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Suspension set up

This is a discussion on Suspension set up within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; So I have a DD trans am ws6 m6 and I want to upgrade the suspension. I want to get ...

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    Pony_eater Pony_Eater's Avatar
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    Suspension set up

    So I have a DD trans am ws6 m6 and I want to upgrade the suspension. I want to get some lowering springs and shocks and sfc's. What I want to know is whats the best set up for a dd. I want better 1/4 mile performance but I also want better handling threw the twisties. What set up should I run? should I run LCA relocation brackets? adj panhard bar?

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Here's a good setup to get you started:

    UMI Subframe connectors (tubular or boxed, bolt or weld-in)
    Bilstein shocks/struts
    Strut tower brace
    Strano springs
    UMI Adjustable tubular panhard rod
    Tubular LCA's (relocation brackets are good if you're lowering the car)
    Suspension Techniques sway bars (35mm front/25mm rear)

    Those upgrades will significantly enhance the handling of your car, without sacrificing performance in the 1/4 mile.
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    Pony_eater Pony_Eater's Avatar
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    Thanks Wesman...I heard doing LCA relocation wekens it in corners is that true?

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pony_Eater View Post
    Thanks Wesman...I heard doing LCA relocation wekens it in corners is that true?
    Could be, since you are adding more distance from the control arm to the chassis.

    I don't have the relocation brackets on my car though, so I can't say from personal experience.

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    Senior Member Carlos01SS's Avatar
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    To the OP:

    Setting your car up for the street TRULY will be based on what you want your car to do...

    4th gen f-bodies suspension has to be set up with an either/or decision, that is, either for the 1/4 or for the twisties. If you want to "compromise" to have both, then you'll have a "compromised" setup.

    If you do the 1/4 a lot then set it up for the 1/4.
    1/4 setups should be somewhat softer, while a great handler/canyon carver/autoX'er tends to have a stiffer setup which would not be good if you want GREAT launching.

    hope this helps.

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    Pony_eater Pony_Eater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos01SS View Post
    To the OP:

    Setting your car up for the street TRULY will be based on what you want your car to do...

    4th gen f-bodies suspension has to be set up with an either/or decision, that is, either for the 1/4 or for the twisties. If you want to "compromise" to have both, then you'll have a "compromised" setup.

    If you do the 1/4 a lot then set it up for the 1/4.
    1/4 setups should be somewhat softer, while a great handler/canyon carver/autoX'er tends to have a stiffer setup which would not be good if you want GREAT launching.

    hope this helps.
    Thanks man ..I was afraid of that..now im torn which way to go because my car is a dd so i dont do either one of these that often but i do like to drive hard

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    Call Sam at http://www.stranoparts.com Talk with him about what you are wanting out of your car and then he'll guide you to what you need.

    On relocation brackets if you buy a good set and weld them in, then there should be no concern of them ever braking.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pony_Eater View Post
    So I have a DD trans am ws6 m6 and I want to upgrade the suspension. I want to get some lowering springs and shocks and sfc's. What I want to know is whats the best set up for a dd. I want better 1/4 mile performance but I also want better handling threw the twisties. What set up should I run? should I run LCA relocation brackets? adj panhard bar?
    for a DD you should consider:
    35 mm front sway (ws6's rear sway is pretty beefy)
    stock springs (rear springs with "rubber hose mod"
    Koni SA's (front on lower perch)

    You'll drop about 3/4" of an inch which for a DD is good b/c mine is lowered 1.5" and it SUCKS b/c you scrap a lot. This will give you an AMAZING amount of pleaseure + control over your car for around $1000

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    Pony_eater Pony_Eater's Avatar
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    thanks tss...i do need new springs tho bcuz b4 i bought my car it had been sitting for quite a while hence that is why it only has 40000 miles..so what springs are good? i was thinking eibach pro?

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    Senior Member Carlos01SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vetteemt View Post
    Call Sam at http://www.stranoparts.com Talk with him about what you are wanting out of your car and then he'll guide you to what you need.

    On relocation brackets if you buy a good set and weld them in, then there should be no concern of them ever braking.

    Words of wisdom.

    I have talked to sam extensively and his expertise and experience with our 4th gen f-bodies is equaled to none.

