Subframe connectors & crossmember

**98maro** · 03-22-2010, 01:44 PM

Ok. I have question bout subframe connectors and crossmember
do they make a difference on the car? Are they worht it?
I'm lookin at the subframe connctors from slp for $300 is that a good price? And also I was lookin at the crossmember.
If some 1 can answer my questions thanks

**tatertot91** · 03-22-2010, 01:52 PM

Would definitely look into SFCs, worth it
Personally if you wanna save check out UMI, they're lighter too

***SMWS6TA*** · 03-22-2010, 01:55 PM

UMI from KySpeed (Sponsor) = better, cheaper, lighter.

Most ppl on here will only use SLP for their Airlids and Linelocks, nothing else.

And to answer your other question, yes, they help prevent flexing of our bodies.

**67CamaroRSSS** · 03-22-2010, 02:05 PM

SFC's are a "must have" regardless of body style (HT, T-top or vert). You want to be able to close the doors (or T-tops to not leak or vert to not shake going over RR tracks) then you need SFC's.

The only time I used SLP was on my 96 Vert and that was because nobody else had them (for convertibles). Otherwise go with a type that go all the way back and bolt in to the lower control arm in the rear. Weld in are better than bolt in. LT1 SFC's are different from LS1 SFC's.

If you do a cross member then you'd be better off to go with a complete body mount adjustable torque arm setup that incorporates a DS saftey loop. This solves 4 things in 1 shot: 1) Better cross member; 2) DS saftey loop; 3) Adjustable TA; 4) Takes the torque arm (and potential for cracking the tranny tailshaft) off of the back of the tranny.

**KMdef9** · 03-22-2010, 02:12 PM

Originally Posted by 98maro

Ok. I have question bout subframe connectors and crossmember
do they make a difference on the car? Are they worht it?
I'm lookin at the subframe connctors from slp for $300 is that a good price? And also I was lookin at the crossmember.
If some 1 can answer my questions thanks

That's a good price if they're brand new. They cost ~$350 most places.

Originally Posted by tatertot91

Would definitely look into SFCs, worth it
Personally if you wanna save check out UMI, they're lighter too

+

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

UMI from KySpeed (Sponsor) = better, cheaper, lighter.

Most ppl on here will only use SLP for their Airlids and Linelocks, nothing else.

And to answer your other question, yes, they help prevent flexing of our bodies.

I have heard this from many people.

**98maro** · 03-22-2010, 02:24 PM

So slp are not good then?
And where can I find those from ky speed?
My cars has t tops and it has the ls1
are they all the same? Or it's a fdiferent for every car

and what can you guys tell bout the crossmember?
Thanks

**tatertot91** · 03-22-2010, 02:29 PM

Originally Posted by 98maro

So slp are not good then?
And where can I find those from ky speed?
My cars has t tops and it has the ls1
are they all the same? Or it's a fdiferent for every car

and what can you guys tell bout the crossmember?
Thanks

At the top bar click sponsors and you should see it there
Nothing wrong with the SLP ones, but you can get some cheaper that do the same job and are lighter. I was gonna put SLP ones on my car, but never got around to installing them and had to get rid of them.

**98maro** · 03-22-2010, 02:31 PM

They are brand new.
Thy look thick idk why. My car is lowered almos 2 inches. Idk if they are too big n can hit everywhere. Idk

**tatertot91** · 03-22-2010, 02:33 PM

Originally Posted by 98maro

They are brand new.
Thy look thick idk why. My car is lowered almos 2 inches. Idk if they are too big n can hit everywhere. Idk

They might stick out just a little, most likely not lower than your exhaust

**98maro** · 03-22-2010, 04:20 PM

If it won't go lower than exhaust it's good
cuz I already have enough with the exhaust lol
it hit everywhere

**tatertot91** · 03-22-2010, 04:23 PM

Originally Posted by 98maro

If it won't go lower than exhaust it's good
cuz I already have enough with the exhaust lol
it hit everywhere

What kind of springs do you have? Eibachs by any chance?

**98maro** · 03-22-2010, 05:02 PM

Honestly idk. When I bought the car it was lowered already.
I havnt take the time and check em out
are those good 1s?

**tatertot91** · 03-22-2010, 05:22 PM

Originally Posted by 98maro

Honestly idk. When I bought the car it was lowered already.
I havnt take the time and check em out
are those good 1s?

Well, they're just really low
Not bad, but not the best.

**98maro** · 03-22-2010, 05:27 PM

They might be cuz the front it's very low.
Almost hit on the tires

**98maro** · 03-22-2010, 05:58 PM

The subframe connectors I was lokin at. Are weld in. And some others are bolt in. Which 1 one is better or which one work better?
Thanks
as soon as I can I'm gonna contact kyspeed. To see wat they recomnd me

**tatertot91** · 03-22-2010, 06:03 PM

Originally Posted by 98maro

The subframe connectors I was lokin at. Are weld in. And some others are bolt in. Which 1 one is better or which one work better?
Thanks
as soon as I can I'm gonna contact kyspeed. To see wat they recomnd me

Weld ins are structurally stronger, but if you get bolt ins you can install em then get em welded later.

**98maro** · 03-22-2010, 06:17 PM

Oh ok. N for the bolt on I have to make the holes on the car or everithing it's ready to install?

**tatertot91** · 03-22-2010, 06:23 PM

Originally Posted by 98maro

Oh ok. N for the bolt on I have to make the holes on the car or everithing it's ready to install?

you don't gotta make any holes
Check this site out, they got lots of helpful info

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins..._documents.htm

**98maro** · 03-22-2010, 06:36 PM

Ok thanks. Let me check it out

**67CamaroRSSS** · 03-22-2010, 07:34 PM

Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS

SFC's are a "must have" regardless of body style (HT, T-top or vert). You want to be able to close the doors (or T-tops to not leak or vert to not shake going over RR tracks) then you need SFC's.

The only time I used SLP was on my 96 Vert and that was because nobody else had them (for convertibles). Otherwise go with a type that go all the way back and bolt in to the lower control arm in the rear. Weld in are better than bolt in. LT1 SFC's are different from LS1 SFC's.

If you do a cross member then you'd be better off to go with a complete body mount adjustable torque arm setup that incorporates a DS saftey loop. This solves 4 things in 1 shot: 1) Better cross member; 2) DS saftey loop; 3) Adjustable TA; 4) Takes the torque arm (and potential for cracking the tranny tailshaft) off of the back of the tranny.

You should read all of your thread. This was in post #4...