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Sub Frame connectors

This is a discussion on Sub Frame connectors within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; So I want to buy some subframe connectors. Any one have anything to say about a brand in particular? Is ...

  1. #1
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    2002 WS6 Convertible

    Sub Frame connectors

    So I want to buy some subframe connectors.
    Any one have anything to say about a brand in particular?
    Is one better than another?
    Weld on versus bolt on?
    With bolt on will I have to drill the frame or use existing holes?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    bolt on you can use existing holes, UMI is a great brand thats what i have, personally i would rather not weld anything to my car so i went with bolt ons. Unless you plan on having MASSIVE hp, the bolts arent going to break. Now its just a matter of 3-point vs 2-point.

  3. #3
    Senior Member TransAm11973's Avatar
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    3-point weld on...end of story

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    If you get weld ons do they hinder you when you have to work on something underneath?

  5. #5
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmemastr View Post
    So I want to buy some subframe connectors.
    Any one have anything to say about a brand in particular?
    Is one better than another?
    Weld on versus bolt on?
    With bolt on will I have to drill the frame or use existing holes?
    Thanks
    If you don't know anyone who knows how weld, bolt-ons. Especially if your not driving a crazy modded car. You can always weld them down the road if you feel it necessary, if you have a lift. No lift needed for the bolt ons.

    3 point all day.

  6. #6
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    Arctic White
    2001 WS.6

    3 point UMI. Look great, fit even better.

  7. #7
    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    U need to install them on a loaded lift, personally I went with bolt ons for 2 reasons, one i dont like anything welded to my car, and 2 u can always bolt them on and put a few spot welds, i can almost 100% guarentee they arent going anywhere unless your making crazy power

  8. #8
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    http://http://www.ls1.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=119417

    I asked the same question a while back

  9. #9
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    weld-ins are better. not by a huge amount, but if you plan on keeping your car for a while why not. you can still remove weld-ins if you really want. i bought mine used.

    as far as interfering with anything under the car, they won't. supposedly they get in the way of one of the STS rear-mount turbo pipes but that's not all that common of an issue. if you get boxed you then have an extended jacking point which is very nice.

  10. #10
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    dk green
    1998 z28

    Anybody on here get a good deal on a set of 3 point weld in?

  11. #11
    Member Rob Mellinger's Avatar
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    I got weld in umi 2 pt, made a huge diffrence. Fabricator by trade, weld in is the only to go.

  12. #12
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TransAm11973 View Post
    3-point weld on...end of story
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Mellinger View Post
    I got weld in umi 2 pt, made a huge diffrence. Fabricator by trade, weld in is the only to go.
    explain

  13. #13
    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    supposedly weld ons are stronger and the welds wont break.......personally unless you have a car putting over 500 hp the bolts arent going to break either, and even at 500 hp its a stretch for the bolts to break.......i say bolts with spot welds if you really feel the need to weld em in there

  14. #14
    LSwut tep98ws6's Avatar
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    Arctic White & Black
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    3-point UMI ... love them. bolt on for now, weld on later when more power is added

  15. #15
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    2 point bolt-in UMI's -- they fit perfectly and tuck up under the car nice. The whole install took just over 30 minutes.

  16. #16
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    3 point if you EVER plan on running a tunnel braced torque arm.

    Otherwise a set of 2 points is perfectly fine.



    WELD-IN ONLY!!!
    The bolts won't break, that is very true.
    But they will shift. And they aren't as rigid as the weld-in variety.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    The bolts won't break, that is very true.
    But they will shift. And they aren't as rigid as the weld-in variety.

    ^^ Agreed. It does appear that the bolt-in set could very easily be welded down the road. Not sure if there is any real difference in mounting points between the bolt-in and weld-in.

  18. #18
    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    I went with 3 point bolt on UMI. I will eventally weld them in. They tuck nice easy install

  19. #19
    Member Rob Mellinger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    3 point if you EVER plan on running a tunnel braced torque arm.

    Otherwise a set of 2 points is perfectly fine.



    WELD-IN ONLY!!!
    The bolts won't break, that is very true.
    But they will shift. And they aren't as rigid as the weld-in variety.
    Thats what I meant.

  20. #20
    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    I went with the 3 point UMI bolt in set up. Got the Chassis stiffening package from sam that included the UMI STB. After lowering I have come to realize that the SFC's act as a sort of sacrifice to the road gods when you try to drive over things. better to smash a replaceable bar than to smash your floorpan! Can't say the same for the 2 point bars since they tuck in real nice and invisible like. though I haven't had much issue with my 3 points. make the car a lot more solid feeling.
    Magnaflow cat back, adj KYB's, 3 point SFC's, STB, LCA reloc, adj LCA's, SLP lid, Fernco bellows, Strano Springs, Drag Bags, Tick adj Master cylinder, Monster stage3 clutch, speed bleeder, Billet flywheel, MGW shifter, !CAGS

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