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Torque arms what to choose?

This is a discussion on Torque arms what to choose? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Originally Posted by pajeff02 I don't remember the exact setup, but you could probably add a lock washer or switch ...

  1. #41
    PONYTAMER 99ss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I don't remember the exact setup, but you could probably add a lock washer or switch over to a nylock nut on whichever bolts are coming loose. Should be able to find either to fit your setup in any good hardware or automotive store.

    As far as SFC's go, it depends on what you want to do with the car -- if your plans include autocrossing or drag racing, with a tunnel mount torque arm, you'll want a 3 point setup. Other than that, a 2 point SFC would be the way to go. Your next choice is bolt in or weld in. For ease of install, you can not beat the bolt in set up, which can also be welded should you choose to do so. In either case, you need the weight of the car on its suspension to properly install SFC's -- do not do it on a two post lift or with the car jacked up on one end. I personally went with UMI 2 point bolt in SFC's on our car. They fit up flush under the body and the whole install took just over 30 minutes.
    thanks an yeah think i might just go ahead an get a new arm to make it look cleaner under the car anyway an the 2 point is fine i dont plan on draging it other then just to see what it will run when i got the car this is what i was told it has

    ls7 clutch an pressure plate fly wheel mcleode adjustable

    pro 5.0 shifter with knob

    slp lid

    hooker long tube headers

    pacessetter ory

    borlas catback (dont think it is though it looks like the texas horse power or what ever it is)

    224/230 cam lift .591 112 lsa

    comp pushrods

    patriot valve springs

    ls6 intake ms6 plugs an wires an lowered 1.5 with lime green shocks not sure what they are but have been told they were pricey

    dont no much about the ls1 only had it for 2 1/2 months

  2. #42
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I have the BMR Trak Pak with the 9"...No issues with mine at all. Have had it on about 6 months now.

    No inside noise in the car as a result of this install either, at least that I can hear over my Kooks LTs and LM2.


  3. #43
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99ss View Post
    thanks an yeah think i might just go ahead an get a new arm to make it look cleaner under the car anyway an the 2 point is fine i dont plan on draging it other then just to see what it will run when i got the car this is what i was told it has

    ls7 clutch an pressure plate fly wheel mcleode adjustable

    pro 5.0 shifter with knob

    slp lid

    hooker long tube headers

    pacessetter ory

    borlas catback (dont think it is though it looks like the texas horse power or what ever it is)

    224/230 cam lift .591 112 lsa

    comp pushrods

    patriot valve springs

    ls6 intake ms6 plugs an wires an lowered 1.5 with lime green shocks not sure what they are but have been told they were pricey

    dont no much about the ls1 only had it for 2 1/2 months
    that is a nice list of parts on your car some one was doing it right. just make sure to ask for a lot of info befor you get stuff and keep up with the good parts. as for parts like the ta and sfc i like umi stuff i have the umi 3 point bolt ons and love them. also you can get them from ky speed a sponser on this bord and he will get you a good price.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I have the BMR Trak Pak with the 9"...No issues with mine at all. Have had it on about 6 months now.

    No inside noise in the car as a result of this install either, at least that I can hear over my Kooks LTs and LM2.

    Click for full size

    Sweet set up Jon. What does the crossbar mount to? BTW: Aren't you supposed to be on a plane flying west?

  5. #45
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Sweet set up Jon. What does the crossbar mount to? BTW: Aren't you supposed to be on a plane flying west?
    I leave on the 15th.

    Cross brace is welded to the SFC's.

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    PONYTAMER 99ss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01 T/A View Post
    that is a nice list of parts on your car some one was doing it right. just make sure to ask for a lot of info befor you get stuff and keep up with the good parts. as for parts like the ta and sfc i like umi stuff i have the umi 3 point bolt ons and love them. also you can get them from ky speed a sponser on this bord and he will get you a good price.
    thanks im sure theres other things done to but im not sure of it all i want to do the sfc an ta next an then the rear end =) by the time all thats done im going to want a new engine with all ls7 an ls9 parts im wanting to get around 600-800hp ive got 405 to the wheels is what he told me when i bought it

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    PONYTAMER 99ss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01 T/A View Post
    that is a nice list of parts on your car some one was doing it right. just make sure to ask for a lot of info befor you get stuff and keep up with the good parts. as for parts like the ta and sfc i like umi stuff i have the umi 3 point bolt ons and love them. also you can get them from ky speed a sponser on this bord and he will get you a good price.
    also theres a guy over here close to tulsa that has a 2002 slp camaro he has about 14 grand in to it super clean its all blacked out with 18x11 17x8.5 chrome z06 rims he used all umi parts under neath for sfc shocks springs ta it was all red chrome exhaust an the black body very clean

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    Member beach cruiser's Avatar
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    Have you guys ever seen this? Not sure how good it would be for pure drag racing, but the guys doing road courses and autox's swear by it. http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

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    Quote Originally Posted by beach cruiser View Post
    Have you guys ever seen this? Not sure how good it would be for pure drag racing, but the guys doing road courses and autox's swear by it. http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/
    Someone I know that autox's wanted to get one of these but I don't know if he ever got around to it. Those things are damn expensive.

