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Welded Diff

This is a discussion on Welded Diff within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; What exactly is that? I hear that term a lot with drifters. Any benefits for it?...

  1. #1
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Welded Diff

    What exactly is that?
    I hear that term a lot with drifters.
    Any benefits for it?

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    Its a cheap way to create a spooled rear -- without the spool. The spider gears are welded up so both wheels drive. When we raced dirt back in the day a lot of guys did this to their cars (we ran a spool). It is absolutely not streetable.

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    old timer blue02Z's Avatar
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    aka a lincoln locker!!!!


    take a good ole lincoln welder and weld your side and pinion gears together

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    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Its a cheap way to create a spooled rear -- without the spool. The spider gears are welded up so both wheels drive. When we raced dirt back in the day a lot of guys did this to their cars (we ran a spool). It is absolutely not streetable.
    What makes it not street able?

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    The wheels are locked together and there is no slip. As you turn a corner, the outside wheel needs to turn more as it is covering a greater distance. On dirt, or when the rear is broke loose in a slide, this does not matter. On the street, you either break stuff or it simply skids one of the tires in corners.

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    old timer blue02Z's Avatar
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    have you ever drove a solid axle atv? notice how it tears up the grass on the inside tire?? same thing on perma locked axle there is no differentiating going on

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    I've seen 1 car on the street with a spool gear and I hope to never ride in one. The whole car would jump under the binding while he was pulling out onto the street.

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    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    yeah, with a welded up rear the inside tire would squeel around every turn. it might be something fun to do with your old rear if your getting a new one. once you do it, it wont last long....good for going in a straight line though

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    If you want a streetable setup, check out a Powertrax Lock-Right for the rear. It has a mechanical engagement that locks the wheels together for straight line performance. In corners, the unit disengages and you can hear an audible "click - click - click". No clutches and no cones -- friend has one in his '70 Dart that is a whole lot of fun. Made by Richmond: http://www.powertrax.com/powertrax/lockright.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    If you want a streetable setup, check out a Powertrax Lock-Right for the rear. It has a mechanical engagement that locks the wheels together for straight line performance. In corners, the unit disengages and you can hear an audible "click - click - click". No clutches and no cones -- friend has one in his '70 Dart that is a whole lot of fun. Made by Richmond: http://www.powertrax.com/powertrax/lockright.html
    so those really work I'm thinking about putting one in front and back of my pickup cause even with it in 4low I still got 2 wheel drive one in front one in back

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    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Well I took the car drifting for the hell of it the other day and ran into some problems.
    It seems like when I make turns I am only spinning one wheel and the other just rolls. When I do a burnout both wheels spin no problem but making turns it just seems like only one wheel has any power. (I will post a video later) and yes traction control was off. I also have no front sway bar if that makes a difference.

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    I wouldn't recommend a Powertrax Lock-Right in a drift setup -- probably tear the hell out of the unit eventually. It's best for straight line traction where both wheels are turning the same.

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    Well I am not looking to get the power trax. I am eventually going to go with a mustang 8.8 rear. But in the mean time wnat to know why when I make turns only 1 wheel spins.

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    Why is only one wheel spinning? Because your either don't have a limited slip, or it's just worn out and not putting any power to the outside rear wheel.

    What you want is a limited slip, not a spool. There are different types, all the way to a Locker (which is either all the way open or locked like a spool). Or there are various stages of LSD's like Truetrac, Eaton, Auburn, etc. These days I'm having pretty good luck and durability with the Eaton unit and it's carbon clutches which are much more durable than anything else before.
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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    Well I took the car drifting for the hell of it the other day and ran into some problems.
    It seems like when I make turns I am only spinning one wheel and the other just rolls. When I do a burnout both wheels spin no problem but making turns it just seems like only one wheel has any power. (I will post a video later) and yes traction control was off. I also have no front sway bar if that makes a difference.
    My car does the same thing, we both have Auburn differentials.

    If I take off hard in a straight line, it will lay 2 strips of rubber.

    However, if I'm in a turn and I hit the gas, the inside rear tire will break loose and start spinning.

    I think its due to the clutch material on the cones wearing out in the diff. If the speed differential is too great (like in a turn) it doesn't have enough friction available to keep both wheels spinning at the same speed.

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    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    My car does the same thing, we both have Auburn differentials.

    If I take off hard in a straight line, it will lay 2 strips of rubber.

    However, if I'm in a turn and I hit the gas, the inside rear tire will break loose and start spinning.

    I think its due to the clutch material on the cones wearing out in the diff. If the speed differential is too great (like in a turn) it doesn't have enough friction available to keep both wheels spinning at the same speed.
    Id have to agree with you.

    Only wheel is "spinning" they are both spinning at the same speed, but the outside wheel is covering way more ground, so it keeps traction, while the inside wheel breaks loose

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    My car does the same thing, we both have Auburn differentials.

    If I take off hard in a straight line, it will lay 2 strips of rubber.

    However, if I'm in a turn and I hit the gas, the inside rear tire will break loose and start spinning.

    I think its due to the clutch material on the cones wearing out in the diff. If the speed differential is too great (like in a turn) it doesn't have enough friction available to keep both wheels spinning at the same speed.
    So how can we fix this?
    Yea it sounds just like what I have.
    Or is this pretty normal?

  18. #18
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    So how can we fix this?
    Yea it sounds just like what I have.
    Or is this pretty normal?
    I can't say for sure whether its normal or not, I haven't owned the car since new, so I don't know.

    Its probably not normal though, a limited slip should function as a limited slip regardless of the load variation on each wheel.

    Only way to fix it would be to get a new differential. A good choice would be a Detroit TruTrac, which is a very strong unit and won't wear out like an Auburn (clutch type diff) will.

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    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    I can't say for sure whether its normal or not, I haven't owned the car since new, so I don't know.

    Its probably not normal though, a limited slip should function as a limited slip regardless of the load variation on each wheel.

    Only way to fix it would be to get a new differential. A good choice would be a Detroit TruTrac, which is a very strong unit and won't wear out like an Auburn (clutch type diff) will.
    Well I plan on rigging up a mustang 8.8 rear in the future so I probably won't deal do it. Maybe for the ford rear depending on how it is.

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