so i wanna lower it...but i've heard there's more than jsut springs

**third_shift|studios** · 12-07-2005, 06:49 AM

I would like to lower my ws.6. I've seen other posts where you can buy springs and shocks and you're done. But i've heard from a friend that you need other suspension parts such as adj. panhard, adj. torque arm, adj. lower control arms, different K memebers...what's the deal?! is one for looks and the other performance?

Lets say i was gonna do it right-looks and performance. what does my build list look like? what does my cost look like? Does application mean a lot? I just want a lowered car that cruises smooth on the highway and i won't use it on a rally course or track. But i'd like to know that i can zip over some whindy back roads and not fear my car will twist apart.

sorry for the long winded post but i just want to do it right.
_jaison

**BIG D's SS** · 12-07-2005, 06:54 AM

The only thing you have to have is an adju panhard. It will amke the car sit higher on 1 side without it. Everything else is just high end luxories that do compliment it but not necessary.

Eric @ DMS · 12-07-2005, 08:24 AM

It can come down to what you want to do with the car. If you're looking to just get a lower stance, than springs will obviously do it. Keep in mind that any type of lowering springs will significantly wear your stock Decarbons out faster compared to stock springs. With that, many update shocks either at the same time or shortly thereafter. I've known many to run lowering springs and stock shocks for over 20,000 miles. In one instance, I wanted to do some testing so I installed our springs on one of our F-bodies and kept the stock shocks for roughly 13,000-15,000 miles or so. The ride got noticeably rougher as the higher miles started packing in.

You'll also want to do an adj panhard rod. Lowering your vehicle will throw off the rear center geometry slightly. This isn't anything detrimental per se, but you'll want to eventually correct it with the Adj panhard.

For the bare minimum, to lower your car, you'll be set if you do springs, panhard and then shocks. IMO.

Drop me an email or PM and I'll be happy to answer any further questions.

Eric

**third_shift|studios** · 12-07-2005, 09:30 AM

this is great, thank you both so much for clearifying...eric, i have sent you a PM.

**00SSVERT** · 12-07-2005, 11:10 AM

Originally Posted by BIG D's SS

The only thing you have to have is an adju panhard. It will amke the car sit higher on 1 side without it. Everything else is just high end luxories that do compliment it but not necessary.

Won't set higher, just needed to recenter the diff so the tire doesn't hit the fender on the right side. At least that is all that happened on mine, I still haven't changed the panhard but if I go any wider than the 275's I will need to.

**jdearles** · 12-07-2005, 05:35 PM

LCA relocation brackets will help get rid of the wheel hop you may experience when the tires begin to spin. I never had wheel hop until I lowered the car...if you are doing LCA relocation brackets might as well do the LCA's too. Does not have to be all at once but get used to the wheel hop until you correct some of the geometry that lowering will cause.

**third_shift|studios** · 12-07-2005, 07:15 PM

i have custom LCA's actually..i'm not familiar with the brackets, but the guy who made the LCA's for my car did an impecable job.

Eric @ DMS · 12-08-2005, 01:49 PM

Brackets are used in conjunction with LCAs. They're offered referred to as LCA Brackets.

**third_shift|studios** · 12-08-2005, 05:09 PM

eric, i need you to reply to my email, man!

**Senator** · 12-10-2005, 08:54 AM

I had a really bad wheel hop problem on my first car - ruined 3 sets of rear end gears as a result. Very expensive. The car was lowered from Mecham when the car was new, so I never drove it with the stock ride height. That car needed LCA brackets, torque arm and heavy duty LCAs to solve the problem.

On my new one I transferred the suspension parts mentioned, and added a Moser 12 bolt to assure no problems EVER.

Lowering can get expensive if you don't at least go with LCAs, and brackets (on the frame conectors) and be ready to go with a torque arm, if the problem is not solved. Either that or replace the rear end gears every 20k or so at $1000 a pop.

Good Luck!

Regards,
Darden

**02z28ls1** · 12-11-2005, 06:14 AM

There is also another consideration-on the front end you will want to use the tie-rod correction pieces(goes on the outer tie rods ) to prevent bump steering problems.Bump steer occurs when going over bumps,the car will want to dart to one side.Also a good alignment man can reset your alignment to either a performance handling set-up or a smooth riding one depending on your needs.