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Thread: Stock springs

  1. #1
    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Stock springs

    Hey guys, My cars suspension has been sqeaking alot and I think the problem is the springs. I really dont want to get lowering springs so is there any aftermarket stock size springs? And if there is not when i install the lowering springs do I need adjustable lower control arms or will any aftermarket lca work?

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    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Do you have sub-frame connectors? If not, those could tighten up the chassis and possibly get rid of a lot of those squeaks you are hearing.

    I don't know about the springs, but if you are lowering the car, it is advisable to get relocation brackets for the LCA's. Depending on how much you lower (most are around 1.25" drop I think), this changes the suspension's geometry. By lowering your vehicle you are changing the LCA angle allowing the rear mounting point to sit higher than the front. The reloc bracket corrects for this. It will also shift the rear end to one side (adjustable PHB).

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    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    No I dont have subframe connectors yet but my suspension mods are next.

    So I should be ok with UMI lca's with lowering springs I just need relocation brackets and adjustable PHB?

    Do you know what brand sells the least drop for springs?

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    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Strano's are 1.2" drop I believe. Not sure on the others. Well, technically lowering will change your pinion angle too, so an adjustable torque arm would correct for that. Lowering pretty much changes the geometry of every suspension component...I would say an adjustable PHB and LCA with relocation brackets is a good way to go.

    Get SFC's!! Probably should be your first suspension mod IMO.

  5. #5
    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Strano's are 1.2" drop I believe. Not sure on the others. Well, technically lowering will change your pinion angle too, so an adjustable torque arm would correct for that. Lowering pretty much changes the geometry of every suspension component...I would say an adjustable PHB and LCA with relocation brackets is a good way to go.

    Get SFC's!! Probably should be your first suspension mod IMO.
    so would I need relocation brackets with strano springs or are they still necessary?

  6. #6
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    IMO, even without lowering, LCA relocation brackets help with traction. Therefore, they are even more important when lowering the car.

  7. #7
    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Alright so are the relocation brackets hard to install (or weld in)?

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    You need to grease the muffler bearings and add some blinker fluid...

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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    You need to grease the muffler bearings and add some blinker fluid...

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    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1_ws6 View Post
    Alright so are the relocation brackets hard to install (or weld in)?
    Get them welded in. I wouldn't recommend any other way.

  11. #11
    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Get them welded in. I wouldn't recommend any other way.
    Cool Thanks man

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    The Silver Bullet LS1_ws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    You need to grease the muffler bearings and add some blinker fluid...

    Wow didnt know there was idots in this forum

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    freshly greased muff bearings and topping off the blinker fluid got me a extra 20 horses

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    Member xmarkx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjsingle1 View Post
    freshly greased muff bearings and topping off the blinker fluid got me a extra 20 horses
    you didn't do the instal right then, bro! I got 25 rwhp on the dyno after I greased my muff bearings

  15. #15
    Member xmarkx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Get them welded in. I wouldn't recommend any other way.
    what's the downside of bolt ons?

  16. #16
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xmarkx View Post
    what's the downside of bolt ons?
    They can shift and sometimes cause the bolt holes to become elongated. Welding them creates a very solid connection front to rear etc....
    :\Users\Steven\Pictures\d6ftg5nh.gif


    Suggestion: If you are particularly irritated by another member's posting habits and are constantly fighting the urge to flame them, you can click on that person's profile, and select "Add to ignore list." This will make that person's posts invisible to you.

  17. #17
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xmarkx View Post
    what's the downside of bolt ons?
    Almost every mfg I have ever seen that provides them recommends them to be welded in. My guess would be bolts coming loose. I've never personally seen a set-up with them bolted in so I don't even know how that would work or look like for that matter.

    Just seem Smittro's reply as I was typing this...

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    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    I bought bolt in LCA brackets and then just added a few welds. I prefer bolt ons like the SFc's Mine are bolted on and a few weld beads here and there for added strength and easier to remove later for anything that may happen just have to grind a few weld beads and then unbolt. I have my car lowered with BMR springs and regular LCA and none adj panhard. Have an adj to put in but you cant tell it's not straight if the axle is shifted. Will get around to installing the adj. panhard and lca's again later. I had some UMI non adj laying around and I was in a rush and didn't have time to adj. everything.
    1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1_ws6 View Post

    Wow didnt know there was idots in this forum
    I r #1 IJIT!!!!

    Weld in SFC's are the only way to go.
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    Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!

  20. #20
    Member xmarkx's Avatar
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    can you weld the bolt ons after installing them?

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