UMI vs. Founders

[bhunter0830]

So, I am looking at SFC's, PHB and LCA's for my TA.

Question 1. Difference between a 2 point and 3 point SPC
Question 2. Difference between bolt-in, weld on or combo of both weld and bolt.
Question 3. Other than cost and name, is there a true difference between the two companies? I have read a lot of good things about UMI. I haven't seen too much on Founders, however Founders seems to be slightly cheaper. I understand the "you get what you pay for" theory, however does that apply to those parts.

Thanks!

[tatertot91]

I've dealt personally with UMI many times and the parts are top notch. They're always happy to share their knowledge and advice on here as well.
They have my vote

[Spikito]

ive only seen Founders around recently, and some of their stuff is WAY cheaper than UMI. but quality i cant attest too..

[35th-ANV-SS]

I have all BMR parts except for my PHB, which is UMI. Zero problems.

I personally like SFC's to be welded in.

With any new company coming into a market with low prices like Founders, this is typically done by making parts similar to that of big name brands. Key word here is similar.

They could very well use cheaper material such as the metal type. The parts may not have a warranty. The fitment might not be as good. Customer service can be sub-par. All things to consider.

[98maro]

I have founders performance. Product is great, great customer service. Price is great too. IMO that's the right price for the parts.
I have seen umi. Great product as well, but the prices are higher,
I bought lower control arms adj, relo brackets, Panhard bar adj, strut tower brace. And everything works looks great.
My vote is for them.


If you got the cash, then go for umi.

[blackbird0230]

So, I am looking at SFC's, PHB and LCA's for my TA.

Question 1. Difference between a 2 point and 3 point SPC
Question 2. Difference between bolt-in, weld on or combo of both weld and bolt.
Question 3. Other than cost and name, is there a true difference between the two companies? I have read a lot of good things about UMI. I haven't seen too much on Founders, however Founders seems to be slightly cheaper. I understand the "you get what you pay for" theory, however does that apply to those parts.

Thanks!

1.two point has two mounting points and 3 point adds the third mounting point where the tunnel brace goes
2. Bolt in and weld in are self explanatory. Bolt em in with ratchet and sockets or weld in which you better bring a welder.
3. There's a huge difference in cost and I have spohn, UMI, and founders. I found nothing wrong with any one of my pieces as far as quality goes. I have 3 point UMI sfc's and theyve worked awesome the powder coat is starting to chip where it bolts in but that comes with age, I have the founders adjustable LCA's and they feel very solid (I did notice the added noise from the rod ends but I was expecting that) also it might have been from me not greasing up the fittings enough.

In all honesty I would run UMI for everything from upper control arms, sfc's, torque arm, k member, then just run the founders relocation brackets, lca's, and the panhard rod.

I'll buy umi stuff because its reputation has been second to none and I have the product and know it lasts
founders a new company with not too many reviews but doesn't mean they aren't selling a good product.....

[matt evans]

Ive ran setups from both companies. And from what i can tell Founders is right there with UMI. I will say I like the adjustments better on the UMI parts tho.

[2002ssslp]

I like UMI because it works and fits every time. Never an issue. It may cost a little bit more but not having to do the job twice is worth it.

[SuperSSguy]

I have all BMR parts except for my PHB, which is UMI. Zero problems.

I personally like SFC's to be welded in.

With any new company coming into a market with low prices like Founders, this is typically done by making parts similar to that of big name brands. Key word here is similar.

They could very well use cheaper material such as the metal type. The parts may not have a warranty. The fitment might not be as good. Customer service can be sub-par. All things to consider.

Is there any drawbacks to welding them in?..I mean once theyre in is there any reason they would need to be removed?

[UMI Sales]

Hey Benjamin. Thanks for considering UMI for your build.

The 2-point SFC was the industry standard for years and of course works great. With the advent of tunnel mounted torque arms, we saw the need for additional reinforcement in that area. So, the 3-point SFC is simply the next step in stiffening. I usually tell customers that you have zero point to start with so the results from 2-point are 8 out of 10 when compared to 10/10 for 3 point.

Our bolt-in and weld-in is the exact same part. The cost difference is for the hardware. You can weld the bolt-ins at any time. Some customers prefer bolt-in for when they sell their car, they want to retain the UMI for another car. There is no particular drawback to bolt-in otherwise. Our house car runs low-11's on bolt-ins with no flex. You do have to check the bolts once in awhile.

We can't speak for Founders and don't really know much about them. What we do know is we use US Steel, made by 25+ hardworking craftsmen and craftswomen who care. When your welders walk around and show each other their weld is nicer than their neighbors so the next guy tries to make his more perfect, and so on, that's how we roll. We take "fit" seriously and treat every part like it's going on a show car or an 8 second wheel stander.

Let me know if you have any questions.

ramey

So, I am looking at SFC's, PHB and LCA's for my TA.

