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Unbelievable wheelhop -- 2000 WS6 with 155,300 miles...

This is a discussion on Unbelievable wheelhop -- 2000 WS6 with 155,300 miles... within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; This started at about 110,000 miles, and now is HORRENDOUS at 155,000 miles. If I power brake, my rear hops ...

  1. #1
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    2000 Trans Am WS6 A4

    Unbelievable wheelhop -- 2000 WS6 with 155,300 miles...

    This started at about 110,000 miles, and now is HORRENDOUS at 155,000 miles. If I power brake, my rear hops up and down so violently, that you feel like you are sitting on a jackhammer, and all the panels in the car start flexing, the doors shake and feel as though they are about to pop open... I can't remember the last time I was able to truly burn out... it's quite annoying. It's especially bad in reverse, in the rain...

    I have had numerous parts replaced/checked... I had both trailing arms/bushings replaced, as well as the torque arm. That actually made things worse... then I got a set of KYB AGX and set them to 8. Didn't help at all.

    I've tried several different tires, to no avail. Also, I've had the tranny mount replaced several times, (it actually breaks quite often... I don't drive all that hard either.)

    Normally, when I hear people complain about wheel hop, it's because they have a powerful, modified setup... I have the stock motor,with a drag-built tranny. That's it. I'm lucky if I am getting 250hp to the ground.. The car feels very sluggish compared to other low-mile WS6s...

    My ride height is perfect, but when I hit bumps, my car seems to wobble.... starting at the ass and working it's way forward.... Is this a sign I need new springs?

    If I get new springs, I'd like to match my current ride height... How hard is that? Most people talk about drops from stock height, but I would be willing to bet my car is sagging...

    I know many people with 4th-gens, that have stock suspension, and they can burn out all day long, no worries... I have no desire to do that, but it's nice to have the car back in proper condition...

    Thanks in advance!

    -Steven

  2. #2
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    Did you check the motor mounts, u-joints on the drive shaft, and the panhard rod? Did you check the rear axles do they rotate normally? Do they have any excessive play from side to side? Any non normal noises when you rotate them? These are just some things I can think to check right now, since you have done the lower control arms and torque arm.
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    There is no excessive play in the rear axel, as I have checked... I hear a bit of clattering when I go around turns slowly, but I am almost certain this is because my rear shoes (parking) have detonated internally.. my parking brake does not work, and I have had my car in the shop many times for this sound, and they couldn't find anything...

    Forgive my ignorance, but I don't know what the panhard rod is. I do know there is something people call a traction bar sometimes, that mounts to the tranny mount, and bolts up to the rear-end.

    I also have not had the u-joint replaced, but normally I only get this done when I have a clunking under the car... granted, this is the first true performance car I have ever owned...

    And this may come as obvious to most, but what I am pretty sure is happening, is that my differential/axel is twisting, and slamming---but what it hits, I have no idea... are there provisions to stop it? or is it hitting the limits of the u-joints, or what? Sorry for the lack of expertise, but I have all but given up hope on this... I drive my baby like a grandma, and I hate it! I want the fun back in my ride!

    So, do springs with 155k miles on them sound like they could possibly be the culprit? In my experience, normally springs are only bad when the car sags, or you get a lot of ocillation while driving...

  4. #4
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    wow..so your replaced your lower control arms...i would say springs..it seems like your suspension cant absorb/settle the movement

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    The panhard rod is a bar that keeps the rearend from moving from side to side. Its mounted near the top side of the rearend on the passengers it will run up the and attach to the body of the car on the drivers side.

    I was just tiring to think of odd things that could cause the problems I presumed that you have had the normal stuff checked.

    Try the springs, for cheapness go to a junk yard and pull the springs off a car that has been hit. If that fixes it then you can go buy new springs. I know this well require you to do the job twice, but well not make you have a new set of springs that you donít need. Personal Iíd replace the springs anyway with 155K on the car.

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    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    check TA and where it's mounted...
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    Member Fastcar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScrapMaker View Post
    There is no excessive play in the rear axel, as I have checked... I hear a bit of clattering when I go around turns slowly, but I am almost certain this is because my rear shoes (parking) have detonated internally.. my parking brake does not work, and I have had my car in the shop many times for this sound, and they couldn't find anything...
    Is there something wrong internally with your rear axle? Clattering from the rear when you go around turns could mean problems with the limited slip mechanicals....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastcar View Post
    Is there something wrong internally with your rear axle? Clattering from the rear when you go around turns could mean problems with the limited slip mechanicals....
    I thought that too... from the day I bought my car used.

