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which torque arm to go with...

This is a discussion on which torque arm to go with... within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I'm in the final processes of redoing all rear suspension, springs, qa1s, linkage, sways etc and one thing still eludes ...

  1. #1
    Member goof4080's Avatar
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    which torque arm to go with...

    I'm in the final processes of redoing all rear suspension, springs, qa1s, linkage, sways etc and one thing still eludes me.

    The car will continue to be autox'd and track driven only now... so the question is which torque arm do I go with?

    I'm looking for roadcourse only turning and braking manners mainly.

    I'm looking at the moly umi adjustable

    93-02 UMI Tunnel Brace Mounted Torque Arm w/ DSL - LT Headers
    93-02 UMI Tunnel Brace Mounted Torque Arm w/ DSL - LT Headers | WS6store.com
    2201a.jpg
    but the question is, Is this torque arm shorter than the stock one?

    would it be better to order the transmission mount relocation bracket for the torque arm instead and get the longer transmission mount bar?

    or what about the sphoon adjustable 93-02 Fbody Spohn Performance Pro-Series Adjustable Torque Arm - Long Tube Headers/Y-Pipe [405-PS]
    93-02 Fbody Spohn Performance Pro-Series Adjustable Torque Arm - Long Tube Headers/Y-Pipe | WS6store.com
    405-ps.jpg
    It looks alot more heavy duty compared to the UMI.

    For my racing purposes which Torque Arm is better for me? UMI or Sphoon

    or I read about the dis-jointed torque arm once...

  2. #2
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I think for road racing applications you would be better off with a full-length torque arm. Tunnel mount torque arms (shorter) are more geared for drag racing.

    Either way, I would get the relocation bracket for the front mounting of the torque arm. You do not want it bolted to the transmission tailshaft.

  3. #3
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I got the UMI full length with the relocation kit and love it.

    Don't let the pics fool you the UMI one is pretty beefy.

    Jon's right in getting it off the tail cone of the tranny.


    I went the full length route because after talking to the tech guy at UMI we determined I would plow everything if I got the Tunnel Brace mount with a short TA because of clearance issues.

    If you are lowered or plan on lowering you will have issues too. A quick way to check is take a soda can and see how much clearance you have right now with your current set up.


    If you still have doubts give UMI a call and talk with the tech dept. They will answer all questions.







    Here is what it looks like mounted.


  4. #4
    Member goof4080's Avatar
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    I was thinking the tunnel mounts significantly shorter. How is the bushing/ mounting options on the relocation cross member? Which Looks like it replaces the original trans crossmember?

  5. #5
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Mine is lowered and I had to modify the cross-member some. No issues since. I have the tunnel type. The cross-member on mine is a separate piece which ties into my sub-frame connectors. The UMI units mount right to the underside of the car.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    I use the Spohn full legnth. I can't stand the noise from tunnel mounted torque arms, had a Spohn one and sold it quickly. I also had the UMI relocation crossmember to use in conjunction with my full legnth but hated that too for the same reasons. I've been running my full length mounted to the tranny for years with no issues.





  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by goof4080 View Post
    I'm in the final processes of redoing all rear suspension, springs, qa1s, linkage, sways etc and one thing still eludes me.

    The car will continue to be autox'd and track driven only now... so the question is which torque arm do I go with?

    I'm looking for roadcourse only turning and braking manners mainly.

    I'm looking at the moly umi adjustable

    93-02 UMI Tunnel Brace Mounted Torque Arm w/ DSL - LT Headers
    93-02 UMI Tunnel Brace Mounted Torque Arm w/ DSL - LT Headers | WS6store.com
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2201a.jpg 
Views:	21 
Size:	32.9 KB 
ID:	23803
    but the question is, Is this torque arm shorter than the stock one?

    would it be better to order the transmission mount relocation bracket for the torque arm instead and get the longer transmission mount bar?

    or what about the sphoon adjustable 93-02 Fbody Spohn Performance Pro-Series Adjustable Torque Arm - Long Tube Headers/Y-Pipe [405-PS]
    93-02 Fbody Spohn Performance Pro-Series Adjustable Torque Arm - Long Tube Headers/Y-Pipe | WS6store.com
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	405-PS.jpg 
Views:	21 
Size:	49.1 KB 
ID:	23802
    It looks alot more heavy duty compared to the UMI.

    For my racing purposes which Torque Arm is better for me? UMI or Sphoon

    or I read about the dis-jointed torque arm once...
    Hi Goof480.

    As mentioned above, full length is usually better for auto-x/road race applications.

    Here are some pics of our 2205 and 2207 installed on a house car.