Question 1. Difference between a 2 point and 3 point SPC
Question 2. Difference between bolt-in, weld on or combo of both weld and bolt.
Question 3. Other than cost and name, is there a true difference between the two companies? I have read a lot of good things about UMI. I haven't seen too much on Founders, however Founders seems to be slightly cheaper. I understand the "you get what you pay for" theory, however does that apply to those parts.

Thanks!

[35th-ANV-SS]

Is there any drawbacks to welding them in?..I mean once theyre in is there any reason they would need to be removed?

Sorry, for some reason my phone did not subscribe me to this thread so I am just now seeing this as I am accessing the site from a computer for the first time in over a month.

There is no drawback to welding in the sub-frame connectors. The only thing that comes to mind is if you want to remove them later on to put them on another car, or sell them. They would be difficult to remove, but still can be done. Jeremy is removing his weld-in SFC's right now on his current build.

Some people with the 3-pt SFC's also have removed them because they purchased an aftermarket exhaust and without the SFC installed there is more room to work with.

I bought the 2-pt weld-in so there is no reason for me to ever remove them and they do not get in the way of any other car components.

Hope this helps.

[SMWS6TA]

I've dealt personally with UMI many times and the parts are top notch. They're always happy to share their knowledge and advice on here as well.
They have my vote

^^^^
This, All of my suspension upgrades have come from UMI. Great guys with lots of knowledge.

Case in point - Last summer I planned to order (all adjustable) LCA's, PHB, Tunnel Mount Torque Arm and DSL/tunnel mount combo. I called UMI up because I had some questions about clearance because my car is lowered. My ORY can't put a 12 oz can under it at it's ;lowest point. After talking with the rep he advised me that the Tunnel Mount Torque Arm and DSL/tunnel mount combo would have serious clearance issues because of how thick the tunnel brace is. So he pointed be to the full length TA and the TA relocation transmission cross-member. This gave me everything I wanted to achieve at that time.

[SuperSSguy]

Sorry, for some reason my phone did not subscribe me to this thread so I am just now seeing this as I am accessing the site from a computer for the first time in over a month.

There is no drawback to welding in the sub-frame connectors. The only thing that comes to mind is if you want to remove them later on to put them on another car, or sell them. They would be difficult to remove, but still can be done. Jeremy is removing his weld-in SFC's right now on his current build.

Some people with the 3-pt SFC's also have removed them because they purchased an aftermarket exhaust and without the SFC installed there is more room to work with.

I bought the 2-pt weld-in so there is no reason for me to ever remove them and they do not get in the way of any other car components.

Hope this helps.

So i have an aftermarket exhaust ( Kooks LTs-catted y and Magnaflow cb) should i get a 2pt SFC`s? you think the 3pt SFC would be hard to put on with the AM exhaust?

[35th-ANV-SS]

Personally, I think 3-pt are overkill unless you plan on auto-crossing a lot. I have a lot of power and 2-pt have worked great for me.

[95cam86roc]

All of my suspension components are UMI with the exception of a front sway bar and torque arm/safety loop. I really like their products.

[2002ssslp]

So, I am looking at SFC's, PHB and LCA's for my TA.

Question 1. Difference between a 2 point and 3 point SPC
Question 2. Difference between bolt-in, weld on or combo of both weld and bolt.
Question 3. Other than cost and name, is there a true difference between the two companies? I have read a lot of good things about UMI. I haven't seen too much on Founders, however Founders seems to be slightly cheaper. I understand the "you get what you pay for" theory, however does that apply to those parts.

Thanks!

Go with 3 point weld in UMI SFC and you will be a happy camper.

- - - Updated - - -

So, I am looking at SFC's, PHB and LCA's for my TA.

Question 1. Difference between a 2 point and 3 point SPC
Question 2. Difference between bolt-in, weld on or combo of both weld and bolt.
Question 3. Other than cost and name, is there a true difference between the two companies? I have read a lot of good things about UMI. I haven't seen too much on Founders, however Founders seems to be slightly cheaper. I understand the "you get what you pay for" theory, however does that apply to those parts.

Thanks!

Go with 3 point weld in UMI SFC and you will be a happy camper.

[pajeff02]

Our car is all UMI - 3 point SFC's, LCA's, panhard, tunnel mount torque arm, K-member, upper and lower control arms. Their stuff fits perfectly and is made right here in PA. I agree that on a street car, 2 points are the way to go. I ran bolt in 2 pts. before upgrading to 3 pts. and the reason for the upgrade was the tunnel mount.

[2002ssslp]

Our car is all UMI - 3 point SFC's, LCA's, panhard, tunnel mount torque arm, K-member, upper and lower control arms. Their stuff fits perfectly and is made right here in PA. I agree that on a street car, 2 points are the way to go. I ran bolt in 2 pts. before upgrading to 3 pts. and the reason for the upgrade was the tunnel mount.

How did the Koni's work out for you ? Have you installed them yet ? If so, do you have them dialed in ?

[KMdef9]

Another vote for UMI here. Perfect fits for my 3 point SFCs, LCAs and panhard.

Also another vote for UMIs customer service.

[UMI Sales]

You guys are great. Thanks for the support!