    Matter of fact, I bought just about all of my suspension parts from him because as far as I was concerned, he earned my respect and deserved my money.

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    Pony_eater Pony_Eater's Avatar
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    how are strano springs compared to eibach? ride height ...price?

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    Senior Member Carlos01SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pony_Eater View Post
    how are strano springs compared to eibach? ride height ...price?
    stranoparts.com

    Call Sam, he sells both of them, he'll give you the lowdown.

    What I can say about Sam's springs is that he designed them based on his needs for autocross/daily driving. Sam is a multi time national autocross champion, so he came up with some great springs based on performance and driveability.
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    I have Sam's Springs his 35/22 swaybar set and Koni 4/4's and the difference from stock is incredible. The best discripton I can give you is this.
    The ride is firm like a real performance car should be but not harsh like a race car. Handling is superb, the car feels planted and maintains composure in all situations. It really is a dream to drive because it does everything better then before.
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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pony_Eater View Post
    thanks tss...i do need new springs tho bcuz b4 i bought my car it had been sitting for quite a while hence that is why it only has 40000 miles..so what springs are good? i was thinking eibach pro?
    go with sam's springs if you say you need springs. I have eibach's and they aren't a good match for the konis-it's a harsh ride and i'm barely able to take full control over them b/c they are progressive springs, sam's are linear rate.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Strano springs > Eibach's

    I have Koni SA's on my car. Had them with the ProKit and with the Strano springs. Ride is SO much better with the Strano's. And it rides about .25" higher on the Strano's, which leaves it at a perfect height. The ProKit was a touch too low for me when I had the skinnies on the car....scraped once in a while. No more.


    Skip the strut tower brace. Appearance mod at most. They do next to nothing for handling.

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    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Strano springs > Eibach's

    I have Koni SA's on my car. Had them with the ProKit and with the Strano springs. Ride is SO much better with the Strano's. And it rides about .25" higher on the Strano's, which leaves it at a perfect height. The ProKit was a touch too low for me when I had the skinnies on the car....scraped once in a while. No more.


    Skip the strut tower brace. Appearance mod at most. They do next to nothing for handling.
    Just a thought about the strut tower brace? Most Braces on the market just connect the strut tower themselves, In my head i can see the two towers themselves laterally moving together. If you look strut tower braces on the Aston martins and the new camaro they connect the the two braces and the cowl. If a brace connected the towers to the cowl, wouldn't it bring more rigidity to the unibody?

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    Senior Member Carlos01SS's Avatar
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    The 4th gen f-body unibody is pretty rigid, more rigid than people think.
    If you are one of us fanatics who desire a great handler and go whole hog and get front and rear swaybars and springs and Koni's and SFC's, and an adj. PHR the STB is not going to increase anything.

    Now...Let's say you haven't done much to your cars suspension and the only thing you get is a Strut Tower Brace...
    Okay, THEN you'll feel a difference as it does add some rigidity.
    Does that make sense?

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    From what I can tell (and from what I have read), the shock towers aren't moving in the body of our cars. Plain out aren't moving.



    I couldn't tell I had a STB on my car at all. And I don't run a front sway bar.

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    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos01SS View Post
    The 4th gen f-body unibody is pretty rigid, more rigid than people think.
    If you are one of us fanatics who desire a great handler and go whole hog and get front and rear swaybars and springs and Koni's and SFC's, and an adj. PHR the STB is not going to increase anything.

    Now...Let's say you haven't done much to your cars suspension and the only thing you get is a Strut Tower Brace...
    Okay, THEN you'll feel a difference as it does add some rigidity.
    Does that make sense?
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    From what I can tell (and from what I have read), the shock towers aren't moving in the body of our cars. Plain out aren't moving.

    I couldn't tell I had a STB on my car at all. And I don't run a front sway bar.
    Makes sense, i didn't notice any improvement with my STB, but i cant say the same for my subframe connectors, i feel that they did make a noticeable improvement. Some time ago i had a couple third gens one with 200,000 miles and the other with less that 50,000 miles, and form my experience they weren't very rigid. Somewhat of a different animal though.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    One of the best mods I did was SFC's. REALLY stiffened up the chassis.

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