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Thread: subframe connector
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02-21-2006, 03:12 AM #1
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
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- michigan
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- 37
black black pewter- 89,00 LPE WS6,02 LPE WS6
subframe connector
besides slp does anyone know where i can get one?
83 Firebird SCCA Race Car, 89 WS6 T5 SCCA Race Car 00 Lingenfelter WS6 T-Top 6spd Transam, race suspension, baer brakes, 02 Lingenfelter WS6 vert 6spd Transam, 1971 LT1 Vert Corvette, 06 Ext Cab Z88 5 spd Canyon, 08 Z71 Ext Cab Sierra
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02-21-2006, 07:29 AM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- North Olmsted, OH
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- 49
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- 506
Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 Camaro Z28
SLP's subframes are of the double diamond kind and are offered in bolt-in and weld in. Other Companies that make Subframe Connectors are Kenny Brown (Double diamond, weld ins), Hotchkis (Tubular), Spohn (Tubular), BMR (Tubular and Boxed), Umi Performance (Tubular, Boxed and Double Diamond) and G2 (Tubular).
2000 NBM Camaro Z28
Mods:
SLP Lid & K&N, AHR Headers + 3" catted Y and Mangaflow, !EGR, !AIR, BMR CM STB, ST Front 35mm and Hellwig Adj. Rear 22mm Swaybar, Adj. Rod/Rod PHB, Koni SA's, Ground Control Springs & Adj. Ride height, and HPTuners.
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02-22-2006, 07:58 PM #3
which one is better? weld in or bolt on?
thanks
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02-23-2006, 12:37 AM #4
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- Aug 2005
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- North Olmsted, OH
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- 49
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- 506
Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 Camaro Z28
Bolt in will work but weld in will give you less chance of failure under stress. For a mild street car that is not going to see the track often the bolt ins are ok. But if you start puting the power down, going to the track or road course, or spraying often I would go ahead and get the weld ins.
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02-23-2006, 09:21 AM #5
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- Aug 2005
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- Pittsburgh, PA
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- 42
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My life is a- Ben Stiller movie.
subframes are overated and unnecessary if you're not tracking.
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02-23-2006, 10:18 AM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Maryland; USA
- Posts
- 133
- See signature.
umi performance 3 point bolt in's is what i have.
Pontiac Firebird's: 91 Formula 350, 01 Trans Am WS6, Suzuki's: 09 SX4 Crossover, GSX-R's: 06 600 & 07 1K.
F-Quick Garage & Car Domain
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02-23-2006, 11:33 AM #7
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- Jul 2005
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
- Posts
- 2,723
I have the BMR boxed, like being able to lift the whole side of the car with them.
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02-24-2006, 12:49 PM #8
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- Port St. John, FL
- Posts
- 530
Red & Dk Gray- 2002 WS6, '08 G8 GT
Originally Posted by dipherentdesign
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02-24-2006, 03:47 PM #9
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- Jul 2005
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- commerce twp michigan
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- 546
Originally Posted by Killer_bluebird
I only plan on going to the track once. Weekend cruser car.
99 ss m6 car will have l/t and ls6 intake
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02-24-2006, 06:45 PM #10
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- Port St. John, FL
- Posts
- 530
Red & Dk Gray- 2002 WS6, '08 G8 GT
Originally Posted by skar
Totally new ride! no more creaking and popping from T-Tops, and rear hatch. Much more positive feel and control in turns, pulling out of and entering steep driveways. No more twisting and flexing in hard cornering, car is easier to handle and control. Starting to feel much more like my IROC in handling. It (IROC) has full suspension re-work, except SFC's. But it (IROC) is a hard top car, no T-Tops. Both the T/A & the IROC-Z are A4 cars.
I personally like the stability of the DD (3 point SFC's) My SLP SFC's were purchased used for $100. I stripped and refinished them and am happy with the result. Undercoated all attach and contact points after install.
My $.02
Have pics if interested.
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02-25-2006, 07:58 PM #11
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Location
- maine
- Posts
- 126
silver- 2002 z-28
BMR weld ins for mine........check em out...cant see them they tuck nicely out of the way.... dont remember what i paid....wasnt over 140 bucks
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02-25-2006, 08:17 PM #12
Anyone how owns a f-body should know that subframe connectors are damn near a must have and should be one of the first mods.
I'd say any brand is good enough.
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02-26-2006, 04:40 AM #13
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- Jul 2005
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- commerce twp michigan
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- 66
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Originally Posted by x-40oz-x
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02-26-2006, 08:10 AM #14
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- Nov 2005
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- Port St. John, FL
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- 530
Red & Dk Gray- 2002 WS6, '08 G8 GT
Originally Posted by skar
From looking at UMI's SFC's it seams that the center bars hang lower than my SLP's.
The UMI's are prettier, but my car is a daily driver and I'm more concerned with function than looks under there. Plus I plan on undercoating the rest of the under-body. Corrosion protection and sound deadening.
Here are some Pics from UMI's Website on Under-body shots of SFC's
Driver Side
http://www.umiperformance.com/images/2003b.jpg
Pass Side
http://www.umiperformance.com/images/2003c.jpg
I will add some side shots of my SLP's when I get them. For now here is a shot of the underside with SLP's. (Note: The black over-spray is Undercoating at attach points and where the SFC's touch the body)
Simply from a cost perspective I would go with the UMI's over the SLP's. UMI's are cheaper. I got my SLP's used for around $100. No contest.
Here are the side shots:
Pass Side:
Driver Side:
Have other under Body shots of LCA's, Tunnel Brace, SFC attach points, Panhard Bar. . ., and under hood with Hothkis STB if interested. Let me know, will post.Last edited by RainMan; 02-26-2006 at 08:26 AM.
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02-26-2006, 12:30 PM #15
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- commerce twp michigan
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Today, 12:10 PM #14
RainMan
Thay seem to hang fine thanks.
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04-20-2006, 08:11 AM #16
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
- Location
- murillo, ontario, canada
- Posts
- 63
silver- 2002 TA WS6 A4-Vert
ah man, I know I need them, but I didn't know you would actually be able to see them, (probably a girl thing) which ones are best for a vert? I've been hearing kenny brown or slp, is there any on the market that are less visible? I can't go to the track anymore without a roll bar anyways, but it would be nice for the mustangs at the red lights. lol
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04-20-2006, 08:14 AM #17
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- Aug 2005
- Location
- Commerce Ga
- Age
- 47
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- 4,994
Black, Blue- 07 TBSS, 07 GSXR1000
I went with Aadco boxed weld in. I got them brand new for $80. Gotta love working at Year One.
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