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Torque arm problems

This is a discussion on Torque arm problems within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; So I did the clutch on my camaro. yesterday on a rough road my torque arm came loose at the ...

  1. #1
    Member Orange99z28's Avatar
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    orange
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    Torque arm problems

    So I did the clutch on my camaro. yesterday on a rough road my torque arm came loose at the front bracket on the tailshaft. the bolt is gone and i have no idea what kind of bolt it was. if anyone can help me out i'd greatly appreciate it. torque arm is being held by a ratchet strap so i can get to work...

    or if there's a cheaper alternative to the 200+ relocation kit

  2. #2
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    Best bet is to get the mount off the transmission -- either a transmission x-member mount or a tunnel mount is preferred. Costs a few dollars but is far better than a broken transmission.

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, you wanna play you gotta pay...

    The factory torque arm is a joke, suitable for not much more than holding the rear end in place.

    And, if all you want to do is replace the bolt then try calling the dealer. They may be able to help.
    67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...

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    Member Orange99z28's Avatar
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    damn money pit.. just got back from returning the caliper cores from my brake job. tapped the gas to test how much the ratchet strap would hold.. not even 1/8th pedal tap.. probably gonna order relocation kit, any way better than others? i'm looking at

    1998 - 2002 GM F-Body Torque Arm Relocation Kit - Manual
    Starting at: $239.99

    from umi, looks like its a direct bolt-on (with bushing). could i just have someone weld a stronger one on from the dif. to the tunnel? sounds crazy pricey for a very simple piece of metal.. i'm having a hard time swallowing it after clutch brakes, and the rims i haven't bought yet that i'm probably not gonna be able to afford at this rate

  5. #5
    Member xmarkx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orange99z28 View Post
    damn money pit.. just got back from returning the caliper cores from my brake job. tapped the gas to test how much the ratchet strap would hold.. not even 1/8th pedal tap.. probably gonna order relocation kit, any way better than others? i'm looking at

    1998 - 2002 GM F-Body Torque Arm Relocation Kit - Manual
    Starting at: $239.99

    from umi, looks like its a direct bolt-on (with bushing). could i just have someone weld a stronger one on from the dif. to the tunnel? sounds crazy pricey for a very simple piece of metal.. i'm having a hard time swallowing it after clutch brakes, and the rims i haven't bought yet that i'm probably not gonna be able to afford at this rate
    it's not just a simple piece of metal. I just got mine recently. it's a very strong piece with thick welds. it's an integral part of your suspension as well.

  6. #6
    Member Orange99z28's Avatar
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    i'm ordering the kit right now, but would anyone know what kind of bolt that is that locks the t/a bracket closed? my beater is in the shop so i have to drive the camaro

  7. #7
    old timer blue02Z's Avatar
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    If your using a ratchet strap and driving it your probably gonna end up with a broken extenion housing or a hole thru your floor. Moral of story: Make sure you tighten everything up and go over it like 3 times to make sure u didnt forget everything. Btw i am not trying to be an ass

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Orange99z28 View Post
    i'm ordering the kit right now, but would anyone know what kind of bolt that is that locks the t/a bracket closed? my beater is in the shop so i have to drive the camaro
    Hello
    You can always just remove the stock mounting bracket. Yeah it has a exhaust mount that comes off of it. But a lot of guys just remove it. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
    Thanks
    Brad

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    Member Orange99z28's Avatar
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    well, still no word on the bolt from anyone. tried ordering umi, credit card issues.. ended up getting it next day for 20$ shipping from summit. no picture of the needed bolt, but the guy claims it includes all needed hardware so i'm being optimistic.

    i think the ratchet strap was brilliant. for those of us that aren't independently wealthy, sometimes we need to get to work or lose our job.. and they were torqued down with a new torque wrench (chilton torque values). i just read that you wanna over torque the hell out of that bolt bolt for obvious reasons

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    I have the bolt from mine when I removed the bracket to convert to a tunnel mount torque arm. Would have to dig through my spare parts bin to find it...

  11. #11
    Member Orange99z28's Avatar
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    thanks, i think i'm good though. new crossmember with ta mount w/hardware is going to be here when i wake up

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Let me know how it fits. I have issues with mine. The part were you put the bushing hits the floor off the car. I tried molding the metal but is alot and is hard without a lift. Mine is for A4. I'm having some vibration and clunk noises.
    I'm going to check everything again on Saturday but Im almost sure I'm going to end up putting the stock one back to test. thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    Let me know how it fits. I have issues with mine. The part were you put the bushing hits the floor off the car. I tried molding the metal but is alot and is hard without a lift. Mine is for A4. I'm having some vibration and clunk noises.
    I'm going to check everything again on Saturday but Im almost sure I'm going to end up putting the stock one back to test. thanks
    I saw your other thread you posted. My guess is you have your issue nailed down. Your TA is so close to your floorboard that all that added vibration is coming into the car now. Also, since it is so close, every bump or acceleration/deceleration you hit or do is going to make the TA contact. Only way to prevent it is to massage the metal out of the way.

    A lot of us guys running tunnel mounted TA's also has to massage our panels to create clearance.

  14. #14
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply. I will work alittle more on it tomorrow. Thanks.

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    Money pit? It's called maintenance, the rest is was caused by a piss poor job of putting it back together. sorry to be so blunt
    Quote Originally Posted by Orange99z28 View Post
    damn money pit.. just got back from returning the caliper cores from my brake job. tapped the gas to test how much the ratchet strap would hold.. not even 1/8th pedal tap.. probably gonna order relocation kit, any way better than others? i'm looking at

    1998 - 2002 GM F-Body Torque Arm Relocation Kit - Manual
    Starting at: $239.99

    from umi, looks like its a direct bolt-on (with bushing). could i just have someone weld a stronger one on from the dif. to the tunnel? sounds crazy pricey for a very simple piece of metal.. i'm having a hard time swallowing it after clutch brakes, and the rims i haven't bought yet that i'm probably not gonna be able to afford at this rate

  16. #16
    Hello
    I noticed you were having issues with your torque arm. And I would like to thank you for choosing UMI Performance we really appreciate the business. Yes the Summit Racing sales person was correct, when you do purchase a torque arm relocation cross member from UMI it does include all of the hardware. The replacement clam-shell bolts are a little tricky but as long as you got a poly bushing as well you should not have any issues. You will also just reuse your factory cross member hardware (4 bolts and transmission nut). If you have any questions during the installation feel free to give me a call and I will be more than glad to help. I will be in the office M-F 8am-4:30pm EST.
    Thanks
    Brad

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