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Subframe Connector Info

This is a discussion on Subframe Connector Info within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; hey, guys. I'm way overdue for some subframe connectors, but I have a couple questions first. 1. I'll be getting ...

  1. #1
    Member jcws6's Avatar
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    Question Subframe Connector Info

    hey, guys. I'm way overdue for some subframe connectors, but I have a couple questions first.

    1. I'll be getting the weld-in type. Are there any other suspension mods I should be thinking about at the same time? I'd hate to have the SFCs welded up, only to find that I want to replace something they're welded to later.

    2. The shop I'm getting them welded at said they may need to remove some of the interior, to make sure nothing gets burned from the welding. Any truth to that?

    3. The shop also said that I'd have a choice of how they "dress the welds." Since I know less than nothing about welding, what the hell does that mean?

    I'm pretty sure I'll be getting 2-point connectors (haven't decided on boxes vs. tubular yet). lowering the car & getting 3-point connectors would be awesome, but probably not practical for me. shitty Ohio roads + steep driveways would probably cause clearance issues later on down the line.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcws6 View Post
    hey, guys. I'm way overdue for some subframe connectors, but I have a couple questions first.
    1. I'll be getting the weld-in type. Are there any other suspension mods I should be thinking about at the same time? I'd hate to have the SFCs welded up, only to find that I want to replace something they're welded to later.
    Any reason why you you're getting weld in then? You already have them? I have weld in, I knew I was never going to swap them out when I got them, then a little bit later UMI came out with 3pts. now I want 3 pts...... Even if you weld them in you can get them off if you choose to later. Just grind the welds and they'll come off.

    If you got the $$ - I'd recommend these after the SFC's in order: LCA's, Full Length TA with TA relocate kit, PHB, next sway bars and if you really want to spent $$ TSB

    Quote Originally Posted by jcws6 View Post
    2. The shop I'm getting them welded at said they may need to remove some of the interior, to make sure nothing gets burned from the welding. Any truth to that?
    Not with these SFC's, in the past you use to have to because the sub frame was very close to the floor pans, these are about 3" away. I did not have to move my carpet to do so. You're prerogative.


    Quote Originally Posted by jcws6 View Post
    3. The shop also said that I'd have a choice of how they "dress the welds." Since I know less than nothing about welding, what the hell does that mean?
    Do you want them painted over? Yes but you can do that yourself later, helps prevent rusting of the welds.

    Quote Originally Posted by jcws6 View Post
    I'm pretty sure I'll be getting 2-point connectors (haven't decided on boxes vs. tubular yet). lowering the car & getting 3-point connectors would be awesome, but probably not practical for me. shitty Ohio roads + steep driveways would probably cause clearance issues later on down the line.
    Box is stronger then tube, 3 pt is better then 2 pt. Clearance issues will come from aftermarket headers and ORY before SFC's and suspension.



    What brand are you looking at getting? Most brands I know tuck up nicely to where you almost have to get on the ground to see them. You wouldn't know I had them unless you did that. Mine are UMI, in fact all my suspension is UMI.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 10-13-2011 at 02:52 PM.

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    Member jcws6's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    I'm getting weld-in because it's a stronger/more stable connection to the subframe. I just wasn't sure if they made anything else difficult or impossible to remove.

    Definitely UMI, now heavily leaning toward the box-type, since I can probably use 'em as a quick jack point & it sounds like they don't really stick out.

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    Member TransAmX2's Avatar
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    I got the UMI 3-point bolt in and am very happy with them, I knew I needed the support but wasn't sure how long I'd own or how much I'd mod my TA so if/when I go to sell it I'll unbolt them and give someone else here a set for a good discount. As SMWS6TA said, even the 3 points don't cause clearance issues, the factory exhaust would even hang lower than them. If you're considering lowering it at all or concerned about clearance Full Length TA with TA relocate kit is the way to go when you get to that stage of the suspension improvement, the shorter TA's at the crossover brace hang really low (speaking from experience). Enjoy

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    TA = torque arm correct? and thats the long triangle piece that runs along the drive shaft correct?

    so what the hell does it too, lol

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    Just make sure that the shop that performs the install does so with the weight of the car on the suspension, such as on a 4-post lift. You don't want them installing SFC's on a 2-post lift, or with the car simply jacked up as things will not be in good alignment.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spikito View Post
    TA = torque arm correct? and thats the long triangle piece that runs along the drive shaft correct?

    so what the hell does it too, lol

    Yes, the TA keeps the rear axle from rotating when you apply power to the wheels. Equal/Opposite forces, wheels will turn one way while the axle want to go the opposite.




    OP, my car is lowered and have no issues with suspension clearance, ORY different story.

    My LCA's & PHB are adjustable and have the roto joint, my TA is full length - reason being is when I went to order I talked with Jerry @ UMI. I told him what my plans were for the car and he recommend a full length TA with the relocate kit. The kit replaces the tranny crossover mount and moves the TA mount off the tail cone of the tranny.


    Here are comparison pics of stock vs UMI.











    TA and relocate kit installed







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    I'm also lowered with Strano springs, have the 2pt box-style weld-in SFC's and a Kooks ORY. No ground clearance issues at all. I have about 3/4 of a pop can height ground clearance at the lowest point of the ORY.

    Just some more information regarding the torque arm:

    Track use = tunnel mount torque arm
    Street use = full length torque arm

    That is my rule of thumb. With a tunnel mount you'll get more "road noise" into the cabin because it is tucked up tightly in the tunnel and very close to the under-body of the car. Most people usually have to massage the tunnel for added clearance between the floor and torque arm.

    Either way, I'd suggest one which relocates the front mounting portion of the torque arm off the tail-shaft of the transmission.

    OP - You'll be very satisfied with whichever route you decide (2pt or 3pt) and UMI.

  9. #9
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    i have the umi 3 piont bolt on and there is no issued with hitting any thing and i have the strano spring tsp headers to and i good size curb in the drive way and still work out fine the bolt in will work just fine and no need to pay some one to weld or paint any thnig

  10. #10
    On these cars you not need to remove any interior items while welding. I do recommend unhooking the battery as a safety precaustin.

    I think for dressing up the welds they mean adding some pain to them once completed to prevent welding. Spray paint or in a can with a brush works great for this.

    I hope that helps!
    Ryan

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