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Thread: Suspension set up
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04-24-2009, 09:24 PM #1
Suspension set up
So I have a DD trans am ws6 m6 and I want to upgrade the suspension. I want to get some lowering springs and shocks and sfc's. What I want to know is whats the best set up for a dd. I want better 1/4 mile performance but I also want better handling threw the twisties. What set up should I run? should I run LCA relocation brackets? adj panhard bar?
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04-28-2009, 11:54 AM #2
Here's a good setup to get you started:
UMI Subframe connectors (tubular or boxed, bolt or weld-in)
Bilstein shocks/struts
Strut tower brace
Strano springs
UMI Adjustable tubular panhard rod
Tubular LCA's (relocation brackets are good if you're lowering the car)
Suspension Techniques sway bars (35mm front/25mm rear)
Those upgrades will significantly enhance the handling of your car, without sacrificing performance in the 1/4 mile.1998 Trans Am WS6 SGM
Lid, Pro 5.0, WS6 Short Stick, LS7 Clutch, TB Bypass, Detroit TrueTrac, Poly Mounts, Bilstein Shocks, LS6 Intake, SFCs, CTS-V Brake Upgrade, STB, Nitto 555's. SS Longtube Headers and True Duals w/ H pipe and Magnaflows. Tuned by Harris Speed Works. 341.4WHP/346.1 lb/ft.
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04-28-2009, 12:45 PM #3
Thanks Wesman...I heard doing LCA relocation wekens it in corners is that true?
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04-28-2009, 12:58 PM #4
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04-28-2009, 09:00 PM #5
To the OP:
Setting your car up for the street TRULY will be based on what you want your car to do...
4th gen f-bodies suspension has to be set up with an either/or decision, that is, either for the 1/4 or for the twisties. If you want to "compromise" to have both, then you'll have a "compromised" setup.
If you do the 1/4 a lot then set it up for the 1/4.
1/4 setups should be somewhat softer, while a great handler/canyon carver/autoX'er tends to have a stiffer setup which would not be good if you want GREAT launching.
hope this helps.
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04-28-2009, 10:58 PM #6
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04-29-2009, 04:03 AM #7
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Red- 1998 Camaro SS
Call Sam at http://www.stranoparts.com Talk with him about what you are wanting out of your car and then he'll guide you to what you need.
On relocation brackets if you buy a good set and weld them in, then there should be no concern of them ever braking.1998 Camaro SS Hard Coupe Bright Red #1593
Mods: Lots!!, still my daily driver except for winter
383rwhp 370rwft/lbs
1979 Corvette
Mods Lots!!, weekend cruiser
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Mods: Catback, BFI CAI, Winter daily driver
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04-29-2009, 09:03 AM #8
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My life is a- Ben Stiller movie.
for a DD you should consider:
35 mm front sway (ws6's rear sway is pretty beefy)
stock springs (rear springs with "rubber hose mod"
Koni SA's (front on lower perch)
You'll drop about 3/4" of an inch which for a DD is good b/c mine is lowered 1.5" and it SUCKS b/c you scrap a lot. This will give you an AMAZING amount of pleaseure + control over your car for around $1000
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04-29-2009, 10:00 AM #9
thanks tss...i do need new springs tho bcuz b4 i bought my car it had been sitting for quite a while hence that is why it only has 40000 miles..so what springs are good? i was thinking eibach pro?
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04-29-2009, 08:37 PM #10
Words of wisdom.
I have talked to sam extensively and his expertise and experience with our 4th gen f-bodies is equaled to none.
Matter of fact, I bought just about all of my suspension parts from him because as far as I was concerned, he earned my respect and deserved my money.
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04-29-2009, 10:23 PM #11
how are strano springs compared to eibach? ride height ...price?
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04-30-2009, 04:54 AM #12
stranoparts.com
Call Sam, he sells both of them, he'll give you the lowdown.
What I can say about Sam's springs is that he designed them based on his needs for autocross/daily driving. Sam is a multi time national autocross champion, so he came up with some great springs based on performance and driveability.The Black 2001 SS #5697
T-tops, 6-spd/B&M ripper, ARH LT's/GMMG/CME, Volant, Koni DA's & GC coilovers, Strano frt & rear sways, G2(SFC's w/v-braces, STB, adj PHR), Wilwood 6-piston red calipers frnt brakes w/13" 2-pc rotors, RKSport(clear front & rear corners, c-f grill), chrome Z06 wheels
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04-30-2009, 06:05 AM #13
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Navy Blue Metallic- `98 Formula M6 HdTp
I have Sam's Springs his 35/22 swaybar set and Koni 4/4's and the difference from stock is incredible. The best discripton I can give you is this.
The ride is firm like a real performance car should be but not harsh like a race car. Handling is superb, the car feels planted and maintains composure in all situations. It really is a dream to drive because it does everything better then before.Craig
Semi Retired Street Racer
2012 Lava Red Mustang GT Coupe Brembo/3.73's
Build Date 3/17/11, Last Lava Red GT
Gone but not forgoten
NBM `98 Formula M6 HdTp
1 of 1 Build Date 3/12/98
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05-01-2009, 02:09 PM #14
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05-01-2009, 05:54 PM #15
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Strano springs > Eibach's
I have Koni SA's on my car. Had them with the ProKit and with the Strano springs. Ride is SO much better with the Strano's. And it rides about .25" higher on the Strano's, which leaves it at a perfect height. The ProKit was a touch too low for me when I had the skinnies on the car....scraped once in a while. No more.
Skip the strut tower brace. Appearance mod at most. They do next to nothing for handling.
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05-01-2009, 06:24 PM #16
Just a thought about the strut tower brace? Most Braces on the market just connect the strut tower themselves, In my head i can see the two towers themselves laterally moving together. If you look strut tower braces on the Aston martins and the new camaro they connect the the two braces and the cowl. If a brace connected the towers to the cowl, wouldn't it bring more rigidity to the unibody?
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05-01-2009, 06:41 PM #17
The 4th gen f-body unibody is pretty rigid, more rigid than people think.
If you are one of us fanatics who desire a great handler and go whole hog and get front and rear swaybars and springs and Koni's and SFC's, and an adj. PHR the STB is not going to increase anything.
Now...Let's say you haven't done much to your cars suspension and the only thing you get is a Strut Tower Brace...
Okay, THEN you'll feel a difference as it does add some rigidity.
Does that make sense?
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05-01-2009, 07:03 PM #18
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From what I can tell (and from what I have read), the shock towers aren't moving in the body of our cars. Plain out aren't moving.
I couldn't tell I had a STB on my car at all. And I don't run a front sway bar.
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05-02-2009, 09:00 PM #19
Makes sense, i didn't notice any improvement with my STB, but i cant say the same for my subframe connectors, i feel that they did make a noticeable improvement. Some time ago i had a couple third gens one with 200,000 miles and the other with less that 50,000 miles, and form my experience they weren't very rigid. Somewhat of a different animal though.
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05-03-2009, 06:41 PM #20
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
One of the best mods I did was SFC's. REALLY stiffened up the chassis.
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