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    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    thats the 1st time for me i would have to talk with some one that has it befor i would buy one. did you get any pics of the black ss?

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    PONYTAMER 99ss's Avatar
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    how much do they run for an what dose this do just because its shorter?

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    I assume you are talking about the unbalanced engineering torque arm? The website explains is pretty well, but in a nut shell, it acts like a shorter bar under accleration, causing the rear end to plant better, and under breaking the pickup points to the body move and it acts like a much longer bar preventing rear wheel brake hop that the f bodies have when road racing. price is on the website

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    Quote Originally Posted by beach cruiser View Post
    I assume you are talking about the unbalanced engineering torque arm? The website explains is pretty well, but in a nut shell, it acts like a shorter bar under accleration, causing the rear end to plant better, and under breaking the pickup points to the body move and it acts like a much longer bar preventing rear wheel brake hop that the f bodies have when road racing. price is on the website
    so would that make that much off a difference if you got this instead of getting new torque arm an rear end an sub frame connectors

    an still see no price

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    My bad, price was on the page one layer up on the site. "We currently offer this arm for 1993-2002 F-bodies powdercoated in black. Cost $820"

    Depends on what kind of racing you intend to do, it's overkill for a street only car. It helps the car bite under acceleration, my car doesn't have it and I tend to smoke the tires coming out of a corner, and the other part it helps is rear wheel brake hop under hard braking. Purly Drag racing, I'm not sure if it would do much for the cost.

    Call and talk to Jason, he's the owner of UE. He'll tell you straight up if it's worth it for you or not. His email is info@UnbalancedEngineering.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by beach cruiser View Post
    My bad, price was on the page one layer up on the site. "We currently offer this arm for 1993-2002 F-bodies powdercoated in black. Cost $820"

    Depends on what kind of racing you intend to do, it's overkill for a street only car. It helps the car bite under acceleration, my car doesn't have it and I tend to smoke the tires coming out of a corner, and the other part it helps is rear wheel brake hop under hard braking. Purly Drag racing, I'm not sure if it would do much for the cost.

    Call and talk to Jason, he's the owner of UE. He'll tell you straight up if it's worth it for you or not. His email is info@UnbalancedEngineering.com
    yeah i dont go to the drags much just when i do big up grades or to watch an any other racing is just on highway an back ways

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    What Would Earl Do? Vexzer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I asked this same question and was advised that it increases vibration and harshness.
    But I LOVE to hear the gear whine that's transmitted through my BMR from my Strange 12-Bolt with 390's. I can hear the clutches squeak when I turn. With that, the cam and the exhaust, I never turn on the radio! The mechanical cacaphony is my music!

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    PONYTAMER 99ss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I don't remember the exact setup, but you could probably add a lock washer or switch over to a nylock nut on whichever bolts are coming loose. Should be able to find either to fit your setup in any good hardware or automotive store.

    As far as SFC's go, it depends on what you want to do with the car -- if your plans include autocrossing or drag racing, with a tunnel mount torque arm, you'll want a 3 point setup. Other than that, a 2 point SFC would be the way to go. Your next choice is bolt in or weld in. For ease of install, you can not beat the bolt in set up, which can also be welded should you choose to do so. In either case, you need the weight of the car on its suspension to properly install SFC's -- do not do it on a two post lift or with the car jacked up on one end. I personally went with UMI 2 point bolt in SFC's on our car. They fit up flush under the body and the whole install took just over 30 minutes.
    on the sfc im confused on how you put them on with out jacking the car up mine is about an inch from the ground an i cant even get my arm under it

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99ss View Post
    on the sfc im confused on how you put them on with out jacking the car up mine is about an inch from the ground an i cant even get my arm under it
    It is usally recommended you do not fully torque the bolts till the car is one the ground. This will let the unibody "settle". You can get around this buy supporting the car under the rear axle and at the suspension arms so that it sits level and the weight is on the suspension instead of the frame as it would be on the ground.

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    I used a 4-post lift at a friend's shop for my install. As mentioned above, a set of jackstands under the rear axle and then large wooden blocks or ramps under the front wheels will work. The goal is to tighten the SFC's down with everything where it should be and not under any torsion.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99ss View Post
    on the sfc im confused on how you put them on with out jacking the car up mine is about an inch from the ground an i cant even get my arm under it
    Easiest thing to do is get 4 bricks for each wheel and stack them 2 wide one length wise with car the next perpendicular in whatever order. I don't know how you jack your car up but mine being lowered and not wanting to do put the car off balance I drove it up on some blocks(wood, bricks whatever) put the jack under the k-member and did the front then raised the back. It gave me plenty of room to do my sfc's.

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