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whats the best SFC to buy?

This is a discussion on whats the best SFC to buy? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; well i heard there all about the same but dont believe it. and should i go bolt on or weld ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    whats the best SFC to buy?

    well i heard there all about the same but dont believe it. and should i go bolt on or weld in?

    prices too

    thanks

  2. #2
    Member MikeMoss's Avatar
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    These are the ones that I have http://umiperformance.com/2002?category_id=129

    I got the bolt in because it was so much easier then weld in and I could do it it my driveway. I am very happy with them. They made the car hook like 10x better and it rides better too.

    I think that UMI has an ebay store that has these SFC's for something like 10$ cheaper maybe dont know this for sure, but I dont remember paying that much for mine.

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    Senior Member JonB's Avatar
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    I run competion engineering bolt in subframes from summit. As with the Mike above me I wanted something I could do in my driveway so I went bolt ins. Weld in are actually better/stronger but my car is just a dd with little track time so all out strength was not my main concern.
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    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    for the bolt in ones did the car have existing holes

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Weld ins>bolt ins
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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    Weld ins>bolt ins
    I agree 100%.


    Thinking about changing my SLP bolt-in diamond ones out for some UMI's.
    UMI is my choice for suspension parts.
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  7. #7
    Member MikeMoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greatwhiteZ28 View Post
    for the bolt in ones did the car have existing holes
    yes,

    why are the weld in that much better. They gave me grade 8 bolts so I tightened them with a impact and they do not and have not moved at all I just don't see how the weld in can be that much stronger.

    You could also weld the bolt ins in they are the same with 2 holes in it.

  8. #8
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMoss View Post
    yes,

    why are the weld in that much better. They gave me grade 8 bolts so I tightened them with a impact and they do not and have not moved at all I just don't see how the weld in can be that much stronger.

    You could also weld the bolt ins in they are the same with 2 holes in it.
    Weld in create a complete unit with the cars subframe.
    Bolt ins may not slip or come loose, but they aren't tied directly into the car. They are tucked up instead of becoming part of it.
    Hope that makes sense.

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    Would the diamond style be much preferred if I am running a body mounted torque arm? And Lous would you get another set of the diamonds if you change to UMI, or get the boxed weld ins?

  10. #10
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    is there a power limet to the bolt on one i just want them so i can go back to complet show room stock later down the road, and if not what is the best bolt-ins

  11. #11
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99bluebird View Post
    Would the diamond style be much preferred if I am running a body mounted torque arm? And Lous would you get another set of the diamonds if you change to UMI, or get the boxed weld ins?
    I would get rid of the diamonds all together.

    Weld in boxed ones.


    My problem with the diamond style is that cross section for my torque arm. The bolts do not thread very far because you have to tighten the subframe connector and the torque arm center piece onto the car.
    No too worried about it as it is since the weight presses upwards there anyways, but I would like a better bite.



    Quote Originally Posted by 01 T/A View Post
    is there a power limet to the bolt on one i just want them so i can go back to complet show room stock later down the road, and if not what is the best bolt-ins
    I have 531 at the wheels and have not moved my bolt on ones.
    Basicly you hit it on the head. You can go back to stock.
    UMI is my suspension preference.

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    I like my weld in Pharro Performance SFC. I will try to get some pics of it the week when i have it up on the lift.

  13. #13
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    So is there not a great forward component of the force from the torque arm? I know it would push up in response to the axle twist but it would seem like it would also push forward on the body, in addition to the lower control arms. If that is the case would the extra stress pushing on the floor pan not eventually cause some bending or problems? It seems like the floor pan is pretty thin under there. Besides the tunnel brace that used to go there was not very structural at all.

  14. #14
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    I have heard people be concerned about that as well.

    The pressure should be evenly distributed I would think. Something I will ask Ryan at UMI when I talk to him about the diamond subframes compared to the boxed weld-ins. Weight is another thing.

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    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    lil off topic, i know,

    would SFC' s be a better gain compared to a new toruqe arm?

    and is there any need for a new tranny brace?

  16. #16
    Senior Member JonB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greatwhiteZ28 View Post
    lil off topic, i know,

    would SFC' s be a better gain compared to a new toruqe arm?

    and is there any need for a new tranny brace?
    Not really sure if I would rate one higher gain than the other but put them toghter and its a night and day difference. I went sfc, lcas, lca brackets then torque arm. Alot of people say sfc should be the 4th gens first mod.

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    Luos, why could you not just get longer bolts to hold the tunnel brace through the subframe connectors into the floorpan holes? I want to install my tunnel mounted torque arm but am deciding which SFC's to get b/c the 3pts would change the install. Are the 3pts in the way of tranny removal at all, and do they clear the Y pipe nicely? Let me know what UMI says about the floor pan stress because they told me "the only time they recommend 3pts is when you run a tunnel mounted torque arm."

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    The mount for my tunnel mount track bar actually ties in the weld in sfc's. when I get it mounted up this weekend I will Take some pics.

  19. #19
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99bluebird View Post
    Let me know what UMI says about the floor pan stress because they told me "the only time they recommend 3pts is when you run a tunnel mounted torque arm."
    I could be mistaken then.

    And I am sure you could get slightly longer bolts.
    Mine haven't backed out at all, and I am using the bolts provided, so....

  20. #20
    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMoss View Post
    yes,

    why are the weld in that much better. They gave me grade 8 bolts so I tightened them with a impact and they do not and have not moved at all I just don't see how the weld in can be that much stronger.

    You could also weld the bolt ins in they are the same with 2 holes in it.
    asked a iron work about this, and he said "back then when doin a building were just bolted in or rivited. but there would be 50 I beams on each floor spaced about 5 feet apart. then welding came in the picture and there were like 25 I beams and spaced 10 feet apart for the same floor.

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