    2002 Camaro SS : UMI Performance, Inc.

    The bushing is poly and it mounts on the nose of the round tube on the T/A and is enclosed in a rectangular clamp on the bracket. Same situation as factory but instead of a W shape internal portion it's round.

    As for which is better, of course we think UMI is the best available. And as for the decoupled torque arm, I'm sure there is some merit to that technology but unfortunately we don't manufacture that style. Our 2205/2207 is bulletproof and works well under heavy braking.

    Let me know if you have any other questions.

    thanks

    ramey
    Ramey Womer
    Product Development Engineer
    ramey@umiperformance.com
    814.343.6315
    Join us on Facebook!


  8. #8
    Member goof4080's Avatar
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    Thanks Ramey and thanks to all. Great pictures too!

    My damn budget for this project keeps going up n up. As usual.

    I guess I'll really have some hard thinking to do as I prep the car. The way it looks to me a de coupled t/a is only about 100 more than the umi full length n relocation bracket combo. And if I got those then I'd still need a loop.....

    I wonder how noisy or prone to breaking a decoupled t/a is.

    And then there's that tempting watts link...

    All continued input is welcome. The car is up and getting cleaned, undercoated and pretty much gutted in my spare time. Ill post pics and updates as I go, if I remember

    Thanks again,
    Geoff

  9. #9
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Im running the tunnel brace with the relocation kit with 500rwhp and it's not noisy at all...and I'm lowered. Undercarriage needed a little massaging though for clearance. BFH mod. Usually the full length is quiter though as it transmits less noise into the cabin because there is more clearance and due to its design.

  10. #10
    Member Redrokit8's Avatar
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    It looks alot more heavy duty compared to the UMI.

    For my racing purposes which Torque Arm is better for me? UMI or Sphoon

    or I read about the dis-jointed torque arm once..


    Trust me, the UMI Torque Arm is one heavy duty piece of equipment. I could't believe how heavy, weight wise, it was. I also could't believe that I got it installed working alone on my back. Installing all this stuff has been some learning experience for me.

  11. #11
    Member goof4080's Avatar
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    It sure is fun.... so when cleaning the greazy mess that is my undercarriage I noticed my stock torque arm has was looks to be welded nuts that are the receptacle for a torque arm mounted DS loop? No loop anymore. Is this normal? Pics on phone now. Will post later.

    Also knew I had a leaking not weaping diff but now i'm trying to figure out where the hydraulic fluid is coming from near the rear of my trans. Quite messy there...history, i found low master fluid a year ago after a stuck pedal but no probs since...

    Never did bleed it out yet either, just a gravity bleed for a month n presto chango. That bleeder is too damn difficult to get to.

    Sorry I type like a fool while on my phone in the garage.
    Last edited by goof4080; 03-12-2012 at 05:25 PM.

  12. #12
    The Generals Finest Deviant LS1's Avatar
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    If you're into autoxing and roadcoursing you want a full length torque arm. A chassis mounted short torque arm can cause brake induced wheel hop. I would also recommend the relocation crossmemeber. Get the torque arm mount off the the tail shaft.

    Those mounting nuts/holes are for a driveshaft carrier bearing. Most V6 fbodies came with two piece drive shafts and thats were the carrier bearing would mount. All the factory torque arms I've seen have those holes but some people claim there cars didn't come with them. I'm pretty sure there is only one part number for the torque arm.

  13. #13
    Member goof4080's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deviant LS1:2755710
    If you're into autoxing and roadcoursing you want a full length torque arm. A chassis mounted short torque arm can cause brake induced wheel hop. I would also recommend the relocation crossmemeber. Get the torque arm mount off the the tail shaft.

    Those mounting nuts/holes are for a driveshaft carrier bearing. Most V6 fbodies came with two piece drive shafts and thats were the carrier bearing would mount. All the factory torque arms I've seen have those holes but some people claim there cars didn't come with them. I'm pretty sure there is only one part number for the torque arm.
    Oh thank god. I was starting to wonder about this cars history again. I couldn't find any stock photos showing them. Got distracted watching under seige so ill post my photos tomorrow instead of working

  14. #14
    Member goof4080's Avatar
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    Here is what I was talking about and the carrier for the 2 part DS makes sense


    And here's the rest of what I'm up against forgot to take the before pic, but u can see some remnants of the thick gunk and then the rust that has started after 14 Chicago winters...
    Hopefully I won't have to cut and patch too much..




    Seems like every damn spot weld is starting to rust through....oh well resto # 3 begins.

    And wow photobucket and ls1.com apps FTW!
    Last edited by goof4080; 03-12-2012 at 10:51 PM.

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