    I have had the differential inspected, and I even had that axle replaced because a bearing was scarring it.

    The only thing I can think of is that the shoes are bad/loose.

    Now... what are symptoms of excessively-worn springs? My car handles fairly well, until I hit bumps, then the car jars left and right, and wobbles, and there is a lot of clunking... does that sound like 155k springs, or something else?


    My gut is telling me that I need new springs... the question is, what springs should I get to match my current ride height?

    Pictures of interest:

    Differential cover off. No real signs of wear.


    New studs, because those three broke off while driving, during a hard turn...


    Shots of my suspension




    Ride Height Reference


  9. #9
    Member 1986camarojoe's Avatar
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    Control arms look stock.. you need new ones, I got the ones from lakewood and my wheelhop went away.

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    umi performance single adjustable lca here with the relocation bracket a good idea to upgrade your suspension ...stock blows

  11. #11
    Jesus died to save you! Killer_bluebird's Avatar
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    Jack the car up and remove the wheels and rotors. On my wifes car we where having some noise but I though that it was the bearing going bad. The the car started acting weird ABS problems started to emerge. I took the wheels and discs off to find that the bracket that holds the E-Brake shoe had broken leaving the shoe to slide around until if found a cozy place between the wheel speed sensor and the sensors gear thingy (it is what the sensor uses to determine the wheel speed) been jammed in between there the shoe proceeded to shave off most of the gear until the sensor had trouble reading the speed of the wheel. Another thing that can happen is that the rear pads sometimes can come off the backing get jammed between the caliper and rotor.
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    Yes, those are the stock replacement LCAs... but you could pull a WS6 off a dealership brand new, and you could burn out all day long...

    I guess my first step is springs... then work my way around with other upgrades... like SFC and STB, even the new LCAs

  13. #13
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    make sure that springs on both sides are well seated on the spring isolator.

  14. #14
    Member 1986camarojoe's Avatar
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    ehhh, i'm about 100% sure it's LCAs.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScrapMaker View Post
    Yes, those are the stock replacement LCAs... but you could pull a WS6 off a dealership brand new, and you could burn out all day long...

    I guess my first step is springs... then work my way around with other upgrades... like SFC and STB, even the new LCAs
    while it is wise to get sfc as soon as possible..i'm 99% sure it isnt going to fix the problem. and with your milage...once you fix this wheel hop issue out...i'd get sfc as soon as possible.

  16. #16
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1986camarojoe View Post
    ehhh, i'm about 100% sure it's LCAs.
    x2

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    Why do y'all think it's the LCAs? Could you not pull a WS6 straight from the factory and not get this kind of wheel hop?

    I'll admit, that there are better LCAs out there, and when I get more intense in my speed endevour, I'll get them... but shouldn't the stock type work like every one elses?

    These have about 15,000 miles on them.

  18. #18
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScrapMaker View Post
    Why do y'all think it's the LCAs? Could you not pull a WS6 straight from the factory and not get this kind of wheel hop?

    I'll admit, that there are better LCAs out there, and when I get more intense in my speed endevour, I'll get them... but shouldn't the stock type work like every one elses?

    These have about 15,000 miles on them.
    well over time/milage the stock stamped lca will get bent. stock is flimsy..but you say the lcas only have 15k on them..hmm, well check your Torque arm and its mounting points..if your ta is bend to shit then it will cause some serious wheel hop issues.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Orcus79's Avatar
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    It is those crappy factory LCAs and panard bar, grip them in the middle and you can flex them with your hand pretty easily. I have a 2002 WS6, that means nothing as the suspenion aside from shocks and sway bars is the same as every other car.

    Axel hop is the axel housing loading the suspension adn the sudden release causes the hop. the componants reach the max flexing point then snap back. this is extreamly ahrd on the car. And yes from reading your responses you do beat on the car.

    If you want to eliminate the hop a full after market set up that is adjustable is the way to go. and it can take the constant abuse being given.

  20. #20
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    dead shocks...
    get better shocks than stock... and should fix it.

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