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  1. #1
    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
    2000 Z28 - A4 - Pewter

    TA Mount.. Busted or Not Busted? Pics Inside

    Title says it all. Not sure as to how these things are Removed and Re-Installed. If I had to guess, I'd say that you un-bolt the bracket and "slide" it on, as opposed to there being a split and sort of... "cupping" it (if that's the correct terminology). So I'm trying to decipher my drivetrain vibration, and I beleive I've found the culprit. I've still got a few suspension components I've yet to install but wanted to find the problem with my vibration before installing everything and still have the same problem. Sooooooo, torque arm mount, busted or not busted?


    2000 Z - Light Pewter Metallic - A4 - 130k - Bolt Ons - My Pride and Joy
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  2. #2
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    On your ass flashing
    my highbeams

    Can't see any fractures, but that's just me. Does your car do it all the time? In neutral and drive at speed? You may also take the car to a tire place and see if the wheels are balanced I have had a wheel weight fling off, or tires get out of round.

  3. #3
    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
    2000 Z28 - A4 - Pewter

    Well I thought that too, but if I make any side movement in the steering wheel trying to turn, you can feel the car trying to make like a.... hmm.... well, like something is rubbing (something hard). And a few weekends ago, I went to get my haircut and I was doing about 55-60, changing lanes (softly), and as I slowly steered left, the front went left and it's almost like the back end jerked a little trying to "catch-up" to what the front was doing.

    I've got the same problems on the factory 16s and on the 17s

  4. #4
    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
    2000 Z28 - A4 - Pewter

    Here's another, it's a little blurry, but the fracture I'm referring to is the split at the bottom right corner of the mount. Not sure if this makes it any better or not...


  5. #5
    Member marksls1ta's Avatar
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    black
    1998 trans am

    That mount is good. Check you control arm bolts and rear panhard bar. also check you shock bushing.

    thanks,
    Mark

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  6. #6
    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
    2000 Z28 - A4 - Pewter

    Bout to start tearing into it now, will keep you guys updated

  7. #7
    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
    2000 Z28 - A4 - Pewter

    So I jacked the car up, put it on stand, and took off the factory PHB. The one I have is a BMR adjustable, w/ what looks like grease fittings on the end. The adjuster is offset to one side, so I bolted up the other side first. Went to bolt up the side w/ the adjuster and it was too long. So I rotated it until it was aligned perfectly with the mounting holes. I then tightened down the adjuster about a 1/2 turn, then tightened the one nut that was still lose, as a result.

    I shook the TA to see if it would flex to one side or the other, up or down, and it moved a tiny bit. So I proceeded to poke around the mount. The dealer told me that the factory mounts were all 2 peice mounts for both my A4 and the 6 speeds... so perhaps this would explain the "crack" or "fracture" in my mount? Anyways, I took my index finger and my thumb and I could move the bottom of the mount to both the rear and to the front with almost near an inch of play in between

    So I decided to put the rear wheels back on (took 'em off cause it was easier to R&R the 2 PHBs), let it down and noticed the passenger side wheel was sitting in further than the driver's side wheel I know very little about suspension work, so I guess I made the mistake of turning the adjuster a 1/2 turn FIRST, where-as I'm guessing I should've just tightened down the two end nuts first?

    Anyways, I left it alone at that point, started the car and let it reach operating temp, and drove it out of my subdivision. That hard vibration when I would turn the wheel to pull off from a stop-sign or redlight is gone, but there was still something that didn't feel right. So there's a main road that connects two entrances of our subdivision and I decided to take it WOT in 1st at about 25mph. When I did, I could tell something under my seat was still shaking, like a loose mount or a busted mount. Got back home, called the reputable local speed shop and I'll have both a poly TA mount and a poly Trans mount Monday afternoon. Once those are in, it's time for the BMR SFCs TA, and LCAs. On my last LS1 it seemed once I upgraded something, something else would break, so I've got about a half of a mind to do the whole damn suspension (besides lowering)... I don't want the headaches I had before

  8. #8
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    If that shaking under your seat was in the lower right-hand corner then I'm gonna guess you need a tranny mount.

  9. #9
    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
    2000 Z28 - A4 - Pewter

    Right on, I ordered both mounts that should be in Monday, but I've sent a PM to Mark to see about other things as well. Thanks for the input man

  10. #10
    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
    2000 Z28 - A4 - Pewter

    So I changed out both mounts today, and the TA mount was the real pain. It had appeared to me like it had torn away right at the rivet, so I got it all fastened in. Between Monday night and today, it took me about 8-9 hours because the factory mount was riveted. Since I couldn't find my air powered dremel at the time, I pryed it and ended up slightly bending the mount. Nothing a vise and a little effort couldn't fix. The only reason I could tell was because I always double-check things, and it appeared bent to me. Anyways, got it taken care of.

    The trans mount was a little bit of a guessing game to me. I installed it properly (front-to-back), but I had to use the OE bolts that held the mount to the trans case. Energy suspension gives you two bolts that are used to fasten the crossmember to the bottom of the mount, so I used one of the two (as all of our cars only use one), with a lockwasher, and tightened everything up, double-checking as I was finished.

    I thought about messing the BMR PHB, as I think I centered the rear a little more than "slightly" towards the driver's side, but said screw it, because I'd already driven it last weekend, and it had helped my "vibration".

    So anyways, I fire it up, and I hear a deep "pop" Looked at everything, looks good to me. I thought maybe something was just settling into place I back out of the driveway and take it reeeaaal slow down the street. Car is riding not rough but... well, not like it did before I had the vibration either. I turned out of the neighborhood and hit it in first, and it shfited to 2nd at WOT fine. No noises, pops, bangs, nothing. I pull back in the driveway, put it in park and notice a rotten egg sort of smell. I know the head gaskets aren't blown, car is running smooth, and it's not overheating one bit. I know I've read a few times over the past several months about guys talking of when poly mounts/bushings are installed, the car doesn't "ride nice". Not as in riding rough, but not riding like it used to. So I'm guessing that's all there is to it, as far as the ride goes and I'm cool with that. I got to thinking about these mounts and how they were a little slippery and had a scent to it, like something I would pick up and eat as a kid All jokes aside, would that have anything to do with this nasty scent I got after I pulled back in my driveway? Maybe they just need some "break-in" time? Or is something else more than likely wrong and I'm just an idiot?

    Trying to be cheap for the time being, and to hurry up and get this thing back on the road so I can start driving it everyday, as my truck is getting up there in miles and I need it for the summer

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