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For those who have installed SLP bilsteins...

This is a discussion on For those who have installed SLP bilsteins... within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; what additional OEM parts do I need to buy? ; what parts can I salvage from my OEM shocks, in ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    For those who have installed SLP bilsteins...

    what additional OEM parts do I need to buy? ; what parts can I salvage from my OEM shocks,

    in advance, I'm no suspension guru

  2. #2
    Impounded
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    I needed nothing. Re-used stock parts. I did notice my sway bars need new bushings though.

  3. #3
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike's02Z28M6 View Post
    I needed nothing. Re-used stock parts. I did notice my sway bars need new bushings though.
    great thanks!

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    possibly new bumb stops if you are lowering, but i needed nothing but the shocks. and a spring compressor

  5. #5
    Member Empatho's Avatar
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    I bought some swaybar end links because mine broke when I was taking them off. Besides the end links I just reused all the old parts. Good luck with the passenger side shock.

  6. #6
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
    possibly new bumb stops if you are lowering, but i needed nothing but the shocks. and a spring compressor
    not lowering, I rented a corvette for a few days, couldn't stand always scraping driveways

    Quote Originally Posted by Empatho View Post
    I bought some swaybar end links because mine broke when I was taking them off. Besides the end links I just reused all the old parts. Good luck with the passenger side shock.
    whys that? I always thought the drivers side was harder because of the master cylinder in the way of the hex bolts on the top

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    Junior Member fouthgen.rocket's Avatar
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    I replaced my bump stops with Energy Suspension pieces that were so much better than rubber

  8. #8
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinmc978 View Post
    not lowering, I rented a corvette for a few days, couldn't stand always scraping driveways



    whys that? I always thought the drivers side was harder because of the master cylinder in the way of the hex bolts on the top
    If you carefully unbolt the master and move it to the side a little then its a easy bolt too and when doing your shocks its not necessary to remove every single part of the rotors and such, once you remove the top bolts and the bottom bolt to the shock then you can wiggle it out. I think I loosened my sway bar and then thinking to myself "fucking working for nothing" as I was bolting it back up

  9. #9
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silverWS.6 View Post
    I think I loosened my sway bar and then thinking to myself "fucking working for nothing" as I was bolting it back up
    yeah, I wish I read this post before I wasted 7 minutes doing that.


    I ended up getting the SLP spec'd Bilsteins, WOW, what a difference, aparently someone had changed the rear shocks already with Monroes that were just as terrible as the factory DeCarbons up front. speaking of which, after 130k of use, my Decarbons were so rusted I had to take a blowtorch and cut them down the middle to get them out of the spring perch.

    yes. they are under flammible high pressure gas, and yes... I guess I lucked out because the hole I cut ended up being so small, that only a small amount of gas could get out over a long period of time. sitting in a vice outside the barn it sorf of looked like:



    this. it was, an experience.

    the tear down took me a whole day, but the build up took about 3 hours, stuff goes back in SO easy when you have new shiny parts and know how to put them together. the improved ride quality was definatly worth the $404 dollars, singed hair. and busted knuckles.

  10. #10
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Forget the exact name but a strut tower nut remover tool. Keeps the strut from spinning when you try and free that rusted sob.

    Just noticed when you first posted but I'll leave the above for future people

  11. #11
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    Forget the exact name but a strut tower nut remover tool. Keeps the strut from spinning when you try and free that rusted sob.

    Just noticed when you first posted but I'll leave the above for future people
    the 15mm nut was so rusted it stripped instantly, I pounded a 9/16 (14.3mm) wrench onto it and used gigantic vicegrips to hold onto the flatish top part of the strut, then even that stripped. the nut and strut were basically one

    after that mess I cleaned EVERYTHING, and sprayed everything with multiple layers of black epoxy paint, let it dry and put a coating of white lithium grease on top of that, if the car is around long enough to rust, it won't.

  12. #12
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    I put marine grease on mine, paints probably not a bad idea.

  13. #13
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    Forget the exact name but a strut tower nut remover tool. Keeps the strut from spinning when you try and free that rusted sob.

    Just noticed when you first posted but I'll leave the above for future people
    I had to chisel mine off. Nut, what nut? I'm amazed it was still holding the spring in place. After I got the new one all together I put some RTV that will harden but will be easy to come off later so that the water doesn't pool in that pocket and corrode the nut later.

  14. #14
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I had to chisel mine off.
    why in the HELL did I not think about that... I even had an air chisel availiable.. guess I was just eager to use the blowtorch

  15. #15
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinmc978 View Post
    why in the HELL did I not think about that... I even had an air chisel availiable.. guess I was just eager to use the blowtorch
    I think I would have wanted to watch the torching.................from a distance


    It was not as easy as it sounded. The spring kept absorbing the hammer blows and that nut has a very strong flange base that was hard to cut compare to the rest of the nut. I had to walk away a couple of times so that I didn't throw it threw a wall.

  16. #16
    Senior Member justinmc978's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I think I would have wanted to watch the torching.................from a distance
    my brother watched from about 30 yards away flipped out when that thing exploded

  17. #17
    rsg98Z28 rsg98Z28's Avatar
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    You may want to look into having an alignment done as well, since rmoving the shocks could possibly mess up some of youre angles, an itll drive better.


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