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Subframe connectors & crossmember

This is a discussion on Subframe connectors & crossmember within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Ok. I have question bout subframe connectors and crossmember do they make a difference on the car? Are they worht ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Subframe connectors & crossmember

    Ok. I have question bout subframe connectors and crossmember
    do they make a difference on the car? Are they worht it?
    I'm lookin at the subframe connctors from slp for $300 is that a good price? And also I was lookin at the crossmember.
    If some 1 can answer my questions thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Would definitely look into SFCs, worth it
    Personally if you wanna save check out UMI, they're lighter too

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    UMI from KySpeed (Sponsor) = better, cheaper, lighter.

    Most ppl on here will only use SLP for their Airlids and Linelocks, nothing else.


    And to answer your other question, yes, they help prevent flexing of our bodies.

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    SFC's are a "must have" regardless of body style (HT, T-top or vert). You want to be able to close the doors (or T-tops to not leak or vert to not shake going over RR tracks) then you need SFC's.

    The only time I used SLP was on my 96 Vert and that was because nobody else had them (for convertibles). Otherwise go with a type that go all the way back and bolt in to the lower control arm in the rear. Weld in are better than bolt in. LT1 SFC's are different from LS1 SFC's.

    If you do a cross member then you'd be better off to go with a complete body mount adjustable torque arm setup that incorporates a DS saftey loop. This solves 4 things in 1 shot: 1) Better cross member; 2) DS saftey loop; 3) Adjustable TA; 4) Takes the torque arm (and potential for cracking the tranny tailshaft) off of the back of the tranny.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    Ok. I have question bout subframe connectors and crossmember
    do they make a difference on the car? Are they worht it?
    I'm lookin at the subframe connctors from slp for $300 is that a good price? And also I was lookin at the crossmember.
    If some 1 can answer my questions thanks
    That's a good price if they're brand new. They cost ~$350 most places.

    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    Would definitely look into SFCs, worth it
    Personally if you wanna save check out UMI, they're lighter too
    +
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    UMI from KySpeed (Sponsor) = better, cheaper, lighter.

    Most ppl on here will only use SLP for their Airlids and Linelocks, nothing else.


    And to answer your other question, yes, they help prevent flexing of our bodies.
    I have heard this from many people.

  6. #6
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    So slp are not good then?
    And where can I find those from ky speed?
    My cars has t tops and it has the ls1
    are they all the same? Or it's a fdiferent for every car

    and what can you guys tell bout the crossmember?
    Thanks

  7. #7
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    So slp are not good then?
    And where can I find those from ky speed?
    My cars has t tops and it has the ls1
    are they all the same? Or it's a fdiferent for every car

    and what can you guys tell bout the crossmember?
    Thanks
    At the top bar click sponsors and you should see it there
    Nothing wrong with the SLP ones, but you can get some cheaper that do the same job and are lighter. I was gonna put SLP ones on my car, but never got around to installing them and had to get rid of them.

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    They are brand new.
    Thy look thick idk why. My car is lowered almos 2 inches. Idk if they are too big n can hit everywhere. Idk

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    They are brand new.
    Thy look thick idk why. My car is lowered almos 2 inches. Idk if they are too big n can hit everywhere. Idk
    They might stick out just a little, most likely not lower than your exhaust

  10. #10
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    If it won't go lower than exhaust it's good
    cuz I already have enough with the exhaust lol
    it hit everywhere

  11. #11
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    If it won't go lower than exhaust it's good
    cuz I already have enough with the exhaust lol
    it hit everywhere
    What kind of springs do you have? Eibachs by any chance?

  12. #12
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Honestly idk. When I bought the car it was lowered already.
    I havnt take the time and check em out
    are those good 1s?

  13. #13
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    Honestly idk. When I bought the car it was lowered already.
    I havnt take the time and check em out
    are those good 1s?
    Well, they're just really low
    Not bad, but not the best.

  14. #14
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    They might be cuz the front it's very low.
    Almost hit on the tires

  15. #15
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    The subframe connectors I was lokin at. Are weld in. And some others are bolt in. Which 1 one is better or which one work better?
    Thanks
    as soon as I can I'm gonna contact kyspeed. To see wat they recomnd me

  16. #16
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    The subframe connectors I was lokin at. Are weld in. And some others are bolt in. Which 1 one is better or which one work better?
    Thanks
    as soon as I can I'm gonna contact kyspeed. To see wat they recomnd me
    Weld ins are structurally stronger, but if you get bolt ins you can install em then get em welded later.

  17. #17
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Oh ok. N for the bolt on I have to make the holes on the car or everithing it's ready to install?

  18. #18
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    Oh ok. N for the bolt on I have to make the holes on the car or everithing it's ready to install?
    you don't gotta make any holes
    Check this site out, they got lots of helpful info

    http://www.installuniversity.com/ins..._documents.htm

  19. #19
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Ok thanks. Let me check it out

  20. #20
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    SFC's are a "must have" regardless of body style (HT, T-top or vert). You want to be able to close the doors (or T-tops to not leak or vert to not shake going over RR tracks) then you need SFC's.

    The only time I used SLP was on my 96 Vert and that was because nobody else had them (for convertibles). Otherwise go with a type that go all the way back and bolt in to the lower control arm in the rear. Weld in are better than bolt in. LT1 SFC's are different from LS1 SFC's.

    If you do a cross member then you'd be better off to go with a complete body mount adjustable torque arm setup that incorporates a DS saftey loop. This solves 4 things in 1 shot: 1) Better cross member; 2) DS saftey loop; 3) Adjustable TA; 4) Takes the torque arm (and potential for cracking the tranny tailshaft) off of the back of the tranny.
    You should read all of your thread. This was in post #4...

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