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Uh Oh, I'm Stuck

This is a discussion on Uh Oh, I'm Stuck within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I need help with the front lower control arm. I'm trying to remove the lower control arm to change the ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Uh Oh, I'm Stuck

    I need help with the front lower control arm. I'm trying to remove the lower control arm to change the bushings.

    I'm stuck. How do you get it off?

    The front bolt hits the little boot thing that covers the inner tie rod? The rear bolt seems to hit the body?

    I need help before I go any farther or just put it back together.

    How do you get the front and rear bolts out? I fear the worst.


    thanks

    kool-aide

  2. #2
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    "Arrest Me Red"
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    im not for sure but it sounds like you may have to drop the k-member.

  3. #3
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    does the rear bolt slide like the front does?

  4. #4
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    The rear bolt should just unscrew out and not hit anything. The front on is a little pain. I had to compress the boot cover some and hammer the bolt out. More than likely you will cut the boot.

  5. #5
    Member robert 98's Avatar
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    When, I removed mine I had the tie rod ends lose so I just turned the steering wheel until I had enough clearance, I think I had to lift the tie rod end up alittle out of the way too.

  6. #6
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    980 Birds
    Well, it hits the body. It's almost as if the rear should slide like the front does so the bolt can clear the body. I can feel and see a slot in the bottom and top like the front has. But mine does not move at all. The front slides back and forth loose and free real easy.


    Robert 98
    Which way did you turn the wheel?

  7. #7
    Member robert 98's Avatar
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    For the passenger side turn the wheel to the left, for the drivers side to the right

  8. #8
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Well the wheel turn helped get the front bolt out.

    Yes, the rear slides just like the front. I just had to persuade it to move, . The other side came off so easy.

    One thing that helped was to take the caliper off so I could take the spindle / knuckle off and get more room.

  9. #9
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    you'll need a special tool for the tie-rod thing to come off, but you'll destroy the booth no matter how well you try to avoid it.
    Just get new rubber boots.
    Eugenio_SS
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

  10. #10
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    I think some one has taken a pickle fork to it before. The boots are already split.

    Well call me crazy but this is what I do to get them separated. I use a small hammer or mallet to tap the top. I back of the castle nut until it is flush with the bolt end. And then tap until it separates.

    I don't think this causes any damage, I hope. It was something that the Haynes book said you could do as a substitute for the pickle fork.

  11. #11
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    the way you do it is the best way to but some time you cant get them apart like that so biger tools is the way to go. but most of the time the taping works. on my stuff i go and replace it if i have to get out the big guns to get it off.

  12. #12
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    ah thanks. I ended up replacing on of the uppers. The bolt would only go half way and then the shaft would start rotating. I was kind of pissed I had to replace a ball joint with only a few weeks on it. But that's what happens when threads get even just a little fowled, oh well. At least it was an upper and I could do that in the garage myself.

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