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Wheel Hop

This is a discussion on Wheel Hop within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Yeah thats kind of what I figured. The wheel hop is coming from the wheels trying to get traction and ...

  1. #21
    Lookin for a race 99HuggerOrangeZ's Avatar
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    2004 Black Escalade EXT
    1999 Hugger Orange Z28

    Yeah thats kind of what I figured. The wheel hop is coming from the wheels trying to get traction and breaking loose at the same time which results in a shimmy of the rear.

    and another question...

    What are the pros/cons of switching to rear coil overs?
    99 Hugger Orange Z28 A4 3.42's
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  2. #22
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    Coil-overs are mostly hype and will not solve the hop issue. In fact I won't run them because the shock location is not designed or intended to hold up 1600+ lbs. of car, let alone the bushings that mount the shocks.

    Pro's. You can corner weight the car, if you have scales. And the cross weights of an f-body are very, very good stock so no gain to be had in messing with it. You can alter your ride height to you liking.

    Con's. Rear not setup for coil-overs. No coil-over setup out there that uses good shocks in a readily available off the shelf form.
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  3. #23
    Lookin for a race 99HuggerOrangeZ's Avatar
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    2004 Black Escalade EXT
    1999 Hugger Orange Z28

    I see, so basically the coil overs are only good for adjusting your ride height anytime and any way you want.


    Now if I change the the shocks would I benefit from changing the springs too? I really don't want to change the ride height at all because I like how it sits now, and I think I read somewhere that the only aftermarket springs that are available lower the rear.

  4. #24
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    So you think you need to change the stock springs why exactly? If you like the height, then keep the springs. It's that simple.

  5. #25
    Lookin for a race 99HuggerOrangeZ's Avatar
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    2004 Black Escalade EXT
    1999 Hugger Orange Z28

    Nope, don't want the change the springs or ride height just checking to see if it is beneficial to change the stock ones.


    Thanks

  6. #26
    Powerstrokin LT1 > LS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    I'm glad... but that's not the case for everyone. And fwiw, the hop stopped because you added traction via the instant center change from the brackets. Not all hop comes from, or can be stopped by the instant center moving.

    Again, brackets can indeed stop a hop.... but not always, and running the rear arms tail down compromises stability and balance at speed, and every more as the speed climbs.
    exactly. its essentially like changing the instant center on a 4 link suspension.


    stretching it out, and making it parelle will give it more down track, but making it steeper, and moving it up will give you more at the hit....and thats what we are looking for essentially

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by LT1 > LS1 View Post
    exactly. its essentially like changing the instant center on a 4 link suspension.


    stretching it out, and making it parelle will give it more down track, but making it steeper, and moving it up will give you more at the hit....and thats what we are looking for essentially
    At the drag strip... but setting the LCA angles tail-down does make for a much more nervous car @ speed on the road and around corners.

    I'm much more into street and cornering than drag racing, so I don't personally use or need LCA relocation brackets. But I do sell them to folks when they drag a fair bit, but recommend the setting used for launching is not used for driving.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    At the drag strip... but setting the LCA angles tail-down does make for a much more nervous car @ speed on the road and around corners.

    I'm much more into street and cornering than drag racing, so I don't personally use or need LCA relocation brackets. But I do sell them to folks when they drag a fair bit, but recommend the setting used for launching is not used for driving.
    I have relocation brackets and what Sam said is 100% true. I do both AutoX and drag race. The fix is get brackets that have 2 or 3 settings so when you’re at the strip you can set them to the lowest setting and for every thing else set them to flat or just a little angled down.
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  9. #29
    Powerstrokin LT1 > LS1's Avatar
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    cool. are they adjustable back to stock holes, or just a few lower options?

  10. #30
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    Mine I have yes they allow you to put them back to the stock location.

  11. #31
    Impounded
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    Black as black can be
    2001 Trans Am WS6

    I got same problem, I have an 01 WS6, it was all stock with the stock clutch and tranny at 110,000mi, it had been babied I got it from original owner 8 months ago and the first month I ran it after I put a SLP lid,hooker muffler,msd plug wires on and I ran 13.08 on first pass, it never wheel hopped on street or track, my 2nd pass I broke the shift fork and coudlnt shift into 3rd...since then I had the tranny built up with all the goodies, a pro 5.0 shifter, spec clutch, and while it was out I installed LT headers and took my cats out and installed a 3in catless Y-pipe....I've always just had street tires and now it wheel hops very hard through 1st and when I shift into second then it will spin all through 2nd and thn wheel hop when I shift into 3rd for a little, and before it never even spun....I got it in august so the roads were hot, I'm hoping a lot is to do with the roads being colder now...I noticed when 1st gear now just wheel hops and pretty much doesnt move too fast, then 2nd gear goes and slams me back but it leaves posi marks on the road till I shift into 3rd then pretty much quits after a little wheel hop...then I hear rocks slamming all over my car from the tires getting sticky for about 5 minutes, its annoying, help me...oh im installing a 160 thermo and getting it tuned on a dyno in about 2 weeks, he is moving all the torque down low and HP at top end to make it better driveability and faster in quarter mile....

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