what do i need for the eibach pro kit

**fast00ls1** · 03-21-2006, 07:02 PM

do ineed the reloction thing and so on for the eibach prokit.

**hotpart.com** · 03-21-2006, 08:36 PM

You might want to consider an adjustable panhard rod to center the rear end back under the chassis. The relocation brackets will drop the rear of your lca's back down which will help with traction during acceleration.

**sills1** · 03-21-2006, 08:44 PM

Make sure to put new shocks if you haven't already. Koni SA's are the ones I would go with if I were you. You can't go wrong with Koni. Change the LCAs too, get the adjustable ones.

**fast00ls1** · 03-21-2006, 09:38 PM

i just bought the car and dont know that much about it what are LCA's

**sills1** · 03-22-2006, 04:47 AM

Lower Control Arms. They keep the rear end level. They are what bolt on to the bottom of the rearend on either side and bolt on to the underside of the body just forward of the rear end. Another part that helps to keep the rearend level is a TA, torque arm. It bolts to the front of the rearend and to the transmission. It runs along side the drive shaft. You may want to get a TA if you lower your car too. What happens when you lower your car is as follows: Your rearend no longer sits in the middle of the car from side to side, that is what the Adjustable Panhard bar is for. Lowering also changes the angle at which your rearend sits. This can cause wheel hop or loss of traction, that is why you put the LCAs on your car. The LCA relocation brackets help get the LCAs level which will also help avoid wheel hop. The shocks that come on these cars from the factory are CRAP. If the springs on the car are stock, then you need to change shocks due to the fact that the stock shocks are not valved for the lowering springs. This will cause some major problems and make your car ride like a sherman tank. After you do all of this, I would suggest getting some SFCs. Subframe connectors (weld in) will stiffin up your car and help keep it from flexing and squeaking when you go over speed bumps and enter drive ways and such. These cars are awesome, but the design is kinda week since they have no frame. If you do all of the above mods, your car will be tough as nails and ready to stand up to your user id name. Good luck

**mrr23** · 03-22-2006, 05:45 PM

the LCA, or trailing arms, are these red things in the pic. as you can see, even at stock height, the rear side is higher than the front side. when the rear is higher than the front side, it will not be as effective at using the wrapping up of the rear to push down on the tires to aide in traction as it would if the rear was lower than the front side.

**TheKitchenSink** · 03-23-2006, 07:06 AM

Would you just need new rear LCA's or front and rear? Im doing the same thing and was gonna go w/ the pro kit, the spohn rear LCA's, the spohn relocation bracket, and the koni adjustable shocks. Would i have to look into front LCA's also or would i be fine without them?

**third_shift|studios** · 03-23-2006, 07:41 AM

Originally Posted by TheKitchenSink

Would you just need new rear LCA's or front and rear? Im doing the same thing and was gonna go w/ the pro kit, the spohn rear LCA's, the spohn relocation bracket, and the koni adjustable springs. Would i have to look into front LCA's also or would i be fine without them?

if you're going to buy LCAs and brackets, just buy adjustable LCA's and save some cash by keeping your stock locations

**TheKitchenSink** · 03-23-2006, 07:45 AM

So your saying if you have adjustable LCA's you dont need the relocation brackets?

**third_shift|studios** · 03-23-2006, 10:43 AM

nope, the adjustables make up the difference-you can "adjust them" to put the differential back into place. I'd get them, but someone fabricated me a set of industructable LCA's and i'm not takin' them off >=D

**mrr23** · 03-23-2006, 01:20 PM

Originally Posted by TheKitchenSink

So your saying if you have adjustable LCA's you dont need the relocation brackets?

you still need the relocation brackets. the adjustable trailing arms allow you to adjust the thrust angle of the rear. thrust angle is the rear of the vehicle being perpindicular to the centerline of the vehicle. ever see a vehicle that looked like the rear of the vehicle was either left or right of the front as it's going down the road?

**Hot Black Trans-Am** · 03-23-2006, 01:55 PM

I thought the adjustable LCA's only centered the tires in the wheel wells.

**mrr23** · 03-23-2006, 01:56 PM

you can do that as well. they will take care of the front to rear difference. the panhard rod takes care of the left to right differences.

**TheKitchenSink** · 03-23-2006, 02:20 PM

Alright cool, does anyone know if the front LCA's are needed to or no? im assuming the stock ones are fine just wanna make sure. Thanks

**Eugenio_SS** · 03-23-2006, 02:37 PM

I'd say good shocks and keep stock LCA/PHR for now.

**fast00ls1** · 03-23-2006, 04:09 PM

if i did lower it could i just use new factory shocks or do i have to get adjustable shocks or something and would there be any problem with camber.

**sills1** · 03-23-2006, 04:20 PM

Originally Posted by fast00ls1

if i did lower it could i just use new factory shocks or do i have to get adjustable shocks or something and would there be any problem with camber.

If you want to keep stock springs, you can lower your car 3/4" by using Koni SAs. You have to remove some spacers and a few other small mods to get the 3/4" but it is worth it. Stranoparts.com is the place to go for good info on F-body suspension. Talk to Sam.

**Eugenio_SS** · 03-23-2006, 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by fast00ls1

if i did lower it could i just use new factory shocks or do i have to get adjustable shocks or something and would there be any problem with camber.

stock shocks are the worse part of the car suspension... getting an upgrade on those will make the ride more confortable and handle better... can't get worse, almost.
Anyways, to address your camber issue, there is no issue @ all.
Our cars can have all 3 settings adjusted (camber, caster, toe)
Also note that stock alignment is meant to induce understeer, and by that fact, they put camber @ 0.0' to +1.0'
wheels look like this \-------/
This causes excessive wear on the outside of the tires.
lowering the car allows you to get more negative camber, allowing you to more easily put the wheels in a /-----\ fashion, which is better, giving you better wear.

As for the shocks, it's better to make sure the shock will match your spring rates.... so before chosing a shock, make sure you made your mind on a spring, unless you want to go adjustable shocks to be able to change damping characteristics in the case of changing spring rates.