Suspension List

[BashamWS6]

Looking to purchase some suspension parts...
i plan on D1sc. this is a DD that will turn more and more into a strip car as the years go on
LCAs
LCA relocation brackets
PHB
T/Q Arm
9" Rear End
Bilstiens (maybe konis 3/4s or qa1s)
Stranos
D/S Loop
SFCs
roll cage?

probably go UMI on most if not all..
which bushings are the smoothest riding? i want to maintain comfortability
Boxed or tubular?
is it worth going chromoly?
what should i get nonadjustable, adjustable, or double adjustable?
am i missing anything?

[UMI Sales]

Good choice going with UMI.

We can help you choose the correct parts in the correct order to meet your goals.

Of course I love your parts list. The main thing I see, especially if you are going D1SC, is you will need your track rules and decide when they're going to require a cage.

Our WS6Vert got uninvited back after one pass...

For your main questions.

Poly is smoothest but takes maintenance to stay quiet. Roto-Joints are next in comfort. Rod ends are noisiest but most precise.
We see no strength trouble with tubular and it's a bit lighter.
CrMo saves a few pounds on the entire car and is a great choice to use the "best" but isn't necessary. We have cars in single digits on mild steel.
Adjustable is best if you like to tune. Single vs double depends on how much you tune and how long you want it to take. As cost goes up, time to adjust goes down (i.e. single vs double).

Let me know when you are ready to build and we'll get you fixed up.

ramey

[35th-ANV-SS]

Get adjustable on the LCA's - you'll probably need it running a slick at the track down the road.

I would also suggest adjustable on the torque arm and PHB. You'll need to re-dial in your pinion angle after being lowered on Strano's. On-car adjustable for the PHB makes making the adjustment easier. Your rear end will shift even more towards the driver's side after being lowered.

If you haven't taken it into consideration yet, you'll also need an alignment after a lowering spring install.

The relocation brackets - get those welded to the Moser axle tubes. It's an option from Moser.

[BashamWS6]

by alignment i suppose you mean my tires...right?

[35th-ANV-SS]

Correct, you'll need a wheel alignment. It's about $75.

[BashamWS6]

ahh actually 57$ with my dealership discount

[KMdef9]

From what I learned over the years;

Lowering = adjustable everything.

Swapping rear end = adjustable everything.



Also, if you go with a relocation of the ta, you'll need to know what headers you have/going to have.



Do you have sways yet?

[35th-ANV-SS]

You really don't need adjustable LCA's unless you plan on running a slick IMO.

[BashamWS6]

with 3pt sfc fit with kooks ory and d/s loop?

[BashamWS6]

no sways... and i have my exhaust on already

[KMdef9]

with 3pt sfc fit with kooks ory and d/s loop?

Yes. You need to get the right loop for kooks though.

[35th-ANV-SS]

You don't have to get an aftermarket sway bar, but the stock rear sway bar fits really tight on the 9"

[BashamWS6]

NOS is cool, but I rather be blown<---- lmao