Torque steer

[JaycenK]

What can I do to get rid of bad torque steer? I know it sounds odd being that it is a rear wheel drive car but I have really bad torque steer in the front end and have had it aligned by gm who made a cradle adjustment that has it better but it is still bad that it can be a hand full to drive down the road. Any Ideas out there?
These are my curent front end settings from my local dealer.

LEFT FRONT Right Front
camber-0.1 0.0

caster 4.4 4.5

Toe .05 0.05

SAI 14.0 14.0

included angle 13.9 14.0

Front
Cross camber -0.1
Cross Caster -0.1
Cross SAI 0.0
Total Toe 0.10

LEFT REAR Right Rear
camber .02 .02
Toe -0.02 0.16

Rear
Cross camber 0.0
Total Toe 0.15
Thrust Angle -0.09
Any help would help

[tremiles]

From my experience, it sounds like you're describing what happens when you have big fat grippy tires and shitty roads with ruts. Not much you can do.

[crossbredfoxbody]

Is the car stock height?

[JaycenK]

Is the car stock height?

stock hight yup.

[crossbredfoxbody]

That don't make no sense. Do you now if the car has ever been wrecked? Have you measured the wheelbase?

[JaycenK]

From my experience, it sounds like you're describing what happens when you have big fat grippy tires and shitty roads with ruts. Not much you can do.

yes I know that feeling but this a bit more. I have had this problem on stock 16inch wheel and 245/60 kumho's and with 17 inch 275/45 nitto.

I rebuilt the front end and no change on stock wheels. Had a crack wheel so went with zr1 style wheel. didn't get any worse. The only thing I have not replaced on the front end that has to do with steering the car is the column, sway bar and the PS pump. Rack, inner and outer tie rods, ball joints, bushings (Polly) in uper and lower control arms + all swaybar bushings and rear controll arm bushings as well as panhard bushings. All polly and none of it has made a big dent in the problem. It feels lke I have a little play in the wheel before the car responds. I have chnaged the intermidiate shaft going from the collumn end to the rack New GM. The car was wrecked but fixed by Chevy. It was not that bad, my step dad rolled into a tree with the right front wheel and it snapped the outer tie rod. I changed the rack thinking this might have been a problem but it did not fix it. The only part that I have not replaced on that side is the sway bar. It might be bent It was hard to line up but as a roll bar, I don't really see how it would cause this. The lower control arm was replaced because the guy at chevy that I had press in the new ball joints actually bent it tring to get the old one out. I am stumped it is to much of a hand full to be the normal torque steer that you get with wide tires. any thoughts would help.

[JaycenK]

That don't make no sense. Do you now if the car has ever been wrecked? Have you measured the wheelbase?

no but I figured the align ment messures that but then again I no this by now I should not assume.

[crossbredfoxbody]

All you get most of the time is a two wheel alignment with a rear wheel drive. I grew up around my dad and he's been a body man for 35 years something sounds fishy. I would check wheelbase IMOA

[0rion]

are you talking about it wandering as it goes down the road? Most likely just due to the width of the tires and the condition of the roads. Mine does the same thing...it'll kinda wander in the ruts as you're driving down the road. Most noticeable at stop lights and signs.

[JaycenK]

are you talking about it wandering as it goes down the road? Most likely just due to the width of the tires and the condition of the roads. Mine does the same thing...it'll kinda wander in the ruts as you're driving down the road. Most noticeable at stop lights and signs.

well yea it wonders but not normal really. this isn't the first wide tire car I have owned but it is rather quick when it does it and as I correct for it with the wheel the car will not respond that fast and some times jump the other way. It is a very violent back and forth like I am over corecting but no matter how much wheel or how little wheel I use it always jumps back as if over correcting. It will do it anytime I am on a rutted road but it is bad enough that I am almost changing lanes when it happens. So your talking about one side of the lane back to the other. Maybe not that dramatic but if I don't correct it when it happens I will be quickly in the next lane. It tracks like an arrow with + toe with normal light pulling in ruts, go figure. after I changed the rack I had it eyeballed and it drove great because I was off on the toe with + toe but I just cant remember how much it was. I changed wheels after I got it aligned so I had a fresh set of tires on it.

[SOMbitch]

If you are talking about 'trammeling" or "tramlining" I run 1/16" toe in and found it greatly reduced it on my car to the point it is almost nonexistent.

Go to post #9 here and there is a good write up>>>>http://www.tyresmoke.net/forum/vw-go...ramlining.html

[JaycenK]

GOOD GOD MAN, it took me 10 minutes to figure out what a Tyres was. well my good lad I think I'm going to go pour my self a cup of tea now, Care to join me? very well toodles. LOL sry I found that half way through it I was reading in my head with a british accent. I am going to rotate the TYRES from front to back and see if I had memory in them since the backs have never been on the front. Then I will look at the toe settings and the rubber in the strut .... thingies. Thanks for the article

[JaycenK]

If you are talking about 'trammeling" or "tramlining" I run 1/16" toe in and found it greatly reduced it on my car to the point it is almost nonexistent.

Go to post #9 here and there is a good write up>>>>http://www.tyresmoke.net/forum/vw-go...ramlining.html

hey also how is your TYRES wear with that 1/16th toe in?

[SOMbitch]

hey also how is your TYRES wear with that 1/16th toe in?

I notice no increased tire wear. 11k on my 275 Rikon Raptors and all is even across the board. I rotate at every other oil change which is 5-6K so that may help.... Anyway it has worked well for me.....