor insulator. Someone that hasn't driven this car in either configuration wouldn't even notice it.

    As far as the rest of the suspension goes, I prefer stock rubber bushings for less noise, no squeaks, and softer ride. I just box in the stock control arms and pan hard bar to stiffen things up.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 09-08-2013 at 09:15 AM.
    kingls1 likes this.

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hs...FYo7OgodoUAAwg
    Here is the link to the poly mount, thanks for the input, this is not a daily driver so a little more raw feel may not be to bad.

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    I would go with the poly torque arm mount. Only thing not poly on our car is the transmission mount.

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