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starting my list for suspension parts, any help welcome

This is a discussion on starting my list for suspension parts, any help welcome within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Unless you can weld, you may have difficulty getting a shop to weld the SFCs on. The ones I've spoken ...

  1. #41
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Unless you can weld, you may have difficulty getting a shop to weld the SFCs on. The ones I've spoken to don't want the liability. Bolt ons ought to be fine in the meantime... just be sure they are properly torqued.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Unless you can weld, you may have difficulty getting a shop to weld the SFCs on. The ones I've spoken to don't want the liability. Bolt ons ought to be fine in the meantime... just be sure they are properly torqued.
    ok thanks,
    might be worth asking around at different shops to see if any do it, before buying the weld ones.
    If not just having the bolt on ones would be better than nothing for sure, from the way it sounds

    Thanks a bunch yall for taking the time to answer my questions, it means a lot

    ASh
    2002 auto T/A custom blue, Moser 9in rear end with 31 spline axle and 3.73 gears, Diablo Sport InTune, SLP LM1 catback, SLP lid & bellow, ram air free mod, eibach pro kit springs, bilstein hd shocks, bmr rear sway bar, bmr 2pt SFC bolt on, silver checker stripes 17x9.5 C5 Vette rims.

  3. #43
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    98 Z28 Vert M6

    You can always weld the bolt ones on later, too.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    You can always weld the bolt ones on later, too.
    I was thinking of that, now the question on the sub-frame connectors
    I see both BMR and UMI offer just a single one bolt-one for around $200 give or take
    I then see UMI offers a 3 point one for close to $400
    I then see BMR offers a 4 point one for close to $400

    If i'm wrong on prices, sorry just going from what I remember.

    Anyways the question is I'm guessing the 3 point is better than the other one and the 4 point is better than the 3 point.

    Now the question is, does the 3 point or 4 point get in the way of Headers and mid-pipe?
    I have a reliable source car find that talked to me about doing OBX LT's and catted mid-pipe
    He has been very trust worthy on everything he ever told me so for the cost of the OBX vs Kooks and close to the same hp/tq gain I think I'll go with OBX.

    Just trying to see if the sub-frame connectors get in the way with the exhaust, I do not want to mess with having to alter stuff like that unless it was a must and just get the box-in sub-frame and go from there. not looking to make it a straight up track car, fun driving street ride

    ASh

  5. #45
    Subframe connectors tend to not interfere with exhaust, regardless of configuration. Of course if you do something crazy it could but in general, no problems.

    We like 3pt when using a tunnel mounted torque arm. I usually tell customers there's are bigger difference between no SFC's and 2pt than there is between 2vs3vs4pt. We haven't looked into 4pt yet as our 3's are pretty popular and successful across the industry.

    ramey
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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by UMI Sales View Post
    Subframe connectors tend to not interfere with exhaust, regardless of configuration. Of course if you do something crazy it could but in general, no problems.

    We like 3pt when using a tunnel mounted torque arm. I usually tell customers there's are bigger difference between no SFC's and 2pt than there is between 2vs3vs4pt. We haven't looked into 4pt yet as our 3's are pretty popular and successful across the industry.

    ramey
    Thanks for chiming in, I was curious, as I've stated before, that I've been a mustang guy and for most part mainly used Steeda and Maximum Motorsports for my 01 mustang and 04 mach 1, but with my 2013 GT I used a lot of BMR stuff.
    To be honest this is really my first hearing about UMI since getting my T/A
    I'm planning on LT's and nothing else really crazy under there
    Also I was looking at your guys adj PHB and lower control arm package,
    The car has 112K on it and just figure its time to change out some of the old stock stuff with new stuff, even if just replacing with new bushings should help.

    ASh

  7. #47
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    Got a couple emails back from BMR and the guy stated that for what i'm wanting the SFC for, the 2point would work best, that their 4pt one would just be over kill for what i'm wanting SFC for. I am grateful to hear them tell the truth and not just say yes you need that, when really its over kill, IMO builds trust

    ASh

  8. #48
    I tried to reply but LS1.com was down for some reason? Anyway, I agree. 2pt is a lot better than 0 point for sure.

  9. #49
    Junior Member 99ss405's Avatar
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    metco lower control arms ... centered ...50/50 lake wood rear shocks .. coi over front struts a good subframe conector ... mine also connects side to side and drive shaft loop


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    Quote Originally Posted by UMI Sales View Post
    I tried to reply but LS1.com was down for some reason? Anyway, I agree. 2pt is a lot better than 0 point for sure.
    I understand, yeap I couldn't get on,
    for what I am wanting would just replacement lower control arms and a adj PHB work good
    Also on the front swaybar, which way would be best, just replacing to new bushings or getting a whole new front sway-bar?

    ASh

  11. #51
    Junior Member 99ss405's Avatar
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    is this for drag racing ? if so larger front sway is a waste

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99ss405 View Post
    is this for drag racing ? if so larger front sway is a waste
    This is mainly street riding car, but will from time to time go to the drag and probably never go on corner track.
    I know a few guys take their front sway bar off because theirs is mainly drag car, but mine is more street than anything, but nothing crazy

    ASh

  13. #53
    Junior Member 99ss405's Avatar
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    I run reg front sway ... slow car 10.60's

  14. #54
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    I went ahead and just ordered replacement bushing and end links for stock swaybar and call it good I

    ASh

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99ss405 View Post
    I run reg front sway ... slow car 10.60's
    Sounds very slow, lol
    I have swap springs on a few different mustangs and I am feeling lazy i guess. Might see how much a shop would charge to just put front springs and shocks on and I'll mess with the rear.

    ASh

  16. #56
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    do you have access to the mwr shop on base?


    You could go there and do in a couple of hours and have the proper tools. I did it at home and let's just say I wish I had the ability to compress the spring with a press vs with a rent tool form Autozone. It would have gone so much faster. Back springs are easy as hell. Takes longer to remove the carpet and body panels then it does to remove the shocks. Front different story.

  17. #57
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    I am sure ft hood has one, like I said done a few spring changes in my day and just feeling lazy.
    I got all the tools need, but the compressor.
    I will probably do it myself lol
    I just know how fun the front is going to be

    ASh

  18. #58
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    Sway bars are more for handling and controlling the side-to-side motion (aka body roll) of a vehicle than it is for straight-line driving....so whether you have a 15 sec car, or 9 sec car, it doesn't matter much IMO.
    It's on jackstands.

  19. #59
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    ASh,

    I'd recommend beefing up the front sway bar (and rear). I did a hollow 35mm/22mm and it made the car so much better. Cornering was much flatter on the twisty roads.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    ASh,

    I'd recommend beefing up the front sway bar (and rear). I did a hollow 35mm/22mm and it made the car so much better. Cornering was much flatter on the twisty roads.
    Thanks, I am going to replace the bushings/endlinks for right now and see how it feels. If I still believe I need it a little more stiffer, I'll go with a new front sway bar and call it a day

    ASh

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