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Suspension List

This is a discussion on Suspension List within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Looking to purchase some suspension parts... i plan on D1sc. this is a DD that will turn more and more ...

  1. #1
    Impounded
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    Suspension List

    Looking to purchase some suspension parts...
    i plan on D1sc. this is a DD that will turn more and more into a strip car as the years go on
    LCAs
    LCA relocation brackets
    PHB
    T/Q Arm
    9" Rear End
    Bilstiens (maybe konis 3/4s or qa1s)
    Stranos
    D/S Loop
    SFCs
    roll cage?

    probably go UMI on most if not all..
    which bushings are the smoothest riding? i want to maintain comfortability
    Boxed or tubular?
    is it worth going chromoly?
    what should i get nonadjustable, adjustable, or double adjustable?
    am i missing anything?

  2. #2
    Good choice going with UMI.

    We can help you choose the correct parts in the correct order to meet your goals.

    Of course I love your parts list. The main thing I see, especially if you are going D1SC, is you will need your track rules and decide when they're going to require a cage.

    Our WS6Vert got uninvited back after one pass...

    For your main questions.

    Poly is smoothest but takes maintenance to stay quiet. Roto-Joints are next in comfort. Rod ends are noisiest but most precise.
    We see no strength trouble with tubular and it's a bit lighter.
    CrMo saves a few pounds on the entire car and is a great choice to use the "best" but isn't necessary. We have cars in single digits on mild steel.
    Adjustable is best if you like to tune. Single vs double depends on how much you tune and how long you want it to take. As cost goes up, time to adjust goes down (i.e. single vs double).

    Let me know when you are ready to build and we'll get you fixed up.

    ramey

  3. #3
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Get adjustable on the LCA's - you'll probably need it running a slick at the track down the road.

    I would also suggest adjustable on the torque arm and PHB. You'll need to re-dial in your pinion angle after being lowered on Strano's. On-car adjustable for the PHB makes making the adjustment easier. Your rear end will shift even more towards the driver's side after being lowered.

    If you haven't taken it into consideration yet, you'll also need an alignment after a lowering spring install.

    The relocation brackets - get those welded to the Moser axle tubes. It's an option from Moser.

  4. #4
    Impounded
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    by alignment i suppose you mean my tires...right?

  5. #5
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Correct, you'll need a wheel alignment. It's about $75.

  6. #6
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    ahh actually 57$ with my dealership discount

  7. #7
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    From what I learned over the years;

    Lowering = adjustable everything.

    Swapping rear end = adjustable everything.



    Also, if you go with a relocation of the ta, you'll need to know what headers you have/going to have.



    Do you have sways yet?

  8. #8
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    You really don't need adjustable LCA's unless you plan on running a slick IMO.

  9. #9
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    with 3pt sfc fit with kooks ory and d/s loop?

  10. #10
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    no sways... and i have my exhaust on already

  11. #11
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Custom Swirly Black
    2001 WS6 M6

    Quote Originally Posted by BashamWS6 View Post
    with 3pt sfc fit with kooks ory and d/s loop?
    Yes. You need to get the right loop for kooks though.

  12. #12
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    You don't have to get an aftermarket sway bar, but the stock rear sway bar fits really tight on the 9"
    It's on jackstands.

  13. #13
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    NOS is cool, but I rather be blown<---- lmao

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