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Thread: Sometimes all ya need....
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08-15-2009, 12:42 PM #1
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
Sometimes all ya need....
Is for someone to tell you they CAN'T do something just to get you in gear to do it yourself.
I bought 3 point bolt in SFC's and figured i'd never get the car suspended properly to install them myself so I called a reputable performance minded mechanic who used to drag race firebirds. I asked if he had a roll on lift to install my SFC's and he said no. I asked if the speed shop near him had one and he said no. He claimed to never have had problems just holding the car by the chassis and installing SFC's but wasn't sure if the same would hold true on T-tops.
That was all I needed to hear. I decided I wasn't going on a wild goose chase to install these things I'd just do it myself. i set up my ramps and used a level to see if the driveway was level for this job, it was. i jacked up the rear and set the chassis on jackstands. basically following the instructions included with the SFC's.... made sure the rear LCA's were level with the ground and the bolt up went smoothly from there. then i jacked the rear up till it was off the jackstands and set the axle on jackstands so the suspension was loaded. tightened it all up and mission accomplished.
What I want to know is, if I could load the suspension and install the SFC's myself why couldn't a well established mechanic in a shop do the same... In the end I'm happier I did it myself though. Saved some money and got some great experience.
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08-15-2009, 12:47 PM #2
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- May 2007
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Bright Red- 1999 Trans Am Ws6
Better question is why did you bolt them on...weld ftw!!
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08-15-2009, 12:57 PM #3
SFC are useless on F-bodys...
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08-15-2009, 01:08 PM #4
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08-15-2009, 01:11 PM #5
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Black- 383 Procharged & N20 Vert
Black 1999 Blown Convertible A4
Forged 383 | ATI D-1SC
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Black 2009 Escalade Hybrid 4WD
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08-15-2009, 01:16 PM #6
That magazine article, from like 18months - 2 years ago, some guys researched the frame structure of the subframe used on F-bodies and all sorts of tests showed that all the subframes on the market did not help the tensile strength or rigidity of the cars subframe. None of the makers bothered to change the design at all, thats why you'll find "cosmetic use" in fine print somewhere on the packaging for any recent subframes for these cars.
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08-15-2009, 01:17 PM #7
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- Feb 2006
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- Seattle..Land of Constant Rain..
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Red Fire- 2007 Mustang GT/CS
Dunno about that ...
I did SFC's and a STB..Made a big difference in how my 01 SS felt going around corners..
PERHAPS it was all in my head.. but I installed them at 48k miles..
and when I got rid of it my SS had 136k.. Not a squeak in the car..
and yup, it had T-Tops..
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08-15-2009, 01:18 PM #8
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08-15-2009, 01:20 PM #9
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08-15-2009, 01:24 PM #10
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08-15-2009, 01:25 PM #11
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Light Pewter Metallic- y2k 8-cylinder catfish
That reminds me. I need to get mine installed soon. They've just been laying around in the garage.
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08-15-2009, 01:26 PM #12
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
A very good mod indeed. I noticed the difference in quality right away. every time I get into my bird I say why can't it feel as "good" as my saturn. That SC2 with KYB GR2's has to have one of the best rides i've ever felt. and the STB made a BIG diff on that car. But the bird was a creaky mean muscle car ride. after the AGX's it still felt flexy and twisty. after the SFC's the car has that rigidity and solidness that I felt it was lacking. All it needs now is attention on the front end... tie rod ends and maybe a ball joint. I am so far very happy with the feel of the SFC's and all I can think off now is adding HP to offset the weight of these things, THEY ARE BEEFY!!!!
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08-15-2009, 06:15 PM #13
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- Nov 2008
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- harrisburg pa.
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black- 02 vette vert
they dont help the tensile strength or rigidity of a cars subframe, they tie the front and rear subframes together solidly instead of the floorpan being part of the structural strength of the chassis. or maybe more correctly, relieve the floorpan from being the only tie for structural rigidity.
Last edited by dklowrider; 08-15-2009 at 06:18 PM.
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08-16-2009, 05:56 AM #14
I have seen guys play on that same article twist thier cars at the drag strip when they build 500 or more rear wheel hp. I question them and no "They tested that and it is not true" They didn't twist them real bad but bad enough to have to have them pulled on a frame stretcher. Useually required some body work too.
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08-16-2009, 06:03 AM #15
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Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
precisely why i'm getting the suspension and chassis work out of the way first. What good is a fast car if i'm gonna break it whenever I drive it?
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08-16-2009, 06:35 PM #16
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08-16-2009, 08:57 PM #17
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
SFC's I noticed a HUGE difference with.
I noticed NONE with a STB. Will never put one back on the car.
As for bolt on chassis twist....use the rearend to lift, put the rear on ramps.
Lift front using a block of wood and the k-member. Should keep twist down to a minimum.
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08-16-2009, 10:11 PM #18
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- Oct 2007
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- hixson tennessee
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white- 94 camaro z28
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