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Thread: Tire gripping launches ???
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12-27-2005, 07:59 AM #1lt4everGuest
Tire gripping launches ???
What kind of set up will I need for hard off the line launches that will practically eliminate tire spin? (I'm pushing 330 rwhp & 319 ft/lbs)
Currently, I have weld in BMR boxed style SFC, along with BMR, boxed style LCA and Goodyear drag radials on 16" rims.
I'm thinking of Koni DA's in the rear (considering this is a street car as well, I don't want to lower the car with a pro kit, b/c my headers are only 4" from the ground and I'd be afraid to bash my headers/ Y-pipe if I were running only 2.5" of ground clearance.) A Spohn adjustable torque arm with the pinion angle set around -2.5*. Wider 18" rear tires... something like 295-35-18 with a really good sticky/ drag radial tire. I'd like to shy away from getting a 12 bolt if I can get away with it. I also think 4-link suspension and mini-tub would be overkill. But I'm currently building a blown 383.
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01-03-2006, 04:12 PM #2
don't need a 12 bolt. i'm still on 10 bolts in both cars. wider tires, yes. going up from 16" to 18" will result in less sidewall. you need a taller sidewall to absorb the shock from launching the car. as you can see, i run mid 11's on 245/50-16 nitto DRs as it is now. get the relocation brackets to help out more. also, remove the front sway bar. this way the front of the car will come up higher during the launch.
Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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01-04-2006, 02:13 AM #3
well you could always cruise the streets on the 18's and get some drag lites with DRs.
Also if you want to lower your car. It really depends on what exhaust system you have. A lot of times it's actually the y-pipe that scraps not the headers. Theres a lot of people on here thats lowered with aftermarket exhaust and plus if you get those 18's you'll sit up a little higher then usual.
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01-04-2006, 05:48 AM #4lt4everGuestOriginally Posted by mrr23
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01-04-2006, 05:56 AM #5lt4everGuestOriginally Posted by TransAmMan
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01-04-2006, 05:30 PM #6Originally Posted by lt4ever
yes and no. relocation brackets do not affect pinion angle unless you were moving the arms way out of position. considering the arc the arms travel in. moving from the upward position to the lower position the same distance from center of arc will not change pinion angle. example: perpindicular from the ground is zero. if the arm is 1" up from that and you move 1" down from perpindicular, then you have not changed pinion angle. anymore than from original distance, then yes, pinion angle changes original 1" up from perpindicular and you go 2" down from perpindicular.
raising/lowering a car does as you are changing the height of the transmission in reference to the rear end yoke. now, you could get adjustable trailing arms and be able to change pinion angle that way. changing the length of the trailing arms changes the pinion angle.
weld in means less movement of the bracket as compared to bolt in. how much difference, i couldn't tell you. i used bolt in myself. no access to a welder.
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01-04-2006, 05:45 PM #7Originally Posted by lt4ever
ok. lots of misconception on what you've heard. you don't have to do any of that if you get the proper offset wheels and tires. you can have 18" wheels and tires without them being taller(bigger). here's a quick chart to go by. all tires will still be 25.7" tall as original.
245/50-16 = 25.7"
245/45-17 = 25.7"
275/40-17 = 25.7"
315/35-17 = 25.7"
245/40-18 = 25.7"
275/35-18 = 25.6"
245/35-19 = 25.7"
285/30-19 = 25.7"
295/25-20 = 25.7"
what you do is shorten the sidewall of the tire to accomodate the larger diameter wheel. all will be same height, just in different widths. then, depending on the offset and width of the wheels you buy, will determine if you need to 'clearance' the inner fenderwell or not. then, depending on how much you lower the car, and offset/width of the wheel, will determine if it will hit the outer fenderlip.Last edited by mrr23; 01-05-2006 at 03:04 PM.
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01-05-2006, 06:25 AM #8lt4everGuest
Thank you! Great stuff!! I should print this page and save it.
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01-05-2006, 06:28 AM #9lt4everGuestOriginally Posted by mrr23
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01-05-2006, 07:30 AM #10lt4everGuestOriginally Posted by mrr23
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01-05-2006, 03:04 PM #11Originally Posted by lt4ever
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01-05-2006, 03:11 PM #12Originally Posted by lt4ever
but, to answer your question, no. so long as the tire is the same overall diameter, then no need to reflash the PCM. computer does not care about rim diameter. only overall diameter.
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01-10-2006, 05:44 AM #13
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Location
- Anderson, IN
- Age
- 49
- Posts
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Pewter- 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
Originally Posted by mrr23http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/2390/4470/65561.jpg
2002 Trans AM WS6
Jet Hot Long Tubes and Y-pipe, Hooker Catback, SLP Lid, Kenny Brown Double Diamond Subs, TSP Magic Stick, Yank SS3400
403 Horse, 357 Ft/lbs.
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01-10-2006, 11:25 AM #14
i have heard of some taking only the end links off. one guy had his sway bar rotate down and lock into the lower control arms. the car wouldn't come back down.
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