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Thread: torque arm issues
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06-15-2015, 04:02 AM #1
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
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- Iowa
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- 6
red- 2000 Trans Am LS1
torque arm issues
ok so recently i installed a 9" ford in my 2000 trans am, and when i did i also installed a spohn adjustable torque arm. took some minor modification to get clearance between where the torque arm mounts to the rear end and the floor pan but thought all was well, but when i went on the hot rod power tour i found that as i hit sharp bumps in the road the body would come down and hit the torque arm mount in the rear where it mounts to the rear end. on my way home it hit hard enough to tear a hole in the floor pan. m question is has anyone else had this problem and if so what are any possible fixes? thanks stoney 0803.
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06-15-2015, 03:24 PM #2
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- Jun 2011
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- Branchville, NJ
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Silver & Blue- 02 Camaro SS, 04 GTO
Did you contact Spohn about this issue ? There is nothing right about your problem with the torque arm.
My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k
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06-15-2015, 05:25 PM #3
Our tunnel mount torque arm, bolted to a Moser 12 bolt, also touched our floor pan slightly on full compression. I noticed this shortly after installation and simply ground the corner down a bit for some added clearance. Things are tight back there and not at all surprised that there are some minor clearance issues with beefier components. Are you still running your bump stops? Are they intact?
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06-15-2015, 06:20 PM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
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- Iowa
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- 6
red- 2000 Trans Am LS1
yes i did they told me to make sure i was using the bolt holes that were closest to the drivers side of the mount so i cut the bracket off so i could slide it over to the set of holes they were talking about and it still hits. think i have a plan to fix it by remanufacturing the mounting point on the rear end and cutting the floor pan and remaking that as well. was just wondering if anyone else was having any issues like this.
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06-15-2015, 06:22 PM #5
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- Feb 2011
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- Iowa
- Posts
- 6
red- 2000 Trans Am LS1
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06-15-2015, 07:37 PM #6
Most people use the BFH mod and add clearance in the tunnel area by pounding on the floor pan to "create" clearance.
Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.
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06-16-2015, 02:41 AM #7
Now that you mention it Jon, I may have done just a little BFH'ing as well.
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06-16-2015, 06:47 AM #8
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
BFH here too.
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06-16-2015, 04:06 PM #9
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- Branchville, NJ
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Silver & Blue- 02 Camaro SS, 04 GTO
BFH or maybe the gas ax.
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06-19-2015, 10:35 AM #10
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06-19-2015, 10:39 AM #11
Jeff used UMI and I have the BMR Trak Pak. I honestly think it's just inherent to the design. I don't think everyone encounters the issue, but many do.
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06-19-2015, 10:48 AM #12
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
torque arm issues
UMI here as well. my only issue with it is not because of the brace. it's correct. My issue is with the custom 8.8 rear. It fits and all just its a little over too much to the drivers side.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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06-20-2015, 04:33 AM #13
Just how things are under there. Not a big deal imo - just keep an eye on clearances and adjust where you have to. Easy test would be to pop the shocks off, remove the springs and then run the rear end up and down through its full range of travel to see if anything hits. Be sure to check it with the bump stops in place and use lift points at the center, on the right and on the left so that you know for certain if anything is going to hit.
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