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Subframe connectors, weld vs bolt

This is a discussion on Subframe connectors, weld vs bolt within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; so would these SFC's reduce 1/4 miles in anyway?...

  1. #21
    LS1 or bust b.lee's Avatar
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    so would these SFC's reduce 1/4 miles in anyway?
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    Quote Originally Posted by myss984 View Post
    oneBADDz, how do the fronts bolt up? Does anything go into the subframe section where the bolts would bolt up to? Can you explain the backing plate? It is sanwiched between the SFC and the subframe? I've been wondering about that.
    It's a 6 inch long piece of metal that slides into the subframe, and the bolts travel through larger holes already in the subframe and thread into the backing plate. The frame is sandwiched between the SFC and the plate

    Quote Originally Posted by b.lee View Post
    so would these SFC's reduce 1/4 miles in anyway?
    Not feasibly. You could come up wth outrageous situations to fit the argument that they would, but it isn't realistic on the aerage car. Just keeps the car straight and the t-tops sealed(as sealed as the factory crappiness allows anyways

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Good questions, any one have the info? I'd love to hear a personall success story on installing the UMI 2 pt bolt ons.

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    huh, should have read page two before posting.

    oneBADDz, where or how do you slip the back plate in? I'm guess it is only a couple inches by a couple inches?

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    The back of the SFCs bolt around your rear control arm mount, and the plate in the front is about 1x6. I'll get you some pics from the umi install stuff

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    View from the rear:

    Front mounts:

    Rear mount: that cut out spot on the left where the bolt can slide out without hitting hte frame is there from teh factory, you don't have to cut it out

    more:


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    weld only.
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    My t-tops never made noise. But I could feel the car twist when entering some driveways before I put them on. Now there isn't any twisting when entering my shops driveway. Also it will stop the dimpiling of the quarter panels right behind the sail panel. All the f-bodies up here that I've looked at have the dimpling.

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    If you go to UMI's web site (UMIPerformance.com) they have some awesome install pictures under each of the different subframe connectors they sell. Hope this helps...I just spent 3 days of debate & research on the different subframe connectors from each manufacturer & FINALLY decided to go with the 2 point bolt on from UMI. I read & heard nothing but good things about them.

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    OPPS! I should have went on to page 2. I see that oneBADDz posted the pictures. By the way....many thanks to ya oneBADDz for your input & help in my SFC debate/research!! Of ALL I looked at, I felt the UMI 2 point bolt in would fit my requirements the best. (Low profile, bolt in, light weight, no cutting or drilling, plus the price isn't bad either!) The only thing I wish is that UMI made 2 point bolt in boxed framed ones.

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    weld ones are cheper.. and i have seen bolts break off of a bolt on sfc's it was probly caused by hill hoping! but none the less i has more of a chance of break then weld on.. and to know if the weld is stong has meany factors like if its mig welded of fluxcore (fluxcore is weeker b/c its harder to work with) over head mig is not much hareder then flat mig.. but its harder some ppl that weld years can not do it . yeat people that weld for 3 days can lean and lay down a good bead.. if your welding on ur own sfc always cleen the place that the weld is going to be placed at. if u can use higher gr. wire 70 junk 80 lil better 90 gr wire is probly the best for over head. gr 100 wire is 4 times as much as gr90 and is a pany in the a** to work with.. if u want to tell if its a good stong weld u have to lok for under cut and holes .. im not going to tell u how to weld.. but have fun and google it .. its not hard and its kinda fun once u learn how to do it. and it payes good normaly if u want to make a professon with it..

  12. #32
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    Another part of why I chose bolt-on. . .I wasn't sure my car was straight. If it's not and you weld them on you're stuck that way, I wanted to verify it was straight by the pattern made bolt-on units.

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    oneBADDz thanks for the pics. Those are a lot easier to see than the UMI site. THere's are good but your posting was great. I guess my last question was really about how the heck you get that 1x6 back plate in there. I guess there is a spot some where up front it slips in. Is the back plate pre made with integrated nuts? Cuz I can't see trying to hold a nut up in there while torquing down the bolt.

    thanks

  14. #34
    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    The plate itself is threaded, no nuts. It bolts right into the plate. There's a spot to slip it in. When you get them in it will make all the sense in the world when you look at it. They send good instructions as well

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    ok thanks

  16. #36
    anyone have the bolt in 3pt??? I was looking and to me it would seem that multiple places to tie the frame together would be a good thing as it would disperse the flexing forces a little better.

  17. #37
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    I don't know squat about LS.1s, but it's pretty much a concensus on the Mustang sites that bolt-on subs are junk.
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    What makes bolt in so much worse than weld in? If you had the chance to get a bolt in that allows you to weld in later, wouldn't you?

    I was thinking the bolt in would buy you time until you are ready to weld in.

    I'm all for the weld in, but that requires buying a part you can't install right away and then having to deal with finding a quality weld / installer. IMO you can only trust mechanics that have prooven themselves to you or someone you already trust.

    You wouldn't build a house without checking out the builders quality and reputation. I don't let just any kncukle head work on my car. I can f my car all by myself. I don't need to pay someone i don't know to do that.

    Thanks for the insight. I'm not much of a Ford guy, but I know hot rodding and racing is a delima no matter what you ride.

    What brand of SFCs do the Ford guys like?

  19. #39
    kool-aide....I am with you man. I am gonna get the bolt-ins and then save some dough to have the frame verified as straight and true before I have them welded up. Car has never been in an accident but why weld it in when you are unsure if it was tweaked in any way from driving.

  20. #40
    Speed Racer 99 Kobra's Avatar
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    The most popular subframe connectors for Mustangs are full-length subframe connectors made by Maximum Motorsports. Their products are mainly for Mustangs. They have a good Website. As far as Mustangs go, it's a consensus that welded connectors stiffen the chassis MUCH better than bolted. The same principle applies to cages for race cars. I've got a beautiful welded-in cage in my BMW. A bolted-in cage would NOT stiffen the chassis nearly as well. Anyone that says that bolted-in cages are as good as weld-in cages is wrong. I feel the same applies to connectors.

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