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Which type of LCAs should I get?

This is a discussion on Which type of LCAs should I get? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; My friend has a set of non adjustable UMI LCAs for 50 bucks. I usually like to get the best ...

  1. #1
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Which type of LCAs should I get?

    My friend has a set of non adjustable UMI LCAs for 50 bucks.

    I usually like to get the best setup, so will these be sufficient? Or should I get adjustables.

    They are bolt in.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    all LCA's will be bolt in....I think you're thinking of sub frame connectors sfc's which are either bolt in or weld in. I run umi non-adjustables in my car with relocation brackets. No issues with mine and I cut a 1.6x 60' time on drag radials so I'm pretty happy with them.

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Thanks Orion, which brand, size, model of DR you use? I want to cut 1.7s with Nittos, but I doubt that will happen. Thinking about using 17" M/Ts or Hoosiers.

    You think i should get the relocation brackets while I am at it or just try these first?

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I have both. I have nitto's for around town and I switch to MT's when I go to the track. I cut 1.7's on nitto's before. I think the line lock made a huge difference and one of these days I'll take the nitto's to the track and see what I cut with them using the line lock. I used to foot brake it when I ran the nitto's and still got a 1.7 but was more of a 1.8 consistently. The line lock and MT's together dropped a tenth off my average 60' times.

    forgot size..... I run 16" wheels. so nittos are 245's and mt's are 255's.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I have both. I have nitto's for around town and I switch to MT's when I go to the track. I cut 1.7's on nitto's before. I think the line lock made a huge difference and one of these days I'll take the nitto's to the track and see what I cut with them using the line lock. I used to foot brake it when I ran the nitto's and still got a 1.7 but was more of a 1.8 consistently. The line lock and MT's together dropped a tenth off my average 60' times.

    forgot size..... I run 16" wheels. so nittos are 245's and mt's are 255's.
    Have you ever tried to dump the clutch with Nitto's? What was the result of that? Did you still experience wheel hop?

    Or have you always slipped the clutch out with the Nitto's?

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Have you ever tried to dump the clutch with Nitto's? What was the result of that? Did you still experience wheel hop?

    Or have you always slipped the clutch out with the Nitto's?
    if I had a clutch I would dump it. I either brake torque the stall or flash the stall on the launch.

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Well he said footbrake, so I'm guessing he is an auto?

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Oh and he is...i got ninja'd!

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Long day...

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Which re-location brackets did you get, or would anyone else recommend?

    Maybe these bolt-ins

    http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=117

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allbaugh_04 View Post
    Which re-location brackets did you get, or would anyone else recommend?

    Maybe these bolt-ins

    http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=117
    I have the umi bolt in relo brackets with the adj lca. Along with the umi 3 point sfc and adj phb. It was all very easy to bolt on.

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    You think you hook better, or have timeslips?

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allbaugh_04 View Post
    You think you hook better, or have timeslips?
    I have no time slips haven't tracked the car yet but i do notice the added traction from a dig with EVERYTHING i added. Keep in mind i added a lot to the car all at once. So its kind of hard to see if one thing did something over another.

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Ok thanks.

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    To give you an idea of what I added:
    all parts are from UMI
    LCA single adjust
    PHB double adjust
    3 point sfc
    LCA relo brackets

    Those parts made a big difference in the car.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Ramairgod84's Avatar
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    so whats the advantage of having adjustable lower control arms? when would you need to adjust them? i plan to order some tomorrow but idk if i should get adjustable or non...i have the sfc, adj phb. ill be getting relocation brackets, lowering springs, and new shocks

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramairgod84 View Post
    so whats the advantage of having adjustable lower control arms? when would you need to adjust them? i plan to order some tomorrow but idk if i should get adjustable or non...i have the sfc, adj phb. ill be getting relocation brackets, lowering springs, and new shocks
    The adj lcas will allow you to center the rear in the wheel well after lowering

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    Senior Member Ramairgod84's Avatar
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    i thought thats what the adj panhard bar was for?

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    I run all BMR with no problems. No wheel hop at the track.

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramairgod84 View Post
    i thought thats what the adj panhard bar was for?
    panhard bar adjusts side to side lca adjusts front to back

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